On May 15th of 2005, my soul-mate, Kallee, passed away in her sleep. She and I had been together for 13 yrs. She died on a Sunday. The man I had been with for close to 15 yrs. was kind enough to let me bury her on his farm. My husband now, went with me to dig her grave and bury her. As I sat with her body, wrapped in her favorite blanket, I looked around. She was being buried along with many other animals that had belonged to his family.
Like me, his family, and him, loved animals and wanted to bury them with dignity and in a familiar surrounding. When I became a member of his family, we purchased a beautiful Rottweiler named Cratty's Von Maxwell, or Max for short. Max was not my first dog, however. My parents loved Dalmations and I grew up with 3 of them.
The female, my father named Taryton, after the cigarette, because she had a black patch over one eye, died in 1982. Kenny,(my ex), buried her in the backyard of his mother's house. In 1983, we purchased Max. Helen, (my mother-in law), deeded the property where she grew up, on Homestead Rd., across from the Jenkins Plantation, in the Powell Wetlands on Rt. 2, Lesage, WV, to Kenny.
Max was diagnosed with bladder cancer and had to be euthenized in 1992. He became the first member of the cemetery. In this private cemetery, there is a Llama, 2 pygmy goats, a miniature horse, another Rottie, named Ralph, and a mix called Mikey. Kallee was the last to be buried there. Burying an animal on your property, as far as I am concerned, is the ultimate last show of love.
Pet cemeteries that offer burial or cremation services are a fabulous idea. This gives people that don't have the property to bury their beloved pet on, a means of showing that last bit of love and respect to their pets. I know many people feel that animals don't need a funeral. To those people I say, "you obviously have never owned a pet. Because if you had, you would not feel that way."
Kallee and Tamara
A Beautiful Summer Day.
Madam Kallee, CTD, CGC - 1994-2005 - Certified Therapy Dog and a Canine Good Citizen
I am so pretty!
Kallee, T.D.I., CGC - Certified Therapy Dog and a Canine Good Citizen - 1994-2005
I loved to pose for the camera.
Hat Girl.
The things I do for my mom!
Happiness.
Bubby knows how to scratch a tummy.
Best of Friends.
Mine! No, Mine!, No Mine!!!
Whew !
Bubby wears me out!
This is the Life.
Just relaxing with bubby.
Kallee and Mr. Monkey
See Mr. Monkey? Wanna play?
Miss Cool.
I loved to wear my shades.
Saturday, December 29, 2007
Friday, December 21, 2007
Slain Marine's Dog Adopted By His Family.
ALBANY, Ga. (AP) — A military working dog wounded in Iraq during a rocket attack that killed its Marine handler was adopted Friday by the slain Marine’s family. The adoption of Lex, an 8-year-old German Shepherd, by the family of fallen Marine Cpl. Dustin Lee marked the first time the U.S. military has granted early retirement to a working dog so it could live with a former handler’s family, officials said.
“Nobody can do anything to replace the void in this family,” said Col. Christian Haliday, commander of the Marine Corps Logistics Base in Albany, where Lee and Lex were assigned. “We hope Lex can bring a small piece of his spirit and help maintain his memory.” On hand for the ceremony at the base were the Marine’s parents, Jerome and Rachael Lee, his sister, Mattie, 16, and brother, Cameron, 12, of Quitman, Miss.
“It’s not going to bring back my brother, but it’s something close to it,” said Mattie Lee as she played with Lex after the ceremony. Lee’s family planned to take the bomb-sniffing dog home on Saturday. Military officials initially told the family that Lex had another two years of service before he could be adopted.
But the family lobbied for months — even enlisting the aid of a North Carolina congressman — and the adoption came exactly nine months after the 20-year-old Marine was killed and his dog wounded on March 21 in Iraq’s Anbar Province. 2nd Lt. Caleb Eames, spokesman for the Albany base, said Lee and Lex were sitting outside at a forward operating base in Karmah when they were hit by shrapnel from a 73mm rocket explosion.
“A part of Dustin is in Lex,” said the fallen Marine’s father. “To have Lex at home is a part of having Dustin at home.” Rachael Lee said she believes her son’s spirit will live on through the dog because of their close bond and because they were together during the final moments of her son’s life. “It was blood on blood,” she said. “We can’t get Dustin back, but we have Lex.”
While Marines tried to treat Lee’s wounds, another dog handler was sent to take Lex for treatment, said Staff Sgt. Dana Brown, the regional kennel master for the pair in Iraq. “Lex, from my understanding, was kind of laying on him or near him, protecting him,” Brown said in an interview from the Quantico Marine Base in Virginia. “He just didn’t want to leave him. He knew he belonged there and something was wrong.
Even though he was hurting, he knew he was supposed to stay by his handler.” Brown flew back with Lex to Camp Lejeune, N.C., where the dog’s wounds were treated and she accompanied Lex to Lee’s funeral in April. After 12 weeks of treatment for shrapnel wounds in the shoulder and back, Lex was declared fit for duty and returned to his permanent home at the Albany base.
Brown said Lee and Lex stood out among more than 40 bomb-sniffing dog teams under her supervision, and they performed so well she chose them and one other team to be embedded full-time with specialized units — a Marine reconnaissance unit in Lee’s case. It was Lex’s second tour in Iraq, the first with another handler. “He was cocky,” Brown said of Lee. “He knew he was good and he and his dog were unstoppable.”
Lee joined the Marines after graduating from high school in 2004. His father said his desire to become a dog handler came from the Marine’s mother, who worked with search-and-rescue dogs when Lee was a boy. After completing military police and dog handler training, Lee was assigned to the Albany base in southwestern Georgia. He adopted his first partner, Doenja, and sent him home to Mississippi last year when that 11-year-old dog began losing his sight and had to retire. “Lex is in wonderful shape,” said Eames. “He’s fully operational. His most important mission now is making this wonderful family very happy.”
“Nobody can do anything to replace the void in this family,” said Col. Christian Haliday, commander of the Marine Corps Logistics Base in Albany, where Lee and Lex were assigned. “We hope Lex can bring a small piece of his spirit and help maintain his memory.” On hand for the ceremony at the base were the Marine’s parents, Jerome and Rachael Lee, his sister, Mattie, 16, and brother, Cameron, 12, of Quitman, Miss.
“It’s not going to bring back my brother, but it’s something close to it,” said Mattie Lee as she played with Lex after the ceremony. Lee’s family planned to take the bomb-sniffing dog home on Saturday. Military officials initially told the family that Lex had another two years of service before he could be adopted.
But the family lobbied for months — even enlisting the aid of a North Carolina congressman — and the adoption came exactly nine months after the 20-year-old Marine was killed and his dog wounded on March 21 in Iraq’s Anbar Province. 2nd Lt. Caleb Eames, spokesman for the Albany base, said Lee and Lex were sitting outside at a forward operating base in Karmah when they were hit by shrapnel from a 73mm rocket explosion.
“A part of Dustin is in Lex,” said the fallen Marine’s father. “To have Lex at home is a part of having Dustin at home.” Rachael Lee said she believes her son’s spirit will live on through the dog because of their close bond and because they were together during the final moments of her son’s life. “It was blood on blood,” she said. “We can’t get Dustin back, but we have Lex.”
While Marines tried to treat Lee’s wounds, another dog handler was sent to take Lex for treatment, said Staff Sgt. Dana Brown, the regional kennel master for the pair in Iraq. “Lex, from my understanding, was kind of laying on him or near him, protecting him,” Brown said in an interview from the Quantico Marine Base in Virginia. “He just didn’t want to leave him. He knew he belonged there and something was wrong.
Even though he was hurting, he knew he was supposed to stay by his handler.” Brown flew back with Lex to Camp Lejeune, N.C., where the dog’s wounds were treated and she accompanied Lex to Lee’s funeral in April. After 12 weeks of treatment for shrapnel wounds in the shoulder and back, Lex was declared fit for duty and returned to his permanent home at the Albany base.
Brown said Lee and Lex stood out among more than 40 bomb-sniffing dog teams under her supervision, and they performed so well she chose them and one other team to be embedded full-time with specialized units — a Marine reconnaissance unit in Lee’s case. It was Lex’s second tour in Iraq, the first with another handler. “He was cocky,” Brown said of Lee. “He knew he was good and he and his dog were unstoppable.”
Lee joined the Marines after graduating from high school in 2004. His father said his desire to become a dog handler came from the Marine’s mother, who worked with search-and-rescue dogs when Lee was a boy. After completing military police and dog handler training, Lee was assigned to the Albany base in southwestern Georgia. He adopted his first partner, Doenja, and sent him home to Mississippi last year when that 11-year-old dog began losing his sight and had to retire. “Lex is in wonderful shape,” said Eames. “He’s fully operational. His most important mission now is making this wonderful family very happy.”
Rosie And Alex: A True Love Story.
MELBOURNE, Ark. — This Christmas, 5-year-old Alex Bennett has a new best friend. She plays with him, sleeps with him, calms him down when he becomes frustrated, protects him from danger and will soon be going to school with him, too. Rosie, the newest member of the Bennett household, is part lab, part retriever and, according to Alex’s mother Mandi Bennett, “all heart.”
Rosie is a service dog, specifically trained to work with autistic children. And she takes her job seriously. “Rosie is not quite a year old yet but she’s had extensive training,” Bennett said. “She went through her obedience training at a women’s prison and then she was trained to work with autistic children at an organization called 4 Paws for Ability.” The Ohio-based group trains service dogs to help children with disabilities and their families. Alex was diagnosed with autism in July 2006 and it was Mandi’s mother, Donna Adams, who first found out about service dogs.
“I was doing some research on autism on the Internet and I came across this Web site,” Adams explained. “4 Paws for Ability deals only with service dogs, not seeing-eye dogs. They train dogs in autism assistance, mobility assistance and seizure assistance as well as hearing and multipurpose assistance. “These dogs are just incredible,” she continued. “Some of them are trained to open the fridge, get clothes out of the dryer or even pick up the phone.” Others, like Rosie, are trained to help with the day-to-day problems that a child like Alex faces.
“I knew this would be an answer to our prayers,” Bennett said. “But there was no way I could afford a dog like that.” The price for a service dog can run anywhere from $10,000 to $15,000. “That’s when the community stepped in,” Adams said. “I can’t tell you just how grateful we are to everyone who helped make this possible for Alex. “People have been wonderful,” she continued. “They set up donation accounts at the bank and held benefit gospel concerts at the church. “Then we started getting letters and cards in the mail with money in them,” Bennett said.
“People would send $5, or $10, just because they’d heard about Alex and wanted to help. “I can’t put into words how that made us feel,” she added. The Mill Creek Coffee House in Melbourne even put some of Bennett’s handmade jewelry on display for sale. “We raised almost $500 that way,” she said. “This whole town has been great.” In November, the family was finally able to travel to Xenia, Ohio, to pick up Rosie. They participated in training and tracking exercises every day for two weeks.
“The biggest worry for me is the safety issue,” Bennett said. “Alex loves to run and play but he has no concept of the road or the cars speeding by. “I’ve always been afraid he is going to get outside and end up hurt or lost,” she added with a sigh. But now, thanks to Rosie, some of that worry has been lifted. “During the tracking exercises in Ohio she (Rosie) found him 100 percent of the time,” Bennett said proudly. “She found him in the woods, in the snow and even in a crowded mall.
“When Rosie wears the special harness and Alex is tethered to her, he actually has more freedom,” she continued. “I don’t have to keep a death grip on him when we go out, or go shopping. If there’s a dangerous situation she will lay down and not move. “If she’s not moving, he’s not moving,” she added. “You have no idea what a relief that is for me.” The exact cause for autism remains a mystery, although symptoms can easily be detected during childhood. The word autism comes from the Greek word meaning “self.”
It’s a fitting name for a disease that causes problems in areas of development such as verbal communication and social interactions. Those with the ailment will not socialize with others, tend to avoid eye contact and seem to retreat into their own private world. In some situations, autistic children like Alex will develop repetitive routines or even exhibit uncontrolled behavior in the form of yelling or crying. That is another area that Rosie helps out in. She has been trained to provide behavior disruption and pressure therapy.
“Because Alex doesn’t speak he tends to get easily frustrated,” Bennett said. “So when he starts to get really agitated, Rosie will go nuzzle him or she will lay her head and paw in his lap to calm him down. “It provides a distraction and stops the behavior,” she said. Bennett and Adams agree the best part of the whole experience for them has been watching Alex and Rosie bond. “He just loves her — there’s no other way to say it,” Bennett said. “It’s something to see him come out of that shell and to smile. ... He even started saying ’Mama’ again,” she added softly. Alex attends preschool at the Child and Youth Pediatric Day Clinic in Batesville, and pretty soon Rosie will be enrolling, too.
“We just want to give her a little time to adjust to her new home first,” Bennett said. “He’ll graduate in May and then he’ll be ready to go to kindergarten at a public school” she continued. “That is what really terrifies me and I know it will be scary for him, too. “But this gives me some measure of peace about the situation,” she added, rubbing Rosie’s ears. “Nothing is as scary when you have your best friend with you.”
Rosie is a service dog, specifically trained to work with autistic children. And she takes her job seriously. “Rosie is not quite a year old yet but she’s had extensive training,” Bennett said. “She went through her obedience training at a women’s prison and then she was trained to work with autistic children at an organization called 4 Paws for Ability.” The Ohio-based group trains service dogs to help children with disabilities and their families. Alex was diagnosed with autism in July 2006 and it was Mandi’s mother, Donna Adams, who first found out about service dogs.
“I was doing some research on autism on the Internet and I came across this Web site,” Adams explained. “4 Paws for Ability deals only with service dogs, not seeing-eye dogs. They train dogs in autism assistance, mobility assistance and seizure assistance as well as hearing and multipurpose assistance. “These dogs are just incredible,” she continued. “Some of them are trained to open the fridge, get clothes out of the dryer or even pick up the phone.” Others, like Rosie, are trained to help with the day-to-day problems that a child like Alex faces.
“I knew this would be an answer to our prayers,” Bennett said. “But there was no way I could afford a dog like that.” The price for a service dog can run anywhere from $10,000 to $15,000. “That’s when the community stepped in,” Adams said. “I can’t tell you just how grateful we are to everyone who helped make this possible for Alex. “People have been wonderful,” she continued. “They set up donation accounts at the bank and held benefit gospel concerts at the church. “Then we started getting letters and cards in the mail with money in them,” Bennett said.
“People would send $5, or $10, just because they’d heard about Alex and wanted to help. “I can’t put into words how that made us feel,” she added. The Mill Creek Coffee House in Melbourne even put some of Bennett’s handmade jewelry on display for sale. “We raised almost $500 that way,” she said. “This whole town has been great.” In November, the family was finally able to travel to Xenia, Ohio, to pick up Rosie. They participated in training and tracking exercises every day for two weeks.
“The biggest worry for me is the safety issue,” Bennett said. “Alex loves to run and play but he has no concept of the road or the cars speeding by. “I’ve always been afraid he is going to get outside and end up hurt or lost,” she added with a sigh. But now, thanks to Rosie, some of that worry has been lifted. “During the tracking exercises in Ohio she (Rosie) found him 100 percent of the time,” Bennett said proudly. “She found him in the woods, in the snow and even in a crowded mall.
“When Rosie wears the special harness and Alex is tethered to her, he actually has more freedom,” she continued. “I don’t have to keep a death grip on him when we go out, or go shopping. If there’s a dangerous situation she will lay down and not move. “If she’s not moving, he’s not moving,” she added. “You have no idea what a relief that is for me.” The exact cause for autism remains a mystery, although symptoms can easily be detected during childhood. The word autism comes from the Greek word meaning “self.”
It’s a fitting name for a disease that causes problems in areas of development such as verbal communication and social interactions. Those with the ailment will not socialize with others, tend to avoid eye contact and seem to retreat into their own private world. In some situations, autistic children like Alex will develop repetitive routines or even exhibit uncontrolled behavior in the form of yelling or crying. That is another area that Rosie helps out in. She has been trained to provide behavior disruption and pressure therapy.
“Because Alex doesn’t speak he tends to get easily frustrated,” Bennett said. “So when he starts to get really agitated, Rosie will go nuzzle him or she will lay her head and paw in his lap to calm him down. “It provides a distraction and stops the behavior,” she said. Bennett and Adams agree the best part of the whole experience for them has been watching Alex and Rosie bond. “He just loves her — there’s no other way to say it,” Bennett said. “It’s something to see him come out of that shell and to smile. ... He even started saying ’Mama’ again,” she added softly. Alex attends preschool at the Child and Youth Pediatric Day Clinic in Batesville, and pretty soon Rosie will be enrolling, too.
“We just want to give her a little time to adjust to her new home first,” Bennett said. “He’ll graduate in May and then he’ll be ready to go to kindergarten at a public school” she continued. “That is what really terrifies me and I know it will be scary for him, too. “But this gives me some measure of peace about the situation,” she added, rubbing Rosie’s ears. “Nothing is as scary when you have your best friend with you.”
Thursday, December 20, 2007
QUESTION: How Much Cold Weather Is Too Much For A Dog?
The answer is different for each dog but in general cold weather should bring about extra caution in all dog owners. Here are some general guidelines to consider if you live in snowy & icy climates:
Jagged ice, frozen plant stems, and sidewalk salt are sharp and can cut your dog's footpads. Snow can also collect on the hair between the pads, sometimes forming icy balls that cause pain and injury. Trimming the long hair from the bottoms of the feet may help prevent this. Always check your dog's feet after he's been out in snow. Thoroughly wipe off your dog's legs and stomach when he comes in from out of the sleet, snow or ice.
He can ingest salt, antifreeze or other potentially dangerous chemicals while licking his paws. Avoid letting your dog off the leash on snow or ice, especially during a snowstorm, dogs can lose their scent and easily become lost. More dogs are lost during the winter than during any other season, so make sure yours always wears ID tags. Even in more moderate climate zones, keep the following in mind: Be particularly gentle with elderly and arthritic pets as cold weather can leave their joints extremely stiff and tender.
Stay directly below these pets when they are climbing stairs or jumping onto furniture and consider modifying their environment to make it easier for them to get around. Never leave your dog alone in a car during the winter. It can act as a refrigerator, holding in the cold and causing the animal to freeze to death. Keep in mind that a regular outside dog in cold weather will need a quarter to a third more food than he needs in warm weather in order to generate enough body heat.
Adjust their meals accordingly. Go ahead and put that sweater on Princess, if she'll put up with it. It will help a little, but where pets lose most of their body heat is from the pads of their feet, their ears, and their respiratory tract.
Jagged ice, frozen plant stems, and sidewalk salt are sharp and can cut your dog's footpads. Snow can also collect on the hair between the pads, sometimes forming icy balls that cause pain and injury. Trimming the long hair from the bottoms of the feet may help prevent this. Always check your dog's feet after he's been out in snow. Thoroughly wipe off your dog's legs and stomach when he comes in from out of the sleet, snow or ice.
He can ingest salt, antifreeze or other potentially dangerous chemicals while licking his paws. Avoid letting your dog off the leash on snow or ice, especially during a snowstorm, dogs can lose their scent and easily become lost. More dogs are lost during the winter than during any other season, so make sure yours always wears ID tags. Even in more moderate climate zones, keep the following in mind: Be particularly gentle with elderly and arthritic pets as cold weather can leave their joints extremely stiff and tender.
Stay directly below these pets when they are climbing stairs or jumping onto furniture and consider modifying their environment to make it easier for them to get around. Never leave your dog alone in a car during the winter. It can act as a refrigerator, holding in the cold and causing the animal to freeze to death. Keep in mind that a regular outside dog in cold weather will need a quarter to a third more food than he needs in warm weather in order to generate enough body heat.
Adjust their meals accordingly. Go ahead and put that sweater on Princess, if she'll put up with it. It will help a little, but where pets lose most of their body heat is from the pads of their feet, their ears, and their respiratory tract.
Sunday, December 16, 2007
Pets Visit Santa At Mall In Barboursville, WV.
On Sunday, Dec. 16, '07, Santa had his picture taken with some local dogs at the Huntington Mall, in Barboursville, WV. The jolly old elf’s early morning workout was for a good cause — it was the mall’s pet photo day with Santa from 9 to 11 a.m. Many pets and their humans braved the cold and gusty winds for this great treat and a good time. Andy Wilson of Reflections said this was the second pet photo day they’ve had at the mall this season.
Wilson, who also snapped a photo of his hounds Wiggles, Rocky and Cali, said it was good to be out at the mall with so many happy pet owners and pets. The Wilsons have had a rough week. The family had put down two of its sick and aging pets, Whiskers, a 20-year-old cat, and Zoie, a 15-year-old German Shepherd.
This event happens each year. My condolences to the Wilson's for the very hard, but responsible decision to end their aged pets pain. Merry Christmas to everyone and a very happy New Year.
Wilson, who also snapped a photo of his hounds Wiggles, Rocky and Cali, said it was good to be out at the mall with so many happy pet owners and pets. The Wilsons have had a rough week. The family had put down two of its sick and aging pets, Whiskers, a 20-year-old cat, and Zoie, a 15-year-old German Shepherd.
This event happens each year. My condolences to the Wilson's for the very hard, but responsible decision to end their aged pets pain. Merry Christmas to everyone and a very happy New Year.
Thursday, December 6, 2007
Microchipping Your Pet.
All About Microchipping Identification for Dogs and Cats.
Microchipping is recognized as the most effective and secure way of permanently identifying a pet. The technology to microchip has been around since 1989 and since then approximately 1.5 million dogs and cats have been microchipped.
What is microchipping?
The microchip is the size of a grain of rice and is encased in a biocompatible glass, the same used in human pacemakers, to prevent rejection from the animals body. In dogs, the microchip is inserted into the loose skin on the back of the dog's neck using a specially designed implanting device. Insertion is a quick and easy process that causes no more discomfort than a usual vaccination.
How does the microchip work?
Each microchip carries a unique number that is logged onto a national database. Against this number key information is stored about the dog and its owner including the dog's name, the owner's name and address and a record of the dog's vaccinations. When a scanner is passed over the microchip low frequency radio waves created by the scanner activate the microchip, allowing the unique number to be read.
Where can I have my dog or cat microchipped?
Contact your local veterinary surgery, animal shelter, or dog control officer for advice and prices.
How long does a microchip last?
Microchipping is an inexpensive investment as it should last for the life of your dog or cat.
Does my dog or cat have to be a particular age before it can be chipped?
It is recommended that a dog or cat have their final vaccinations before being microchipped.
Will implanting the chip hurt my dog or cat?
Not at all, microchipping is a quick and painless procedure that should not hurt more than the pet’s vaccinations.
Here are some companies that provide micro-chipping services:
American Veterinary ID Devices (AVID)
(800) 336-AVID
www.avid.com
IDENTICHIP:
(800) 926-1313
www.identichip.com
Home Again
(800) 926-1313
info@akc.org
Companion Animal Recovery
(800) 252-7894
www.akccar.org
PetNet
(800) 738-6385
www.petnet.ca
Microchipping is recognized as the most effective and secure way of permanently identifying a pet. The technology to microchip has been around since 1989 and since then approximately 1.5 million dogs and cats have been microchipped.
What is microchipping?
The microchip is the size of a grain of rice and is encased in a biocompatible glass, the same used in human pacemakers, to prevent rejection from the animals body. In dogs, the microchip is inserted into the loose skin on the back of the dog's neck using a specially designed implanting device. Insertion is a quick and easy process that causes no more discomfort than a usual vaccination.
How does the microchip work?
Each microchip carries a unique number that is logged onto a national database. Against this number key information is stored about the dog and its owner including the dog's name, the owner's name and address and a record of the dog's vaccinations. When a scanner is passed over the microchip low frequency radio waves created by the scanner activate the microchip, allowing the unique number to be read.
Where can I have my dog or cat microchipped?
Contact your local veterinary surgery, animal shelter, or dog control officer for advice and prices.
How long does a microchip last?
Microchipping is an inexpensive investment as it should last for the life of your dog or cat.
Does my dog or cat have to be a particular age before it can be chipped?
It is recommended that a dog or cat have their final vaccinations before being microchipped.
Will implanting the chip hurt my dog or cat?
Not at all, microchipping is a quick and painless procedure that should not hurt more than the pet’s vaccinations.
Here are some companies that provide micro-chipping services:
American Veterinary ID Devices (AVID)
(800) 336-AVID
www.avid.com
IDENTICHIP:
(800) 926-1313
www.identichip.com
Home Again
(800) 926-1313
info@akc.org
Companion Animal Recovery
(800) 252-7894
www.akccar.org
PetNet
(800) 738-6385
www.petnet.ca
Purchasing a Puppy.
Parenting your puppy:
Owning a puppy is great fun but there are also great responsibilities. We look at the ways in which you can best care for your puppy and how you can be a responsible puppy owner. Like all worthwhile things in life, owning a puppy involves responsibilities as well as pleasures. The pleasures are obvious and the responsibilities need to be considered. Your responsibilities are not just to your puppy but also to other people and the environment.
Training:
A well-trained and disciplined pup is an asset to his owner, so make sure he receives at least some basic obedience training. A puppy that is taught a few simple rules will become a well-adjusted and well-behaved family pet. Similar to children, you can teach puppies manners and the rules of the household. From the time you bring your new puppy home, teach him not to bite – even in play. Also, teach him that unnecessary barking is not allowed. Always make your puppy obeys the command “Sit” before being petted or fed. The key to training your pup is to realize that he really does want to please you. Praise and reward your puppy for appropriate behaviour and use a stern “No” when you wish to correct his behavior. As your puppy grows you should seek assistance with more formal training. Contact your local obedience club for details about their training classes. Joining such a club is inexpensive and not only provides instruction on training your puppy to obey basic commands such as stay, down and come, but a training club also allows your puppy to socialize with other dogs. Training will make your puppy a more pleasurable companion and it may also one day save his life.
Grooming:
Regular grooming is necessary to keep your puppy looking and feeling his best. Puppies that are naturally longhaired or densely coated require brushing more frequently than shorthaired puppies. Some breeds require regular professional clipping. Puppies should be accustomed to being brushed and combed from an early age. Your veterinarian can assist with cutting your puppy’s nails and cleaning his teeth, or can show you how to do it yourself. It is your responsibility to make sure that your puppy is vaccinated, wormed, de-fleaed and given regular health checks. If you are not planning to breed your puppy it is advisable to have him neutered by the age of six months, as this can help him live longer and cut down on future health problems.
Neighborhood friendly puppy:
Puppies that are allowed to bark excessively disturb the neighborhood, and neighbors will be unlikely to investigate a disturbance should anything agitate your pup. Constant barking can often be a sign of boredom. As a rule, puppies need regular physical and mental stimulation. When walking your puppy, always keep him leashed and observe all local regulations. Comply with the canine registration regulations, and be sure that your pup wears his registration tag and identification at all times. He should never be allowed to wander or roam. The consequences can be severe, ranging from a fine from your local government to your puppy becoming lost or even injured or killed by a motor vehicle. As a responsible puppy owner you must ensure that your pup does not soil parks, gardens, beaches or streets. Give your puppy every opportunity to relieve himself in his own yard before being taken for a walk. Accidents may happen from time to time and it is your responsibility to be prepared by carrying plastic bags or commercially available “pooper-scoopers” to clean up and dispose of the mess.
Prevention:
Unfortunately, puppies sometimes do get lost. You can help prevent this by making sure your puppy always wears a collar and an identification tag with your telephone number. Get your puppy microchipped as a further precaution against losing him. Your veterinarian can do this for you. Confine your puppy during thunderstorms and firework displays. If he does get lost, check with your neighbors, your local veterinary clinics, shelters and other animal welfare organizations. Check with these organizations in the neighboring areas as well, as lost animals may travel some distance. If you are planning a holiday, you will need to consider how best to care for your puppy while you are absent from home. Your veterinarian may be able to recommend a reputable kennel. You should make arrangements well in advance if you intend to board your puppy during common holiday periods. His vaccinations will need to be up-to-date. If you are only absent for a few days you may be able to arrange for a neighbor or a home feeding service to visit and feed your puppy. Never leave your puppy in the car, as cars can become very hot, even on moderately warm days, and he could die from heat exhaustion. By making sure that your puppy is well looked after, well-behaved and that you respect other people’s wishes, you are acting as a responsible puppy parent. This will not only benefit you and your puppy, but you are doing your bit for the reputation of other dog and puppy owners as well.
Owning a puppy is great fun but there are also great responsibilities. We look at the ways in which you can best care for your puppy and how you can be a responsible puppy owner. Like all worthwhile things in life, owning a puppy involves responsibilities as well as pleasures. The pleasures are obvious and the responsibilities need to be considered. Your responsibilities are not just to your puppy but also to other people and the environment.
Training:
A well-trained and disciplined pup is an asset to his owner, so make sure he receives at least some basic obedience training. A puppy that is taught a few simple rules will become a well-adjusted and well-behaved family pet. Similar to children, you can teach puppies manners and the rules of the household. From the time you bring your new puppy home, teach him not to bite – even in play. Also, teach him that unnecessary barking is not allowed. Always make your puppy obeys the command “Sit” before being petted or fed. The key to training your pup is to realize that he really does want to please you. Praise and reward your puppy for appropriate behaviour and use a stern “No” when you wish to correct his behavior. As your puppy grows you should seek assistance with more formal training. Contact your local obedience club for details about their training classes. Joining such a club is inexpensive and not only provides instruction on training your puppy to obey basic commands such as stay, down and come, but a training club also allows your puppy to socialize with other dogs. Training will make your puppy a more pleasurable companion and it may also one day save his life.
Grooming:
Regular grooming is necessary to keep your puppy looking and feeling his best. Puppies that are naturally longhaired or densely coated require brushing more frequently than shorthaired puppies. Some breeds require regular professional clipping. Puppies should be accustomed to being brushed and combed from an early age. Your veterinarian can assist with cutting your puppy’s nails and cleaning his teeth, or can show you how to do it yourself. It is your responsibility to make sure that your puppy is vaccinated, wormed, de-fleaed and given regular health checks. If you are not planning to breed your puppy it is advisable to have him neutered by the age of six months, as this can help him live longer and cut down on future health problems.
Neighborhood friendly puppy:
Puppies that are allowed to bark excessively disturb the neighborhood, and neighbors will be unlikely to investigate a disturbance should anything agitate your pup. Constant barking can often be a sign of boredom. As a rule, puppies need regular physical and mental stimulation. When walking your puppy, always keep him leashed and observe all local regulations. Comply with the canine registration regulations, and be sure that your pup wears his registration tag and identification at all times. He should never be allowed to wander or roam. The consequences can be severe, ranging from a fine from your local government to your puppy becoming lost or even injured or killed by a motor vehicle. As a responsible puppy owner you must ensure that your pup does not soil parks, gardens, beaches or streets. Give your puppy every opportunity to relieve himself in his own yard before being taken for a walk. Accidents may happen from time to time and it is your responsibility to be prepared by carrying plastic bags or commercially available “pooper-scoopers” to clean up and dispose of the mess.
Prevention:
Unfortunately, puppies sometimes do get lost. You can help prevent this by making sure your puppy always wears a collar and an identification tag with your telephone number. Get your puppy microchipped as a further precaution against losing him. Your veterinarian can do this for you. Confine your puppy during thunderstorms and firework displays. If he does get lost, check with your neighbors, your local veterinary clinics, shelters and other animal welfare organizations. Check with these organizations in the neighboring areas as well, as lost animals may travel some distance. If you are planning a holiday, you will need to consider how best to care for your puppy while you are absent from home. Your veterinarian may be able to recommend a reputable kennel. You should make arrangements well in advance if you intend to board your puppy during common holiday periods. His vaccinations will need to be up-to-date. If you are only absent for a few days you may be able to arrange for a neighbor or a home feeding service to visit and feed your puppy. Never leave your puppy in the car, as cars can become very hot, even on moderately warm days, and he could die from heat exhaustion. By making sure that your puppy is well looked after, well-behaved and that you respect other people’s wishes, you are acting as a responsible puppy parent. This will not only benefit you and your puppy, but you are doing your bit for the reputation of other dog and puppy owners as well.
Wednesday, December 5, 2007
Foods and Household Products That Are Dangerous to Your Dog..
Certain foods and household products can be dangerous to dogs! It’s only natural for dogs to be curious. But their curiosity can get them into trouble when they get into areas where you store household items such as medicine and detergents. Many common household items that you use everyday can be harmful, and sometimes even lethal, to your dog.
Foods that are harmful to your dog:
May cause vomiting, abdominal pain
and/or diarrhea:
Wild cherry
Almond
Apricot
Balsam Pear
Japanese Plum
May cause varied reactions:
Yeast dough
Coffee grounds
Macadamia nuts
Tomato and potato leaves and stems
Avocados
Onions and onion powder
Grapes
Raisins
Chocolate
Pear and peach kernels
Mushrooms (if also toxic to humans)
Rhubarb
Spinach
Alcohol:
Symptoms of possible poisoning are: vomiting, diarrhea, difficult breathing, abnormal urine (color, aroma or odor, frequency, etc.), salivation, weakness. If your dog should ingest harmful chemicals, contact a veterinarian or poison control center immediately.
Common household items that are
harmful to your dog:
Acetaminophen
Antifreeze and other car fluids
Bleach and cleaning fluids
Boric acid
Deodorants
Deodorizers
Detergents
De-icing salts
Disinfectants
Drain cleaners
Furniture polish
Gasoline
Hair colorings
Weed killers
Insecticides
Kerosene
Matches
Mothballs
Nail polish and remover
Paint
Prescription and
non-prescription medicine
Rat poison
Rubbing alcohol
Shoe polish
Sleeping pills
Snail or slug bait
Turpentine
Windshield-wiper fluid
Foods that are harmful to your dog:
May cause vomiting, abdominal pain
and/or diarrhea:
Wild cherry
Almond
Apricot
Balsam Pear
Japanese Plum
May cause varied reactions:
Yeast dough
Coffee grounds
Macadamia nuts
Tomato and potato leaves and stems
Avocados
Onions and onion powder
Grapes
Raisins
Chocolate
Pear and peach kernels
Mushrooms (if also toxic to humans)
Rhubarb
Spinach
Alcohol:
Symptoms of possible poisoning are: vomiting, diarrhea, difficult breathing, abnormal urine (color, aroma or odor, frequency, etc.), salivation, weakness. If your dog should ingest harmful chemicals, contact a veterinarian or poison control center immediately.
Common household items that are
harmful to your dog:
Acetaminophen
Antifreeze and other car fluids
Bleach and cleaning fluids
Boric acid
Deodorants
Deodorizers
Detergents
De-icing salts
Disinfectants
Drain cleaners
Furniture polish
Gasoline
Hair colorings
Weed killers
Insecticides
Kerosene
Matches
Mothballs
Nail polish and remover
Paint
Prescription and
non-prescription medicine
Rat poison
Rubbing alcohol
Shoe polish
Sleeping pills
Snail or slug bait
Turpentine
Windshield-wiper fluid
Monday, December 3, 2007
Disaster Preparedness.
Disaster Preparedness Materials.
AVMA disaster preparedness and response guide.
Nature and life have fury days:
Tornadoes, hurricanes, floods, fires, blizzards, terrorism...
Devastating natural and man-made disasters can ravage our lives. No one is exempt from the possibility of being affected personally. You need to prepare for yourself and for your animals in case of disaster. The American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) has developed this booklet to help you avoid having to leave your animals stranded in the event of a disaster or an evacuation.
· Do Not Wait Until It Is Too Late
· Preparing a Disaster Plan
· In Case You Are Not At Home
· Identification
· Transportation/Housing
· Veterinary Records
· Proof of Ownership
· List of Important Emergency Contacts
Saving the whole family:
Do Not Wait Until It Is Too Late. Countless times people have been told to leave their homes for a "short time," only to find that they cannot return for days or weeks. Even disasters like gas leaks and minor flooding can keep you from tending to your animals for extended periods of time. To prevent situations such as these take your animals with you. It is best to be overly cautious during a disaster warning. Preparing ahead of time and acting quickly is the best way to keep you and your family, including your animals, out of danger. Familiarize yourself with each type of disaster that could affect your area, not forgetting a hazardous materials spill.
Be prepared for the possible disruption of services for extended periods of time, including electric, phone, and local food and water sources. Having a plan in place and practicing the plan prior to a disaster will help you accomplish a successful evacuation and maintain the safety of your animals.
Preparing a Disaster Plan:
Setup an appointment to talk to your veterinarian about disaster planning. Assemble an animal evacuation kit. Develop an evacuation plan for all of your animals and practice the plan. If you live in an apartment, make sure your animals are on record with management and are able to evacuate via the stairwell. Dogs should be taught to go up and down stairs to better assist rescue personnel. Keep written directions to your home near your telephone. This will help you and others explain to emergency responders exactly how to get to your home.
Identify alternate sources of food and water. Have well maintained backup generators for use in food-animal production operations. Keep all vehicles well maintained and full of gas. Keep emergency cash on hand. If you have horses or livestock, good barn and field maintenance can reduce danger. Decide on the safest housing location if evacuation is impossible, realizing that the situation is still life threatening. Assess the stability and safety of barns and other structures, promptly remove dead trees, and minimize debris in the fields and immediate environment.
In Case You Are Not At Home:
Preplace stickers on front and back house doors, barn doors, and pasture entrances to notify neighbors, fire fighters, police, and other rescue personnel that animals are on your property and where to find your evacuation supplies. Provide a list near your evacuation supplies of the number, type, and location of your animals, noting favorite hiding spots, in order to save precious rescue time. To facilitate a successful rescue, provide muzzles, handling gloves, catch nets, and animal restraints where rescue personnel can find them. Keep in mind that animals may become unpredictable when frightened. Designate a willing neighbor to tend to your animals in the event that a disaster occurs when you are not at home. This person should have a key to your home, be familiar with your animals, know your evacuation procedures, and know where your evacuation supplies are kept.
In your evacuation kit, keep a pre-signed letter that releases your neighbor from responsibility if one of your animals becomes injured during the evacuation.
You may also want to have a pre-signed veterinary medical treatment authorization with your Evacuation kit – this will aid your veterinarian if your animal must be treated during your absence.
Identification:
Having identification on your animals, including rabies and license tags, if applicable, may help reunite you with your animal(s) in the event that you are separated. Identification should provide your name, home address, a phone number where you can be reached, and an out-of-state phone number of someone with whom you will be in contact during or soon after the disaster/evacuation. If possible, include your veterinarian's name, location, and phone number. Examples of some forms of identification are listed below.
Small Animal:
Collar tag (a piece of tape applied to the back of the collar tag can provide evacuation site information – use waterproof ink)
microchip
tattoo
temporary neckband
waterproof pouch attached to collar with identification information inside
many reptiles may be marked with a permanent felt-tipped marker
clear identification on cage/housing for confined animals
Equine:
microchip
tattoo
halter tag
neck collars
leg band
brand
mane clip
luggage tag braided into tail or mane
clipper-shaved information in the animals' hair
livestock marking crayon, non-toxic, non-water-soluble spray paint, or non-water-soluble markers to write on the animals' side
permanent marker to mark hooves
Livestock:
neck chain
ear notches
leg band
ear tag
brand
livestock marking crayon, non-toxic, non-water-soluble spray paint, or markers to write on the animals' side
wattle notching
ear tattoo
back or tail tag
Transportation/Housing:
It is important to separate animals from different households as much as possible and to maintain the best possible hygiene to decrease disease transmission.
Small Animal:
Leash, collar, and/or harness for each pet.
Collapsible cage or airline approved carrier should also be available for each pet, and bedded properly, for transportation and housing purposes - owning enough carriers to accommodate your pets facilitates a speedy evacuation and may mean the difference between the life or death of your pet. Familiarize your animals with evacuation procedures and cages/carriers. Take the cage/carrier out several times a year and put dog or cat treats inside with blankets and toys. By doing this, you hope to reinforce positive feelings associated with the animal carrier. Cat carriers should be large enough to hold a small litter pan and two small dishes and still allow your cat enough room to lie down comfortably or stand to use the litter pan. Dog kennels or collapsible cages should be large enough to hold two no-spill bowls and still allow enough room for your dog to stand and turn around.
For added assurance, clearly label each carrier with your identification and contact information. locate and prearrange an evacuation site for your family and animals outside your immediate area. Ideally, this will be a friend/relative or a pet-friendly hotel that is willing to let your family and animals stay in the event of a disaster. Other possible animal housing options include veterinary hospitals, boarding kennels, and animal shelters.
Equine/Livestock:
Equine/livestock evacuation can be challenging
Develop an evacuation plan and make sure that animals are familiar with being loaded onto a trailer. Premises with facilities that are specifically designed to load and handle livestock will be much more successful in evacuating and relocating livestock. Locate and prearrange an evacuation site for your animals outside your immediate area.
Possible sites include:
veterinary or land grant colleges
racetracks
show grounds
pastures
stables
fairgrounds
equestrian centers
livestock corrals
stockyards or auction facilities
other boarding facilities
If you do not have enough trailers to transport all of your animals to an evacuation site quickly, contact neighbors, local haulers, farmers, producers, or other transportation providers to establish a network of available and reliable resources that will provide transportation in the event of a disaster.
Veterinary Records:
Make photocopies of important veterinary documents to store in the evacuation kit.
Vaccination records:
Vaccination type and date
Rabies certificate, if applicable
Medical history
Important test results, such as Feline Leukemia/Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (Felv/FIV), heartworm, equine infectious anemia (Coggins test), tuberculosis, and brucellosis
Medical conditions and medications (including drug name, dosage, and frequency of dosing)
If your animal has a microchip, a record of the microchip number
For cattle: if an individual animal is or has been medically treated and is still under a withdrawal period, a treatment record must be maintained. The record must include animal's ID or group ID, date of treatment/s, the drug used and the drug manufacturer's serial or lot number, dosage of drug administered, route and location of administration, and the person administering the drug. The earliest date the animal could clear the withdrawal period for the administered drug should also be listed.
Proof of Ownership:
Make copies of registration information, adoption papers, proof of purchase, and microchip information to store in the evacuation kit. List each one of your animals and their species, breed, age, sex, color, and distinguishing characteristics. Keep current photographs of your animals in the evacuation kit for identification. Include yourself in some of the photos to help you reclaim your lost animal(s). Consider preparing waterproof "Lost Pet" signs with your animal's photo attached, your name, and your contact information to use in case your animal is lost. If your pet has a microchip, call the company to register your pet's information and make sure to keep that information updated.
List of Important Emergency Contacts:
Prepare this list now before a disaster strikes. Include addresses and 24-hour contact numbers, if available. These contacts can be used by rescue personnel responding to a disaster affecting your animals or by you during a disaster or an evacuation. Keep one copy near your telephone and one copy in your animal evacuation kit. Numbers where you may be reached (pager, cell phone, work phone.)
Your prearranged evacuation site.
Local contact person in case of emergency when you are not available.
Out-of-state contact person.
Your veterinarian's name, clinic name, and phone numbers.
Alternate veterinarian (30-90 miles away, provides boarding)
Boarding facility (local)
Boarding facility (30-90 miles away)
Hotels that allow pets (90 mile radius)
Local Animal Control
Local Police Department
Local Fire Department
Local Public Health Department
Local animal shelter
Local Red Cross chapter
Local humane society
Local Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (SPCA)
List of internet "lost and found" animal sites
Additional contacts
for equine/livestock owners:
State veterinarian
State veterinary colleges or land grant colleges of agriculture
Private stables/farms
County Extension office; this is especially important for livestock owners
Brand inspector, if applicable
Applicable state and county livestock associations
Racetracks
Fairgrounds
Show grounds
Stockyards
Equestrian centers
Local haulers or neighbors to help with transportation
Feed distributor
American Association of Equine Practitioners (http://aaep.org/emergency_prep.htm)
American Association of Bovine Practitioners (http://www.aabp.org/)
American Association of Small Ruminant Practitioners (http://www.aasrp.org/)
American Association of Swine Veterinarians (http://www.aasp.org)
USDA-APHIS Veterinarian-in-Charge (http://www.aphis.usda.gov/vs/nvap/vsoffice.html)
USDA-APHIS Area Emergency Coordinator
Evacuation Essentials
· Small Animal Evacuation Kit
· Small Animal First Aid Kit
· Livestock Evacuation Kit
· Equine Evacuation Kit
· Equine First Aid Kit
· Evacuating Other Types of Pets
· An Evacuation Order Has Been Issued...Now What Do You Do?
The following lists will help you prepare for your animal(s) in the event of a disaster. The evacuation kit should be assembled in easy-to-carry, waterproof containers. It should be stored in an easily accessible location away from areas with temperature extremes. Replace the food, water, and medications as often as needed to maintain their quality and freshness and in accordance with the expiration dates. Indicate, if applicable, medications that are stored elsewhere due to temperature requirements such as refrigeration.
Consult your veterinarian for advice on making an animal evacuation kit and first aid kit that is appropriate for your individual animals. It is important that you become familiar with the items in your kit and their uses. Your veterinarian may recommend an animal first aid book to include in your kit. Consult your veterinarian regarding emergency first aid procedures and administration of any medications.
Small Animal Evacuation Kit
2-week supply of food (dry & canned)
2-week supply of water in plastic gallon jugs with secure lids
Batteries (flashlight, radio)
Cage/carrier (one for each animal, labeled with your contact information)
Can opener (manual)
Cat/wildlife gloves
Copies of veterinary records and proof of ownership
Emergency contact list
Familiar items to make pets feel comfortable (favorite toys, treats, blankets)
First aid kit (see next page)
Flashlight
Instructions
Diet: record the diet for each individual animal, including what not to feed in case of allergies.
Medications: list each animal separately, including dose and frequency for each medication. Provide veterinary and pharmacy contact information for refills.
Leash and collar or harness (for each animal)
Litter, litter pan, litter scoop
Maps of local area and alternate evacuation routes (in case of road closures)
Muzzles (dog or cat)
Newspaper (bedding, litter)
No-spill food and water dishes
Paper towels
Radio (solar and battery operated)
Spoon (for canned food)
Stakes and tie-outs
Trash bags
Small Animal First Aid Kit:
Consult your veterinarian when developing the first aid kit. The items below serve only as examples of what may be included in a small animal first aid kit.
Activated charcoal (liquid)
Anti-diarrheal liquid or tablets
Antibiotic ointment (for wounds)
Antibiotic eye ointment
Bandage scissors
Bandage tape
Betadine® (povidone-iodine) or Nolvasan® (chlorhexidine), scrub and solution
Cotton bandage rolls
Cotton-tipped swabs
Elastic bandage rolls
Eye rinse (sterile)
Flea and tick prevention and treatment
Gauze pads and rolls
Ice cream sticks (which may be used as splints)
Isopropyl alcohol/alcohol prep pads
Latex gloves or non-allergenic gloves
Liquid dish detergent (mild wound and body cleanser)
Measuring spoons
Medications and preventatives (such as heartworm prevention), minimum 2-week supply, with clearly labeled instructions. Provide veterinary and pharmacy contact information for refills.
Non-adherent bandage pads
Saline solution (for rinsing wounds)
Sterile lubricant (water based)
Styptic powder (clotting agent)
Syringe or eyedropper
Thermometer (digital)
Tourniquet
Towel and washcloth
Tweezers
Livestock Evacuation Kit:
7-10 day supply of feed and water
Batteries (flashlight, radio)
Copies of veterinary records and proof of ownership
Cotton halter
Duct tape
Emergency contact list
Flashlight
Heavy gloves (leather)
Instructions
Diet: record the diet for your animals.
Medications: record the dose and frequency for each medication. Provide veterinary and pharmacy contact information for refills.
Knife (sharp, all-purpose)
Maps of local area and alternate evacuation routes (in case of road closures)
Nose leads
Plastic trash cans with lids (can be used to store water)
Portable livestock panels
Radio (solar and battery operated)
Rope or lariat
Shovel
Water buckets
Whip, prods
Wire cutters
Equine Evacuation Kit:
7-10 day supply of feed, supplements, and water
Bandannas (to use as blindfolds)
Batteries (flashlight, radio)
Blankets
Copies of veterinary records and proof of ownership
Duct tape
Emergency contact list
First aid kit
Flashlight
Fly spray
Grooming brushes
Heavy gloves (leather)
Hoof knife
Hoof nippers
Hoof pick
Hoof rasp
Instructions
Diet: record the diet for your animals.
Medications: record the dose and frequency for each medication. Provide veterinary and pharmacy contact information for refills.
Knife (sharp, all-purpose)
Leg wraps and leg quilts
Maps of local area and alternate evacuation routes (in case of road closures)
Non-nylon halters and leads (leather/cotton)
Paper towels
Plastic trash cans with lids (can be used to store water)
Radio (solar and battery operated)
Rope or lariat
Shovel
Tarpaulins
Trash bags
Twitch
Water buckets
Wire cutters
Equine First Aid Kit:
Consult your veterinarian when developing the first aid kit. The items below serve only as examples of what may be included in an equine first aid kit.
Antibiotic ointment (for wounds)
Antibiotic eye ointment
Bandage scissors
Bandage tape
Betadine® (povidone-iodine) or Nolvasan® (chlorhexidine), scrub and solution
Cotton bandage rolls
Cotton-tipped swabs
Elastic bandage rolls
Eye rinse (sterile)
Gauze pads and rolls
Isopropyl alcohol/alcohol prep pads
Latex gloves or non-allergenic gloves
Medications (minimum 2 week supply, with clearly labeled instructions)
Non-adherent bandage pads
Saline solution (for rinsing wounds)
Sterile lubricant (water-based)
Thermometer (digital)
Tincture of green soap
Tourniquet
Towel and washcloth
Tweezers
Evacuating Other Types of Pets:
Identification, medical records, and proof of ownership are equally as important for other kinds of pets as for the aforementioned animals. Transportation of these species may require additional attention and care in order to decrease chances of stress-induced illness and death. It is important to keep pets from different sources as separate as possible and maintain the best possible hygiene in order to decrease disease transmission.
Birds: Transportation of pet birds is best accomplished using small, secure, covered carriers to avoid injury.
If traveling in cold weather, always warm the interior of your vehicle before moving your bird(s) from the house to the vehicle.
Transfer your bird(s) to a standard cage upon arrival at the evacuation site; covering the cage may reduce stress; this transfer should occur in a small, enclosed room to reduce the risk of escape.
Birds should be kept in quiet areas and not allowed out of the cage in unfamiliar surroundings. Fresh food and water should be provided daily.
If your bird appears ill, be sure to lower the cage perch, food dish, and water bowl and consult a veterinarian as soon as possible.
In addition to the pertinent items listed under small animal evacuation kit, include:
necessary dietary supplements
plant mister for cooling birds in hot weather
hot water bottle for warming birds in cold weather
materials to line the bottom of the cage
cage perch
toys
Reptiles: Transportation of small reptiles can be accomplished using a pillowcase, cloth sack, or small transport carrier. If possible, promote defecation before transporting the animal (for example allow tortoises, lizards, or snakes to soak in a shallow water bath before bagging or caging). Transfer your pet to a secure cage at the evacuation site as soon as possible and if appropriate. In addition to the pertinent items listed under small animal evacuation kit, include:
essential dietary supplements
water bowl for soaking
spray bottle for misting
extra bags or newspapers
heating pad
battery-operated heating source or other appropriate heat source
extra batteries
appropriate handling gloves/supplies
Since most reptiles do not eat daily, feeding during evacuation circumstances may increase stress. Determine if feeding is in the animal's best interest, especially if the container may become fouled. Housing at the evacuation facility should be consistent with that required by the reptile. The enclosure should, if possible, be placed in a controlled environment, away from areas of heavy traffic, loud noises, and vibrations. Make sure that the container housing the retile is escape proof. Nonetheless, plan for escapes.
Amphibians: Transportation of amphibians can be accomplished by using watertight plastic bags, such as the ones used for pet fish transport, or plastic containers, such as plastic shoeboxes or plastic food containers with snap-on lids. It is best to place only one species or if possible only one animal per container. Small ventilation holes should be placed in the upper wall or plastic lid. Smooth the inner surface of the holes with a file or sandpaper to prevent injury to the animal.
For terrestrial or semi aquatic amphibians use a tiny amount of water, or moistened paper towels, clean foam rubber, or moss as a suitable substrate. For aquatic species, fill the plastic bag one third full of water, then inflate the bag with fresh air and close with a knot or rubber band. It is best to use clean water from the animal's enclosure to minimize physiologic stress. Care must be taken to monitor water and air temperature, humidity, lighting, and nutrition during the time that the animal will be in the evacuation facility. Housing at the evacuation facility should be consistent with that required by the amphibian. The enclosure should, if possible, be placed in a controlled environment, away from areas of heavy traffic, loud noises, and vibrations. Make sure that the container housing the amphibian is escape proof. Nonetheless, plan for escapes. Take an extra container of water, clean moist paper towels or clean moss as is appropriate in case any of your pet's containers break or leak. Feeding during evacuation circumstances may increase stress so it may not be in the animal's best interests to supply food, especially if the water may become fouled.
Other small animals: Transportation of most small mammals (ferrets, hamsters, gerbils, rats, mice, guinea pigs, etc.) is best accomplished using a secure, covered carrier or cage to reduce stress. In addition to the pertinent items listed under small animal evacuation kit, include:
necessary dietary supplements
extra bedding materials
appropriate exercise equipment
An Evacuation Order Has Been Issued...
Now What Do You Do?
Evacuate your family, including your animals, as early as possible. By leaving early, you will decrease the chance of becoming victims of the disaster.
Bring your dogs, cats, and other small animals indoors. Make sure all animals have some form of identification securely fastened to them (or their cage, in the case of smaller, caged pets). The utilization of permanent identification is encouraged.
Place all small pets, including cats and small dogs, inside individual transportable carriers. When stressed, animals that normally get along may become aggressive towards each other. Secure leashes on all large dogs. Load your larger animal cages/carriers into your vehicle. These will serve as temporary housing for your animals if needed. Load the animal evacuation kit and supplies into your vehicle.
Call your prearranged animal evacuation site to confirm availability of space.
Implement your equine/livestock evacuation plan. If evacuation of horses/livestock is impossible, relocate them to the safest place possible based on the type of imminent disaster and your environment, realizing that the situation could be life threatening. Make sure that they have access to hay or an appropriate and safe free-choice food source, clean water, and the safest living area possible including high ground above flood levels. Do not rely on automatic watering systems, because power may be lost. The decision to leave your horses/livestock in the field or in the barn should be based on the risks of injury resulting from the disaster as well as from the horse's/livestock's immediate environment during that disaster. Factors to consider include the stability of the barn, the risk of flooding, and the amount of trees and debris in the fields. If time permits, secure or remove all outdoor objects that may turn into dangerous flying debris.
After the Disaster:
Survey the area inside and outside your home to identify sharp objects, dangerous materials, dangerous wildlife, contaminated water, downed power lines, or other hazards. Examine your animals closely, and contact your veterinarian immediately if you observe injuries or signs of illness. Familiar scents and landmarks may have changed, and this can confuse your animals. Release equine/livestock in safe and enclosed areas only. Initial release should take place during daylight hours, when the animals can be closely observed. Release cats, dogs, and other small animals indoors only. They could encounter dangerous wildlife and debris if they are allowed outside unsupervised and unrestrained. Release birds and reptiles only if necessary and only when they are calm and in an enclosed room. Reintroduce food in small servings, gradually working up to full portions if animals have been without food for a prolonged period of time. Allow uninterrupted rest/sleep for all animals to recover from the trauma and stress. If your animals are lost, physically check animal control and animal shelters daily for lost animals. Post waterproof lost animal notices and notify local law enforcement, animal care and control officials, veterinarians, and your neighbors of any lost animals (utilize online resources for lost and found animals).
The American Veterinary Medical Association:
The American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) disaster preparedness and response efforts resulted from an agreement between the AVMA and the office of Emergency Preparedness of the U.S. Public Health Service. With the signing of a Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) in May 1993, veterinary services became incorporated into the Federal Response Plan, now known as the National Response Plan, for disaster relief as part of the National Disaster Medical System (NDMS). The completion, in August 1994, of an MOU between the AVMA and the United States Department of Agriculture/Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (USDA/APHIS) made it possible for the VMAT to assist the USDA in the control, treatment, and eradication of animal disease outbreaks. Such a response would occur under the direction of the USDA. In 1998, the AVMA and American Veterinary Medical Foundation (AVMF) signed a statement of understanding (SOU) with The American National Red Cross (ARC). In the SOU, the ARC recognizes the AVMA/AVMF as the only national organizations representing the entire profession of licensed veterinarians solely responsible for the diagnosis, treatment, health and well-being of all animals, including during periods designated as disaster relief.
The American Veterinary Medical Foundation:
Founded in 1963, the American Veterinary Medical Foundation (AVMF) is a 501(c)(3) organization that raises and disburses funds for initiatives supporting its mission statement, "Advancing the care of animals with an emphasis on disaster preparedness and response, and animal health studies". Contributions made to the AVMF are tax deductible. The AVMF Animal Disaster Relief and Response Fund provides support for emergency veterinary aid for the health, safety, and welfare of animals affected by disasters at the local level, emergency preparedness at the state level, and the Veterinary Medical Assistance Teams at the national level.
Veterinary Medical Assistance Teams:
Some disasters create a need for additional veterinary assistance. The Veterinary Medical Assistance Teams (VMAT) treat animals that are affected by or injured in disasters when the local veterinary community is overwhelmed. They are deployed when their assistance is requested by state or local officials and authorized by federal authorities. The VMAT Mission: To assist with the care of animals, animal related issues and public health during a disaster following a request from an appropriate agency. The VMAT consist of veterinarians, veterinary technicians, and other veterinary and non-veterinary support personnel who are capable of responding within 24-48 hours of notification. The VMAT are capable of addressing veterinary and public health issues associated with a disaster, and they can establish a field veterinary hospital if requested to do so. They coordinate the animal relief efforts in cooperation with emergency management, the state veterinarian, state and local veterinary medical associations, state and local officials, the local veterinary community, animal control officials, and responding humane organizations. They operate as part of the National Disaster Medical System within the National Response Plan.
For additional information about the AVMA disaster relief efforts:
AVMA
1931 N. Meacham Rd., Suite 100
Schaumburg, IL 60173-4360
847/925-8070, ext. 6632
www.avma.org/disaster
The AVMF for its continued support of AVMA disaster relief efforts
The Iams Company for its financial support of AVMF disaster relief initiatives which resulted in the initial development and distribution of this resource.
The American Association of Equine Practitioners
http://aaep.org/emergency_prep.htm
The American Association of Bovine Practitioners
http://www.aabp.org/
The Association of reptilian & Amphibian Veterinarians
www.arav.org
Association of Avian Veterinarians
http://www.aav.org
American Association of Avian Pathologists
http://www.aaap.info
Dr. kimberly May, AVMA Medical/science writer
© 2006 American Veterinary Medical Association
Prepared by Cindy S. Lovern, DVM, MS
Graphic Design by Cheryl Atkins and Sarah Jurecka
As the winds blow on
And the waters rise deep
You can hear their cries
You can hear them weep
Those you have brought into your home
Those who are loyal, caring and warm.
You feed them each day, and tell them to stay
And now when they need you, don't turn them away.
When you vowed to love, when you vowed to care
You vowed to sacrifice, and vowed to prepare.
So now in times of trouble and strife
You are responsible for more than one life.
You need to plan, think, and prepare
For all those who need you
Those who depend on your care.
— Cindy Swancott Lovern
American Veterinary Medical Association
Copyright © 2007
AVMA disaster preparedness and response guide.
Nature and life have fury days:
Tornadoes, hurricanes, floods, fires, blizzards, terrorism...
Devastating natural and man-made disasters can ravage our lives. No one is exempt from the possibility of being affected personally. You need to prepare for yourself and for your animals in case of disaster. The American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) has developed this booklet to help you avoid having to leave your animals stranded in the event of a disaster or an evacuation.
· Do Not Wait Until It Is Too Late
· Preparing a Disaster Plan
· In Case You Are Not At Home
· Identification
· Transportation/Housing
· Veterinary Records
· Proof of Ownership
· List of Important Emergency Contacts
Saving the whole family:
Do Not Wait Until It Is Too Late. Countless times people have been told to leave their homes for a "short time," only to find that they cannot return for days or weeks. Even disasters like gas leaks and minor flooding can keep you from tending to your animals for extended periods of time. To prevent situations such as these take your animals with you. It is best to be overly cautious during a disaster warning. Preparing ahead of time and acting quickly is the best way to keep you and your family, including your animals, out of danger. Familiarize yourself with each type of disaster that could affect your area, not forgetting a hazardous materials spill.
Be prepared for the possible disruption of services for extended periods of time, including electric, phone, and local food and water sources. Having a plan in place and practicing the plan prior to a disaster will help you accomplish a successful evacuation and maintain the safety of your animals.
Preparing a Disaster Plan:
Setup an appointment to talk to your veterinarian about disaster planning. Assemble an animal evacuation kit. Develop an evacuation plan for all of your animals and practice the plan. If you live in an apartment, make sure your animals are on record with management and are able to evacuate via the stairwell. Dogs should be taught to go up and down stairs to better assist rescue personnel. Keep written directions to your home near your telephone. This will help you and others explain to emergency responders exactly how to get to your home.
Identify alternate sources of food and water. Have well maintained backup generators for use in food-animal production operations. Keep all vehicles well maintained and full of gas. Keep emergency cash on hand. If you have horses or livestock, good barn and field maintenance can reduce danger. Decide on the safest housing location if evacuation is impossible, realizing that the situation is still life threatening. Assess the stability and safety of barns and other structures, promptly remove dead trees, and minimize debris in the fields and immediate environment.
In Case You Are Not At Home:
Preplace stickers on front and back house doors, barn doors, and pasture entrances to notify neighbors, fire fighters, police, and other rescue personnel that animals are on your property and where to find your evacuation supplies. Provide a list near your evacuation supplies of the number, type, and location of your animals, noting favorite hiding spots, in order to save precious rescue time. To facilitate a successful rescue, provide muzzles, handling gloves, catch nets, and animal restraints where rescue personnel can find them. Keep in mind that animals may become unpredictable when frightened. Designate a willing neighbor to tend to your animals in the event that a disaster occurs when you are not at home. This person should have a key to your home, be familiar with your animals, know your evacuation procedures, and know where your evacuation supplies are kept.
In your evacuation kit, keep a pre-signed letter that releases your neighbor from responsibility if one of your animals becomes injured during the evacuation.
You may also want to have a pre-signed veterinary medical treatment authorization with your Evacuation kit – this will aid your veterinarian if your animal must be treated during your absence.
Identification:
Having identification on your animals, including rabies and license tags, if applicable, may help reunite you with your animal(s) in the event that you are separated. Identification should provide your name, home address, a phone number where you can be reached, and an out-of-state phone number of someone with whom you will be in contact during or soon after the disaster/evacuation. If possible, include your veterinarian's name, location, and phone number. Examples of some forms of identification are listed below.
Small Animal:
Collar tag (a piece of tape applied to the back of the collar tag can provide evacuation site information – use waterproof ink)
microchip
tattoo
temporary neckband
waterproof pouch attached to collar with identification information inside
many reptiles may be marked with a permanent felt-tipped marker
clear identification on cage/housing for confined animals
Equine:
microchip
tattoo
halter tag
neck collars
leg band
brand
mane clip
luggage tag braided into tail or mane
clipper-shaved information in the animals' hair
livestock marking crayon, non-toxic, non-water-soluble spray paint, or non-water-soluble markers to write on the animals' side
permanent marker to mark hooves
Livestock:
neck chain
ear notches
leg band
ear tag
brand
livestock marking crayon, non-toxic, non-water-soluble spray paint, or markers to write on the animals' side
wattle notching
ear tattoo
back or tail tag
Transportation/Housing:
It is important to separate animals from different households as much as possible and to maintain the best possible hygiene to decrease disease transmission.
Small Animal:
Leash, collar, and/or harness for each pet.
Collapsible cage or airline approved carrier should also be available for each pet, and bedded properly, for transportation and housing purposes - owning enough carriers to accommodate your pets facilitates a speedy evacuation and may mean the difference between the life or death of your pet. Familiarize your animals with evacuation procedures and cages/carriers. Take the cage/carrier out several times a year and put dog or cat treats inside with blankets and toys. By doing this, you hope to reinforce positive feelings associated with the animal carrier. Cat carriers should be large enough to hold a small litter pan and two small dishes and still allow your cat enough room to lie down comfortably or stand to use the litter pan. Dog kennels or collapsible cages should be large enough to hold two no-spill bowls and still allow enough room for your dog to stand and turn around.
For added assurance, clearly label each carrier with your identification and contact information. locate and prearrange an evacuation site for your family and animals outside your immediate area. Ideally, this will be a friend/relative or a pet-friendly hotel that is willing to let your family and animals stay in the event of a disaster. Other possible animal housing options include veterinary hospitals, boarding kennels, and animal shelters.
Equine/Livestock:
Equine/livestock evacuation can be challenging
Develop an evacuation plan and make sure that animals are familiar with being loaded onto a trailer. Premises with facilities that are specifically designed to load and handle livestock will be much more successful in evacuating and relocating livestock. Locate and prearrange an evacuation site for your animals outside your immediate area.
Possible sites include:
veterinary or land grant colleges
racetracks
show grounds
pastures
stables
fairgrounds
equestrian centers
livestock corrals
stockyards or auction facilities
other boarding facilities
If you do not have enough trailers to transport all of your animals to an evacuation site quickly, contact neighbors, local haulers, farmers, producers, or other transportation providers to establish a network of available and reliable resources that will provide transportation in the event of a disaster.
Veterinary Records:
Make photocopies of important veterinary documents to store in the evacuation kit.
Vaccination records:
Vaccination type and date
Rabies certificate, if applicable
Medical history
Important test results, such as Feline Leukemia/Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (Felv/FIV), heartworm, equine infectious anemia (Coggins test), tuberculosis, and brucellosis
Medical conditions and medications (including drug name, dosage, and frequency of dosing)
If your animal has a microchip, a record of the microchip number
For cattle: if an individual animal is or has been medically treated and is still under a withdrawal period, a treatment record must be maintained. The record must include animal's ID or group ID, date of treatment/s, the drug used and the drug manufacturer's serial or lot number, dosage of drug administered, route and location of administration, and the person administering the drug. The earliest date the animal could clear the withdrawal period for the administered drug should also be listed.
Proof of Ownership:
Make copies of registration information, adoption papers, proof of purchase, and microchip information to store in the evacuation kit. List each one of your animals and their species, breed, age, sex, color, and distinguishing characteristics. Keep current photographs of your animals in the evacuation kit for identification. Include yourself in some of the photos to help you reclaim your lost animal(s). Consider preparing waterproof "Lost Pet" signs with your animal's photo attached, your name, and your contact information to use in case your animal is lost. If your pet has a microchip, call the company to register your pet's information and make sure to keep that information updated.
List of Important Emergency Contacts:
Prepare this list now before a disaster strikes. Include addresses and 24-hour contact numbers, if available. These contacts can be used by rescue personnel responding to a disaster affecting your animals or by you during a disaster or an evacuation. Keep one copy near your telephone and one copy in your animal evacuation kit. Numbers where you may be reached (pager, cell phone, work phone.)
Your prearranged evacuation site.
Local contact person in case of emergency when you are not available.
Out-of-state contact person.
Your veterinarian's name, clinic name, and phone numbers.
Alternate veterinarian (30-90 miles away, provides boarding)
Boarding facility (local)
Boarding facility (30-90 miles away)
Hotels that allow pets (90 mile radius)
Local Animal Control
Local Police Department
Local Fire Department
Local Public Health Department
Local animal shelter
Local Red Cross chapter
Local humane society
Local Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (SPCA)
List of internet "lost and found" animal sites
Additional contacts
for equine/livestock owners:
State veterinarian
State veterinary colleges or land grant colleges of agriculture
Private stables/farms
County Extension office; this is especially important for livestock owners
Brand inspector, if applicable
Applicable state and county livestock associations
Racetracks
Fairgrounds
Show grounds
Stockyards
Equestrian centers
Local haulers or neighbors to help with transportation
Feed distributor
American Association of Equine Practitioners (http://aaep.org/emergency_prep.htm)
American Association of Bovine Practitioners (http://www.aabp.org/)
American Association of Small Ruminant Practitioners (http://www.aasrp.org/)
American Association of Swine Veterinarians (http://www.aasp.org)
USDA-APHIS Veterinarian-in-Charge (http://www.aphis.usda.gov/vs/nvap/vsoffice.html)
USDA-APHIS Area Emergency Coordinator
Evacuation Essentials
· Small Animal Evacuation Kit
· Small Animal First Aid Kit
· Livestock Evacuation Kit
· Equine Evacuation Kit
· Equine First Aid Kit
· Evacuating Other Types of Pets
· An Evacuation Order Has Been Issued...Now What Do You Do?
The following lists will help you prepare for your animal(s) in the event of a disaster. The evacuation kit should be assembled in easy-to-carry, waterproof containers. It should be stored in an easily accessible location away from areas with temperature extremes. Replace the food, water, and medications as often as needed to maintain their quality and freshness and in accordance with the expiration dates. Indicate, if applicable, medications that are stored elsewhere due to temperature requirements such as refrigeration.
Consult your veterinarian for advice on making an animal evacuation kit and first aid kit that is appropriate for your individual animals. It is important that you become familiar with the items in your kit and their uses. Your veterinarian may recommend an animal first aid book to include in your kit. Consult your veterinarian regarding emergency first aid procedures and administration of any medications.
Small Animal Evacuation Kit
2-week supply of food (dry & canned)
2-week supply of water in plastic gallon jugs with secure lids
Batteries (flashlight, radio)
Cage/carrier (one for each animal, labeled with your contact information)
Can opener (manual)
Cat/wildlife gloves
Copies of veterinary records and proof of ownership
Emergency contact list
Familiar items to make pets feel comfortable (favorite toys, treats, blankets)
First aid kit (see next page)
Flashlight
Instructions
Diet: record the diet for each individual animal, including what not to feed in case of allergies.
Medications: list each animal separately, including dose and frequency for each medication. Provide veterinary and pharmacy contact information for refills.
Leash and collar or harness (for each animal)
Litter, litter pan, litter scoop
Maps of local area and alternate evacuation routes (in case of road closures)
Muzzles (dog or cat)
Newspaper (bedding, litter)
No-spill food and water dishes
Paper towels
Radio (solar and battery operated)
Spoon (for canned food)
Stakes and tie-outs
Trash bags
Small Animal First Aid Kit:
Consult your veterinarian when developing the first aid kit. The items below serve only as examples of what may be included in a small animal first aid kit.
Activated charcoal (liquid)
Anti-diarrheal liquid or tablets
Antibiotic ointment (for wounds)
Antibiotic eye ointment
Bandage scissors
Bandage tape
Betadine® (povidone-iodine) or Nolvasan® (chlorhexidine), scrub and solution
Cotton bandage rolls
Cotton-tipped swabs
Elastic bandage rolls
Eye rinse (sterile)
Flea and tick prevention and treatment
Gauze pads and rolls
Ice cream sticks (which may be used as splints)
Isopropyl alcohol/alcohol prep pads
Latex gloves or non-allergenic gloves
Liquid dish detergent (mild wound and body cleanser)
Measuring spoons
Medications and preventatives (such as heartworm prevention), minimum 2-week supply, with clearly labeled instructions. Provide veterinary and pharmacy contact information for refills.
Non-adherent bandage pads
Saline solution (for rinsing wounds)
Sterile lubricant (water based)
Styptic powder (clotting agent)
Syringe or eyedropper
Thermometer (digital)
Tourniquet
Towel and washcloth
Tweezers
Livestock Evacuation Kit:
7-10 day supply of feed and water
Batteries (flashlight, radio)
Copies of veterinary records and proof of ownership
Cotton halter
Duct tape
Emergency contact list
Flashlight
Heavy gloves (leather)
Instructions
Diet: record the diet for your animals.
Medications: record the dose and frequency for each medication. Provide veterinary and pharmacy contact information for refills.
Knife (sharp, all-purpose)
Maps of local area and alternate evacuation routes (in case of road closures)
Nose leads
Plastic trash cans with lids (can be used to store water)
Portable livestock panels
Radio (solar and battery operated)
Rope or lariat
Shovel
Water buckets
Whip, prods
Wire cutters
Equine Evacuation Kit:
7-10 day supply of feed, supplements, and water
Bandannas (to use as blindfolds)
Batteries (flashlight, radio)
Blankets
Copies of veterinary records and proof of ownership
Duct tape
Emergency contact list
First aid kit
Flashlight
Fly spray
Grooming brushes
Heavy gloves (leather)
Hoof knife
Hoof nippers
Hoof pick
Hoof rasp
Instructions
Diet: record the diet for your animals.
Medications: record the dose and frequency for each medication. Provide veterinary and pharmacy contact information for refills.
Knife (sharp, all-purpose)
Leg wraps and leg quilts
Maps of local area and alternate evacuation routes (in case of road closures)
Non-nylon halters and leads (leather/cotton)
Paper towels
Plastic trash cans with lids (can be used to store water)
Radio (solar and battery operated)
Rope or lariat
Shovel
Tarpaulins
Trash bags
Twitch
Water buckets
Wire cutters
Equine First Aid Kit:
Consult your veterinarian when developing the first aid kit. The items below serve only as examples of what may be included in an equine first aid kit.
Antibiotic ointment (for wounds)
Antibiotic eye ointment
Bandage scissors
Bandage tape
Betadine® (povidone-iodine) or Nolvasan® (chlorhexidine), scrub and solution
Cotton bandage rolls
Cotton-tipped swabs
Elastic bandage rolls
Eye rinse (sterile)
Gauze pads and rolls
Isopropyl alcohol/alcohol prep pads
Latex gloves or non-allergenic gloves
Medications (minimum 2 week supply, with clearly labeled instructions)
Non-adherent bandage pads
Saline solution (for rinsing wounds)
Sterile lubricant (water-based)
Thermometer (digital)
Tincture of green soap
Tourniquet
Towel and washcloth
Tweezers
Evacuating Other Types of Pets:
Identification, medical records, and proof of ownership are equally as important for other kinds of pets as for the aforementioned animals. Transportation of these species may require additional attention and care in order to decrease chances of stress-induced illness and death. It is important to keep pets from different sources as separate as possible and maintain the best possible hygiene in order to decrease disease transmission.
Birds: Transportation of pet birds is best accomplished using small, secure, covered carriers to avoid injury.
If traveling in cold weather, always warm the interior of your vehicle before moving your bird(s) from the house to the vehicle.
Transfer your bird(s) to a standard cage upon arrival at the evacuation site; covering the cage may reduce stress; this transfer should occur in a small, enclosed room to reduce the risk of escape.
Birds should be kept in quiet areas and not allowed out of the cage in unfamiliar surroundings. Fresh food and water should be provided daily.
If your bird appears ill, be sure to lower the cage perch, food dish, and water bowl and consult a veterinarian as soon as possible.
In addition to the pertinent items listed under small animal evacuation kit, include:
necessary dietary supplements
plant mister for cooling birds in hot weather
hot water bottle for warming birds in cold weather
materials to line the bottom of the cage
cage perch
toys
Reptiles: Transportation of small reptiles can be accomplished using a pillowcase, cloth sack, or small transport carrier. If possible, promote defecation before transporting the animal (for example allow tortoises, lizards, or snakes to soak in a shallow water bath before bagging or caging). Transfer your pet to a secure cage at the evacuation site as soon as possible and if appropriate. In addition to the pertinent items listed under small animal evacuation kit, include:
essential dietary supplements
water bowl for soaking
spray bottle for misting
extra bags or newspapers
heating pad
battery-operated heating source or other appropriate heat source
extra batteries
appropriate handling gloves/supplies
Since most reptiles do not eat daily, feeding during evacuation circumstances may increase stress. Determine if feeding is in the animal's best interest, especially if the container may become fouled. Housing at the evacuation facility should be consistent with that required by the reptile. The enclosure should, if possible, be placed in a controlled environment, away from areas of heavy traffic, loud noises, and vibrations. Make sure that the container housing the retile is escape proof. Nonetheless, plan for escapes.
Amphibians: Transportation of amphibians can be accomplished by using watertight plastic bags, such as the ones used for pet fish transport, or plastic containers, such as plastic shoeboxes or plastic food containers with snap-on lids. It is best to place only one species or if possible only one animal per container. Small ventilation holes should be placed in the upper wall or plastic lid. Smooth the inner surface of the holes with a file or sandpaper to prevent injury to the animal.
For terrestrial or semi aquatic amphibians use a tiny amount of water, or moistened paper towels, clean foam rubber, or moss as a suitable substrate. For aquatic species, fill the plastic bag one third full of water, then inflate the bag with fresh air and close with a knot or rubber band. It is best to use clean water from the animal's enclosure to minimize physiologic stress. Care must be taken to monitor water and air temperature, humidity, lighting, and nutrition during the time that the animal will be in the evacuation facility. Housing at the evacuation facility should be consistent with that required by the amphibian. The enclosure should, if possible, be placed in a controlled environment, away from areas of heavy traffic, loud noises, and vibrations. Make sure that the container housing the amphibian is escape proof. Nonetheless, plan for escapes. Take an extra container of water, clean moist paper towels or clean moss as is appropriate in case any of your pet's containers break or leak. Feeding during evacuation circumstances may increase stress so it may not be in the animal's best interests to supply food, especially if the water may become fouled.
Other small animals: Transportation of most small mammals (ferrets, hamsters, gerbils, rats, mice, guinea pigs, etc.) is best accomplished using a secure, covered carrier or cage to reduce stress. In addition to the pertinent items listed under small animal evacuation kit, include:
necessary dietary supplements
extra bedding materials
appropriate exercise equipment
An Evacuation Order Has Been Issued...
Now What Do You Do?
Evacuate your family, including your animals, as early as possible. By leaving early, you will decrease the chance of becoming victims of the disaster.
Bring your dogs, cats, and other small animals indoors. Make sure all animals have some form of identification securely fastened to them (or their cage, in the case of smaller, caged pets). The utilization of permanent identification is encouraged.
Place all small pets, including cats and small dogs, inside individual transportable carriers. When stressed, animals that normally get along may become aggressive towards each other. Secure leashes on all large dogs. Load your larger animal cages/carriers into your vehicle. These will serve as temporary housing for your animals if needed. Load the animal evacuation kit and supplies into your vehicle.
Call your prearranged animal evacuation site to confirm availability of space.
Implement your equine/livestock evacuation plan. If evacuation of horses/livestock is impossible, relocate them to the safest place possible based on the type of imminent disaster and your environment, realizing that the situation could be life threatening. Make sure that they have access to hay or an appropriate and safe free-choice food source, clean water, and the safest living area possible including high ground above flood levels. Do not rely on automatic watering systems, because power may be lost. The decision to leave your horses/livestock in the field or in the barn should be based on the risks of injury resulting from the disaster as well as from the horse's/livestock's immediate environment during that disaster. Factors to consider include the stability of the barn, the risk of flooding, and the amount of trees and debris in the fields. If time permits, secure or remove all outdoor objects that may turn into dangerous flying debris.
After the Disaster:
Survey the area inside and outside your home to identify sharp objects, dangerous materials, dangerous wildlife, contaminated water, downed power lines, or other hazards. Examine your animals closely, and contact your veterinarian immediately if you observe injuries or signs of illness. Familiar scents and landmarks may have changed, and this can confuse your animals. Release equine/livestock in safe and enclosed areas only. Initial release should take place during daylight hours, when the animals can be closely observed. Release cats, dogs, and other small animals indoors only. They could encounter dangerous wildlife and debris if they are allowed outside unsupervised and unrestrained. Release birds and reptiles only if necessary and only when they are calm and in an enclosed room. Reintroduce food in small servings, gradually working up to full portions if animals have been without food for a prolonged period of time. Allow uninterrupted rest/sleep for all animals to recover from the trauma and stress. If your animals are lost, physically check animal control and animal shelters daily for lost animals. Post waterproof lost animal notices and notify local law enforcement, animal care and control officials, veterinarians, and your neighbors of any lost animals (utilize online resources for lost and found animals).
The American Veterinary Medical Association:
The American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) disaster preparedness and response efforts resulted from an agreement between the AVMA and the office of Emergency Preparedness of the U.S. Public Health Service. With the signing of a Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) in May 1993, veterinary services became incorporated into the Federal Response Plan, now known as the National Response Plan, for disaster relief as part of the National Disaster Medical System (NDMS). The completion, in August 1994, of an MOU between the AVMA and the United States Department of Agriculture/Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (USDA/APHIS) made it possible for the VMAT to assist the USDA in the control, treatment, and eradication of animal disease outbreaks. Such a response would occur under the direction of the USDA. In 1998, the AVMA and American Veterinary Medical Foundation (AVMF) signed a statement of understanding (SOU) with The American National Red Cross (ARC). In the SOU, the ARC recognizes the AVMA/AVMF as the only national organizations representing the entire profession of licensed veterinarians solely responsible for the diagnosis, treatment, health and well-being of all animals, including during periods designated as disaster relief.
The American Veterinary Medical Foundation:
Founded in 1963, the American Veterinary Medical Foundation (AVMF) is a 501(c)(3) organization that raises and disburses funds for initiatives supporting its mission statement, "Advancing the care of animals with an emphasis on disaster preparedness and response, and animal health studies". Contributions made to the AVMF are tax deductible. The AVMF Animal Disaster Relief and Response Fund provides support for emergency veterinary aid for the health, safety, and welfare of animals affected by disasters at the local level, emergency preparedness at the state level, and the Veterinary Medical Assistance Teams at the national level.
Veterinary Medical Assistance Teams:
Some disasters create a need for additional veterinary assistance. The Veterinary Medical Assistance Teams (VMAT) treat animals that are affected by or injured in disasters when the local veterinary community is overwhelmed. They are deployed when their assistance is requested by state or local officials and authorized by federal authorities. The VMAT Mission: To assist with the care of animals, animal related issues and public health during a disaster following a request from an appropriate agency. The VMAT consist of veterinarians, veterinary technicians, and other veterinary and non-veterinary support personnel who are capable of responding within 24-48 hours of notification. The VMAT are capable of addressing veterinary and public health issues associated with a disaster, and they can establish a field veterinary hospital if requested to do so. They coordinate the animal relief efforts in cooperation with emergency management, the state veterinarian, state and local veterinary medical associations, state and local officials, the local veterinary community, animal control officials, and responding humane organizations. They operate as part of the National Disaster Medical System within the National Response Plan.
For additional information about the AVMA disaster relief efforts:
AVMA
1931 N. Meacham Rd., Suite 100
Schaumburg, IL 60173-4360
847/925-8070, ext. 6632
www.avma.org/disaster
The AVMF for its continued support of AVMA disaster relief efforts
The Iams Company for its financial support of AVMF disaster relief initiatives which resulted in the initial development and distribution of this resource.
The American Association of Equine Practitioners
http://aaep.org/emergency_prep.htm
The American Association of Bovine Practitioners
http://www.aabp.org/
The Association of reptilian & Amphibian Veterinarians
www.arav.org
Association of Avian Veterinarians
http://www.aav.org
American Association of Avian Pathologists
http://www.aaap.info
Dr. kimberly May, AVMA Medical/science writer
© 2006 American Veterinary Medical Association
Prepared by Cindy S. Lovern, DVM, MS
Graphic Design by Cheryl Atkins and Sarah Jurecka
As the winds blow on
And the waters rise deep
You can hear their cries
You can hear them weep
Those you have brought into your home
Those who are loyal, caring and warm.
You feed them each day, and tell them to stay
And now when they need you, don't turn them away.
When you vowed to love, when you vowed to care
You vowed to sacrifice, and vowed to prepare.
So now in times of trouble and strife
You are responsible for more than one life.
You need to plan, think, and prepare
For all those who need you
Those who depend on your care.
— Cindy Swancott Lovern
American Veterinary Medical Association
Copyright © 2007
Friday, November 30, 2007
Mingle With The Mutts.
Mingle with the Mutts’ set for Saturday
ONA — Little Victories Animal Rescue is hosting “Mingle with the Mutts” from 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Saturday, Dec. 1, the Little Victories Farm, located at the end of Wire Branch Road. Stop at the brown house with the purple doors. Hot drinks and snacks will be served. Guests will have a chance to visit rescued dogs, cats, puppies and kittens and perhaps choose a companion. All the animals have their shots, are spayed or neutered and are healthy. E-mail btzankoff@tzankoff.com with questions or call (304) 743-5802. Leave a message and a volunteer will return your call.
ONA — Little Victories Animal Rescue is hosting “Mingle with the Mutts” from 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Saturday, Dec. 1, the Little Victories Farm, located at the end of Wire Branch Road. Stop at the brown house with the purple doors. Hot drinks and snacks will be served. Guests will have a chance to visit rescued dogs, cats, puppies and kittens and perhaps choose a companion. All the animals have their shots, are spayed or neutered and are healthy. E-mail btzankoff@tzankoff.com with questions or call (304) 743-5802. Leave a message and a volunteer will return your call.
Thursday, November 29, 2007
Remembering Your "Other" Family Member.
As you know, Christmas is coming. This is a time for rejoicing and being with family. If you are like I am, my dog, Chance, is a big part of my family. My step-son is 18 now and Christmas is really for little children, so, we will spend on Chance. My step-son just wants money so he can pick out what he wants. I saw a great article in the paper on Nov. 18Th about a boutique called Ooh LaLa in Westmoreland. I had heard about this shop from a lady that had her little poodle, Cubby, in the same obedience class as Chance at Timbral Pet Services. I haven't been to this boutique myself, but I plan to now that I have seen this article. They carry luxury items such as Juicy Couture and Ed Hardy. But, they also have outfits that fit dogs from teacup size to 100 pounds. Other items include playpens, which are great for the toy breeds, collars, stairs for the pet that isn't as spry as they used to be, and much more. If you get a chance, take a trip to Westmoreland and check them out. Remember, when buying treats, rawhide treats are O.K., but they can cause gastric problems, such as blockage, bloating, and they can cause the gums to bleed if you let your dog chew for long periods. Let your dog chew for awhile, and then take the treat and put it up, substituting with a toy. Also, any stuffed toys need careful supervision. Your dog may be a chewer/tearer and will get the stuffing out of the toy and possibly ingest it. I have a friend that had to have surgery on his German Shepherd because she decided she liked the inside better of her stuffie and tore it out and ate it. Her intestinal tract became blocked, resulting in surgery. Keeping your pet happy and healthy is so important. Remember, dogs and cats have feelings. Dogs, more than cats, actually feel left out. Dogs are pack animals, as cats are solitary creatures. But, that does not mean that they (cats) can't and don't feel left out, too. Have a great holiday and remember to give a little extra attention to your "other" family member(s).
Friday, November 23, 2007
New Toy Prissypants.
In May of this year, my sub-division at Frazier's Lane in Lesage, WV, had the community yard sale. One of my neighbors had a huge tub full of dog toys. I bought them and have given most of them to my dog and my neighbor's dog, Eli. (his picture is on this blog; the little Australian Shepherd). The others I am taking to Little Victories when I have my next meeting with Sue. Have you ever noticed how your dog acts when you give them a new toy? My dog, Chance, gets the "prissypants," as I call it. He got to get his last toy out of the bag. He rooted around, actually threw a couple out of the bag, searched around till he finally found the "right" one. He took off toward the bedroom like he had turned on his after-burner. He got on the bed and then jumped off and actually prissed through the hallway into the living room. And, when he gets a new toy, he carries it everywhere. He will even pee holding it in his mouth. It is so funny. Just thought I would share that little story. If you have a funny story, leave it as a post and I will post it.
Pit Bull Loves Chewing Bark Off Park Trees.
Pennsylvania pit bull owner could pay $3,100 for pet’s love of chewing bark off park trees. A pit bull that likes to get a lot of bark in its bite could end up costing its owner $3,100. This summer, Tyler Port allowed his dog, Rossman, to run loose in a park. The dog apparently had a habit of chewing bark off trees, and Port was cited for failure to keep the dog under control. John Iorio, the city’s dog law officer, also is seeking $3,100 to cover the cost of replacing three honey locust trees, which a consultant said may die. Port, 22, says his dog had an “infatuation” with trees and enjoyed rubbing up against them and hanging on their limbs from her teeth.
“The kids loved it, so I allowed it,” Port said. “Once someone expressed concern, it ceased.” Port said he was optimistic an agreement could be reached and the charges would be dropped.
“The kids loved it, so I allowed it,” Port said. “Once someone expressed concern, it ceased.” Port said he was optimistic an agreement could be reached and the charges would be dropped.
Thursday, November 22, 2007
Remember That Homeless Animal in Your Neighborhood.
Chance and I want to wish everyone a Happy Thanksgiving. If you see a homeless animal in your neighborhood, take a minute to give it a little food, and clean water, if possible. I know that might be asking a lot, but have you ever had a time in your life that you were alone? I have. Maybe that is why I can sympathize with these animals as much as I can and do. Happy Holidays.
Wednesday, November 21, 2007
Animal Friends Looking for Rummage Sale Donations.
Animal Friends is picking up donations for indoor rummage sales throughout the winter. A free pick-up service is provided for both large and small items. All proceeds from the sales fund Animal Friends’ no-kill shelter and free spay/neuter service. Call (304) 429-2053 for more information.
Tuesday, November 20, 2007
Vick Owes $900,000 in Dog Care Bills.
(CNN) -- The government asked a federal court Tuesday to order former Atlanta Falcons quarterback Michael Vick to keep on hand assets valued at more than $900,000 -- the amount earmarked for the care of 54 pit bulls. Michael Vick leaves court in Richmond, Viriginia, in August after pleading guilty to dogfighting charges. The animals were found on his property when a dogfighting operation was busted last April. Vick turned himself in to authorities Monday to get a jump start on serving his sentence for running the ring. In a motion filed in U.S. District Court for the Eastern District of Virginia, U.S. District Judge Henry Hudson noted that Vick, in his plea agreement, agreed to pay "restitution for the full amount of the costs associated with the disposition of all dogs" in the case. Vick agreed that those costs could include "the long-term care and/or the humane euthanasia of some or all of those animals," which were seized from the "Bad Newz Kennels" on his property in Surry County, Virginia. The motion said that only a restraining order can ensure that Vick's assets are not placed beyond the reach of the government. It noted that Vick's financial condition is deteriorating, and cited the team's attempt to recoup bonus money from his 10-year, $130 million 2004 football contract; his alleged default on a $1.3 million bank loan for a wine store; another bank lawsuit seeking payment for default on a $2.5 million line of credit; and yet another bank's lawsuit seeking at least $2 million for loans related to a car-rental business. "In addition, published reports also indicate that Vick is in the process of selling assets, specifically a suburban Atlanta home listed at $4.5 million," it said. Vick, 27, is being held at Northern Neck Regional Jail in Warsaw, Virginia, until an upcoming sentencing hearing. He pleaded guilty in August to a federal conspiracy charge of bankrolling the dogfighting operation after three associates admitted their own roles in the ring and agreed to cooperate with prosecutors. Vick, who has been suspended indefinitely by NFL Commissioner Roger Goodell, faces 12to 18 months in prison on the conspiracy charge. The sentencing hearing is scheduled for December 10. On September 25, a Virginia grand jury indicted Vick and the three co-defendants on state charges of running a dogfighting ring. The Surry County grand jury brought two felony charges against the four men: one count of unlawfully torturing and killing dogs and one of promoting dogfights. Each could result in a five-year prison term.
Think Before You Give Left-overs To Your Dog.
QUESTION: Can certain foods that are safe for humans be toxic to dogs?
DR. BINGHAM: You might be surprised at how seemingly innocuous foods and beverages can be harmful, even fatal, to the family dog, depending on the dog’s size and how much is eaten. With the holidays on the way, it’s more important than ever to be aware of the risks.
Chocolate – A treasured treat for us, chocolate can be fatal to dogs. Containing a chemical called theobromine, even small amounts can lead to a problem.
Onions – Halitosis aside, onions can cause hemolytic anemia, a condition that destroys a dog’s red blood cells. And they can have a cumulative effect.
Macadamia nuts – Experts are not sure why just yet, but just a few Macadamia nuts can induce tremors and even temporary weakness in a dog’s hind legs.
Coffee – Caffeine is a methylxanthine compound which can increase a dog’s heart rate and trigger seizures.
Alcohol – Don’t let your Beagle belly up to the bar – alcohol depresses brain function and can cause a coma.
While your dog may find the same foods as appetizing as you, it doesn’t mean they’ll be just as safe for him. When in doubt it’s always wiser to reward your canine with real dog treats or dog food, not human fare.
If you have a question for Dr. Bingham, please send it to DrB@biljac.com.
DR. BINGHAM: You might be surprised at how seemingly innocuous foods and beverages can be harmful, even fatal, to the family dog, depending on the dog’s size and how much is eaten. With the holidays on the way, it’s more important than ever to be aware of the risks.
Chocolate – A treasured treat for us, chocolate can be fatal to dogs. Containing a chemical called theobromine, even small amounts can lead to a problem.
Onions – Halitosis aside, onions can cause hemolytic anemia, a condition that destroys a dog’s red blood cells. And they can have a cumulative effect.
Macadamia nuts – Experts are not sure why just yet, but just a few Macadamia nuts can induce tremors and even temporary weakness in a dog’s hind legs.
Coffee – Caffeine is a methylxanthine compound which can increase a dog’s heart rate and trigger seizures.
Alcohol – Don’t let your Beagle belly up to the bar – alcohol depresses brain function and can cause a coma.
While your dog may find the same foods as appetizing as you, it doesn’t mean they’ll be just as safe for him. When in doubt it’s always wiser to reward your canine with real dog treats or dog food, not human fare.
If you have a question for Dr. Bingham, please send it to DrB@biljac.com.
Monday, November 19, 2007
Little Victories to Host Benefit Dinner.
BARBOURSVILLE -- Little Victories Animal Rescue Group will be sponsoring a benefit dinner to raise funds to complete the construction of its no-kill animal sanctuary in Ona. The dinner will be held on Monday, Nov. 26, at Rocco's Ristorante, located at 252 Main St., Ceredo. Reservations are required and are available by calling Buck Crews at (304) 529-2391. Tickets cost $65. I know this seems like a lot of money for a dinner, but winter is coming fast, and there are many, many, many homeless animals that need help. Finishing the shelter means that these animals will have a chance at a new life. Sue Brown and the many volunteers work so hard trying to save them all. With your help, they, and you, will make a great difference.
Thursday, November 15, 2007
Vicious Dog Law.
We’ve been telling you for the last couple of months the city of Logan is stepping up their vicious dog ordinance. Enforcement of new laws will start next week. November 20th, which is next Tuesday, is the last day you have to register your dog.
The breeds that fit the requirement are Pit Bulls, Doberman Pinchers, Rottweilers or any dog of the Wolfe species. There is a fee of $300 to register the animal. If the dog is not registered by the Tuesday deadline the city will quarantine the dog.
The breeds that fit the requirement are Pit Bulls, Doberman Pinchers, Rottweilers or any dog of the Wolfe species. There is a fee of $300 to register the animal. If the dog is not registered by the Tuesday deadline the city will quarantine the dog.
Thursday, November 8, 2007
Genetics.
Inbreeding, Linebreeding and Crossbreeding in Dogs:
Some animal breeders, including many dog breeders, make a distinction between inbreeding (mating mother/son, father/daughter, brother/sister) and linebreeding(mating say grandparent/grandchild, aunt/nephew). To a geneticist linebreeding and inbreeding only differ in degree. Inbreeding occurs when animals are bred to their relatives. The closer the relationship the higher the "inbreeding coefficient". Inbreeding coefficients measure the degree of inbreeding an animal shows relative to a randomly breeding population. Inbreeding reduces fertility, vigour or overall health and mental stability. Inbred animals are more prone to diseases such as infections and cancer, and more likely to be "highly strung". To understand why this happens we need to consider basic genetics: All animals, including people and dogs, carry two copies of each gene - one from our mother and one from our father. These genes are unique sequences of DNA, each of which codes for a unique protein. Changes in the DNA code (called mutations) change the structure of the protein produced by the gene and as a result change the way the protein works. Because evolution has for millions of years selected for perfection of performance most changes or mutations are less effective than the original gene copy. The chance of having an abnormal copy, or mutation, of any one particular gene is low, but because we have so many genes we all carry some harmful genes. These genes are usually hidden because we have one good copy of the gene to carry us through and this gene produces a normal protein which can perform the tasks required. When we have two different copies of a gene we are said to be HETEROZYGOUS for that gene and if one gene copy is hidden by the other, the hidden copy is said to be RECESSIVE. If both copies of a gene are the same then we are HOMOZYGOUS and if the copy is "bad" then that gene won't work normally and we will be to some degree less healthy. Some single genes are so important that affected animals die, or suffer debilitating disease and some have only minor effects - affecting for example jaw structure or coat colour, the efficiency of an antibody molecule, the structure of a neurotransmitter or the shape of a red blood cell. As animals are mated to their relatives, however distant, simple mathematics will show that the likelyhood of any one gene becoming homozygous will increase. As homozygosity increases, variation among offspring decreases. The dog breeder takes advantage of this in line breeding to produce a breed which "breeds true" and conforms to a "breed standard" and within the breed to produce offspring that are like peas in a pod. Breeders look for a "prepotent" sire or bitch ( ie one that always throws pups very similar to itself). These animals come from a "good linebred pedigree" - that is one that is inbred so that the animal is homozygous for as many as possible of the characteristics that the breeder regards as desirable. Unfortunately this search for perfection and uniformity comes at a cost. Undesirable genes also become increasingly likely to be homozygous and so affect the health of the animal. Most of these genes have minor effects which gradually accumulate. There are many genes involved in traits like fertility, immune competence and mental stability and accumulation of homozygous recessive "bad" genes gradually diminishes the function of these systems. If inbreeding increases homozygosity, crossbreeding is its opposite and maximises heterozygosity. Crossbreeding is the mainstay of most farm animal and plant production - it takes advantage of a phenomenon which is widely talked about but poorly understood: HYBRID VIGOUR (or for the geneticists - HETEROSIS) is the term used to describe the burst of fertility, good health and growth that is seen in the progeny when two unrelated breeds are mated. The longer that these breeds have been separated, and the greater the differences between them, the stronger will be the resulting hybrid vigour. Hybrid vigour is not a theory, it is the name given to describe something that happens repeatably throughout all species in the animal and plant kingdom. When unrelated breeds of any animal species are mated the offspring in the first generation will be more healthy, fertile, and (in animals) mentally stable than either parent breed. This first F1 (Filial1) generation as the geneticists call it, will be intermediate in characterisics to the parent breeds and the offspring will resemble each other. Lets look at how this works using a simple model with only 9 genes. (Note that a convention in genetics is that small case letters are used to denote recessive genes and large case letters are used to denote dominant genes.) Say we have a dog of breed (A) which always has has long ears (aaBB), Short legs (CCdd), black coat (EE) and, by chance because of years of breeding within a small gene pool, has the "fertility" genes FF gg hh II. The bitch of breed (B) has short ears (AAbb), long legs (ccDD) a gold coat (ee) and, again by chance, the "fertility" genes ff GG HH ii. The cross would look like this:
(A)
aa BB CC dd EE FF gg hh II
X
(B)
AA bb cc DD ee ff GG HH ii
Producing an F1
Aa Bb Cc Dd Ee Ff Gg Hh Ii
These offspring will have medium ears (A-B-) and medium length legs (C-D-). They will be black (Ee) because only one gene is involved and black is dominant to gold, and they will be more fertile than either parent. Genes for mental stability and "vigour" - like these fertility genes - become more homozygous with inbreeding and in the first cross will be as heterozygous as it is possible with that breed combination. This example oversimplifies matters - in reality thousands of genes are involved, dominance/recessive relationships are not that simple and different breeds have many genes in common, however it does demonstrate the way in which hybrid vigour works and why the F1 progeny are similar to each other. The degree of similarity in the F1 progeny will, as in purebreeding, depend on how homozygous the parent breeds are. Certainly if two animals of different breeds are mated and if both parents are highly strung, and if this nervous behavious is genetically based, and if the same genes are involved in both parents, then crossbred progeny will probably also be highly strung or neurotic. Clearly however this is less likely than if these two animals are of the same breed and related in some way. This example can also be used to show why hybrid vigour only works in the first generation and why "mongrels" or "mutts" come in all shapes and sizes. While our theoretical F1 - produced from highly homozygous parents, has only one genetic combination possible, if an F1 was crossed with another F1 there would be many hundreds of possible combinations produced in the "F2" generation. These offspring would range from almost the same as one grandparent to almost the same as the other, with every possible combination in between and while most of these would be more heterozygous than the grandparent generation most of them would be less heterozygous than the parent F1s. It is possible to prevent this deterioration in health and vigour by limiting linebreeding and by selecting rigourously for highly fertile, vigorous, long lived, mentally stable animals. Responsible, intelligent dog breeders do just that. Unfortunately the the problem arises - what does one do with the less healthy, vigorous, and mentally stable animals? The answer in livestock breeding is that they are sold to an abbatoir - in purebred dog breeding they are usually sold as pets.
Another feature of crossbreeding used in livestock breeding is "complementarity" -the term used to describe the way two breeds can be combined to overcome defects in one or other breed - the way two bloodlines "nick" in dog breeding terms. The example which is commonly applied in cattle is the crossing of a dairy cow with a beef breed to produce a calf which has hybrid vigour and will be fertile healthy and fast growing. The heifer calf will also have better muscling than the dairy parent and better milk production than the beef parent and in this way the two breeds are complementary. Should the heifer calf be retained for breeding she could be backcrossed to either parent breed or - as is more commonly practiced - bred to a third breed in a "three breed rotation" which will retain the benefits of hybrid vigour, complementarity and reliable uniformity in the offspring. I am a country veterinarian and for a long time I have been aware of the trouble that purebred dog breeders are unintentionally getting their animals into. The practice of closing the stud book once a breed is "recognised" is, to me, a practice which benefits dog breeders but works to the detriment of the breed. I am not a traditional dog breeder and my bias is towards breeding dogs as life enriching companions for people rather than breeding dogs to preserve animals of an idealized type in perpetuity. I have chosen to breed Labradoodles for reasons outlined elsewhere. I believe that there is scope for other crossbred dogs to be deliberately bred. I realise that this approach to dog breeding is frowned on but I think that by creative application of crossbreeding new breed combinations can be produced which bring together desirable characteristics from different breeds. There is no reason why breeds of dogs should be treated as if they are separate (and increasingly endangered) species as is presently the case. The challenge is to develop checklist of desirable characteristics and then find the breeds most likely to complement each other. Complementary breeds should not share common structural problems, such as Hip Dysplasia, or Luxating Patellae and should have temperament characteristics which combine well. Single gene problems such as Haemophilia or Progressive Retinal Atrophy would still need to be screened for if they occurred in both parent breeds but carriers are not be a problem in this system because the progeny are not be bred from. Remember that the second generation is likely to be more variable and have less hybrid vigour than the F1 so breeding F1 to F1 is unwise unless the breeder is trying to create a new breed and doesn't mind breeding a lot of funny looking , and possibly unsatisfactory, dogs on the way. I don't want to create a new breed or produce puppies which are all identical - only puppies which are all healthy, intelligent, full of personality and with attributed which make them good family pets.
Some animal breeders, including many dog breeders, make a distinction between inbreeding (mating mother/son, father/daughter, brother/sister) and linebreeding(mating say grandparent/grandchild, aunt/nephew). To a geneticist linebreeding and inbreeding only differ in degree. Inbreeding occurs when animals are bred to their relatives. The closer the relationship the higher the "inbreeding coefficient". Inbreeding coefficients measure the degree of inbreeding an animal shows relative to a randomly breeding population. Inbreeding reduces fertility, vigour or overall health and mental stability. Inbred animals are more prone to diseases such as infections and cancer, and more likely to be "highly strung". To understand why this happens we need to consider basic genetics: All animals, including people and dogs, carry two copies of each gene - one from our mother and one from our father. These genes are unique sequences of DNA, each of which codes for a unique protein. Changes in the DNA code (called mutations) change the structure of the protein produced by the gene and as a result change the way the protein works. Because evolution has for millions of years selected for perfection of performance most changes or mutations are less effective than the original gene copy. The chance of having an abnormal copy, or mutation, of any one particular gene is low, but because we have so many genes we all carry some harmful genes. These genes are usually hidden because we have one good copy of the gene to carry us through and this gene produces a normal protein which can perform the tasks required. When we have two different copies of a gene we are said to be HETEROZYGOUS for that gene and if one gene copy is hidden by the other, the hidden copy is said to be RECESSIVE. If both copies of a gene are the same then we are HOMOZYGOUS and if the copy is "bad" then that gene won't work normally and we will be to some degree less healthy. Some single genes are so important that affected animals die, or suffer debilitating disease and some have only minor effects - affecting for example jaw structure or coat colour, the efficiency of an antibody molecule, the structure of a neurotransmitter or the shape of a red blood cell. As animals are mated to their relatives, however distant, simple mathematics will show that the likelyhood of any one gene becoming homozygous will increase. As homozygosity increases, variation among offspring decreases. The dog breeder takes advantage of this in line breeding to produce a breed which "breeds true" and conforms to a "breed standard" and within the breed to produce offspring that are like peas in a pod. Breeders look for a "prepotent" sire or bitch ( ie one that always throws pups very similar to itself). These animals come from a "good linebred pedigree" - that is one that is inbred so that the animal is homozygous for as many as possible of the characteristics that the breeder regards as desirable. Unfortunately this search for perfection and uniformity comes at a cost. Undesirable genes also become increasingly likely to be homozygous and so affect the health of the animal. Most of these genes have minor effects which gradually accumulate. There are many genes involved in traits like fertility, immune competence and mental stability and accumulation of homozygous recessive "bad" genes gradually diminishes the function of these systems. If inbreeding increases homozygosity, crossbreeding is its opposite and maximises heterozygosity. Crossbreeding is the mainstay of most farm animal and plant production - it takes advantage of a phenomenon which is widely talked about but poorly understood: HYBRID VIGOUR (or for the geneticists - HETEROSIS) is the term used to describe the burst of fertility, good health and growth that is seen in the progeny when two unrelated breeds are mated. The longer that these breeds have been separated, and the greater the differences between them, the stronger will be the resulting hybrid vigour. Hybrid vigour is not a theory, it is the name given to describe something that happens repeatably throughout all species in the animal and plant kingdom. When unrelated breeds of any animal species are mated the offspring in the first generation will be more healthy, fertile, and (in animals) mentally stable than either parent breed. This first F1 (Filial1) generation as the geneticists call it, will be intermediate in characterisics to the parent breeds and the offspring will resemble each other. Lets look at how this works using a simple model with only 9 genes. (Note that a convention in genetics is that small case letters are used to denote recessive genes and large case letters are used to denote dominant genes.) Say we have a dog of breed (A) which always has has long ears (aaBB), Short legs (CCdd), black coat (EE) and, by chance because of years of breeding within a small gene pool, has the "fertility" genes FF gg hh II. The bitch of breed (B) has short ears (AAbb), long legs (ccDD) a gold coat (ee) and, again by chance, the "fertility" genes ff GG HH ii. The cross would look like this:
(A)
aa BB CC dd EE FF gg hh II
X
(B)
AA bb cc DD ee ff GG HH ii
Producing an F1
Aa Bb Cc Dd Ee Ff Gg Hh Ii
These offspring will have medium ears (A-B-) and medium length legs (C-D-). They will be black (Ee) because only one gene is involved and black is dominant to gold, and they will be more fertile than either parent. Genes for mental stability and "vigour" - like these fertility genes - become more homozygous with inbreeding and in the first cross will be as heterozygous as it is possible with that breed combination. This example oversimplifies matters - in reality thousands of genes are involved, dominance/recessive relationships are not that simple and different breeds have many genes in common, however it does demonstrate the way in which hybrid vigour works and why the F1 progeny are similar to each other. The degree of similarity in the F1 progeny will, as in purebreeding, depend on how homozygous the parent breeds are. Certainly if two animals of different breeds are mated and if both parents are highly strung, and if this nervous behavious is genetically based, and if the same genes are involved in both parents, then crossbred progeny will probably also be highly strung or neurotic. Clearly however this is less likely than if these two animals are of the same breed and related in some way. This example can also be used to show why hybrid vigour only works in the first generation and why "mongrels" or "mutts" come in all shapes and sizes. While our theoretical F1 - produced from highly homozygous parents, has only one genetic combination possible, if an F1 was crossed with another F1 there would be many hundreds of possible combinations produced in the "F2" generation. These offspring would range from almost the same as one grandparent to almost the same as the other, with every possible combination in between and while most of these would be more heterozygous than the grandparent generation most of them would be less heterozygous than the parent F1s. It is possible to prevent this deterioration in health and vigour by limiting linebreeding and by selecting rigourously for highly fertile, vigorous, long lived, mentally stable animals. Responsible, intelligent dog breeders do just that. Unfortunately the the problem arises - what does one do with the less healthy, vigorous, and mentally stable animals? The answer in livestock breeding is that they are sold to an abbatoir - in purebred dog breeding they are usually sold as pets.
Another feature of crossbreeding used in livestock breeding is "complementarity" -the term used to describe the way two breeds can be combined to overcome defects in one or other breed - the way two bloodlines "nick" in dog breeding terms. The example which is commonly applied in cattle is the crossing of a dairy cow with a beef breed to produce a calf which has hybrid vigour and will be fertile healthy and fast growing. The heifer calf will also have better muscling than the dairy parent and better milk production than the beef parent and in this way the two breeds are complementary. Should the heifer calf be retained for breeding she could be backcrossed to either parent breed or - as is more commonly practiced - bred to a third breed in a "three breed rotation" which will retain the benefits of hybrid vigour, complementarity and reliable uniformity in the offspring. I am a country veterinarian and for a long time I have been aware of the trouble that purebred dog breeders are unintentionally getting their animals into. The practice of closing the stud book once a breed is "recognised" is, to me, a practice which benefits dog breeders but works to the detriment of the breed. I am not a traditional dog breeder and my bias is towards breeding dogs as life enriching companions for people rather than breeding dogs to preserve animals of an idealized type in perpetuity. I have chosen to breed Labradoodles for reasons outlined elsewhere. I believe that there is scope for other crossbred dogs to be deliberately bred. I realise that this approach to dog breeding is frowned on but I think that by creative application of crossbreeding new breed combinations can be produced which bring together desirable characteristics from different breeds. There is no reason why breeds of dogs should be treated as if they are separate (and increasingly endangered) species as is presently the case. The challenge is to develop checklist of desirable characteristics and then find the breeds most likely to complement each other. Complementary breeds should not share common structural problems, such as Hip Dysplasia, or Luxating Patellae and should have temperament characteristics which combine well. Single gene problems such as Haemophilia or Progressive Retinal Atrophy would still need to be screened for if they occurred in both parent breeds but carriers are not be a problem in this system because the progeny are not be bred from. Remember that the second generation is likely to be more variable and have less hybrid vigour than the F1 so breeding F1 to F1 is unwise unless the breeder is trying to create a new breed and doesn't mind breeding a lot of funny looking , and possibly unsatisfactory, dogs on the way. I don't want to create a new breed or produce puppies which are all identical - only puppies which are all healthy, intelligent, full of personality and with attributed which make them good family pets.
Wednesday, October 31, 2007
Consider this Post before Buying a Dog Registered by the Continental Kennel Club.
If both parents are A.K.C. there is no reason NOT to register the puppies. CKC stands for Continental Kennel Club. It also stands for Canadian Kennel Club. Now the Canadian Kennel Club is an excellent registry and it works just like A.K.C. does. But Continental Kennel Club in Walker, Louisiana, also calls itself the CKC. And most dogs that are registered with CKC in the U.S. are registered with Continental Kennel Club. Now, just think about a registry that would use call letters that are identical to another well know registry. Think about that for a while. With CKC they do not require that dogs be DNA tested, so you don't know if the pups come from the parents the breeder says or not. With A.K.C. you know for sure because there is DNA testing. A.K.C. implemented the Frequent Sire Program in 2003. This requires a breeder to DNA test their sires if that sire has more than 3 litters within a calendar year. Before 2003, they (A.K.C.) only required the breeder to test the sire after the 6th litter. With A.K.C. you can't pick up a dog on the side of the road and register it. With CKC you can. With A.K.C. you can't breed a Great Dane to Doberman and call it a new breed; i. e. the Great Doberman, and you can do this with CKC. See there is a big difference. Many times when people can't get dogs registered by A.K.C. they go to CKC. because CKC is so loose with their rules. So the puppy you are buying might grow up to look like the parents or it might not. It might grow up to be as big as a whippet or have ears that stand straight up, etc. And people that don't breed, don't know what puppies are supposed to look like so they can be fooled. They see a cute puppy and they buy it, but when it is grown it doesn't look like the breed it is supposed to be or it is too big. If the breeder has papers on both parents there is no reason the breeder should not register it with A.K.C., because the overwhelming majority of breeders in the U.S. would rather all their dogs be A.K.C. registered. The reason some of these new registries are popping up is because some years back A.K.C. required breeders to DNA their dogs. It is a rule. So if you buy a puppy from an A.K.C. breeder and the puppy doesn't turn out to look like an Italian Greyhound, you can contact the A.K.C. And then they will DNA your puppy and if it doesn't match the DNA records they have on the parents of the puppy the breeder will NO longer be able to register with A.K.C. at all. Now, there are some people who can NO longer register with A.K.C. because they have committed fraudulent actions with their breeding and registry records, and when A.K.C. catches them they can NO longer register their dogs with A.K.C. at all. And just remember a registry is what it says. It registers dogs. I can become a registry today. All I have to do is start a website and call myself the World Canine Registry (and there might already be one called that, there are so many out there these days), advertise how much it costs to register dogs and people will start registering with me. Even if I don't keep good records or have rules that are so lax that there aren't any rules at all. Because all some people care about are PAPERS. Many people don't know what papers mean. Many people just want to be able to say "MY DOG HAS PAPERS!!!!!". Registration papers mean a lot. They mean that for 8 generations or more an IG(Italian Greyhound) was bred to an IG (Italian Greyhound), so what you have is an IG (Italian Greyhound.) With an A.K.C. registered IG (Italian Greyhound), you can go back many, many generations to see the lineage of the puppy you buy. That is what a good registry does. It registers dogs for years and years. And it doesn't allow dogs that someone says is a Cocker Spaniel be registered as a Cocker Spaniel just because the owner says that is what it is. So, the only registry in the USA that stands behind it's papers scientifically with DNA is A.K.C. The registry with the best and longest reputation in the USA is A.K.C. The registry that offers the most for the pet owner, breeder, show dog, obedience dog, tracking dog, fly ball dog, etc. etc. etc. is A.K.C. And it has been that way for years. When puppies are cheaper than everyone elses there is usually a problem. Buying the cheapest puppy is never a good idea. Do not buy from anyone that advertises on the Internet, or buy from a pet shop such as Petland in So. Point, OH. They order their dogs. I know this because I called and talked to the manager and was told this personally. This is usually indicative of a puppy mill. Always, always ask if the parents are on site. If not, then don't buy. If only one parent is on site, ask where the other one is being housed and go see it. Always ask to see the registration papers on both parents, and ask the breeder to show you the grandparents lineage too.
I have done more research on this subject. I spoke to a representative of A.K.C. and asked questions about the CKC. I was told that this registry is valid, but does not have the strict breeding regulations that A.K.C. does. I was informed that this does not mean they are fake, just not as good as A.K.C. There is a good chance that the dog you are buying that is registered by this agency will have health concerns. The representative told me that there have been a rash of registries showing up across the nation. To be sure that the dog you are buying has no health issues, make sure that the puppy has been vet checked by the breeder, and then take the dog to your vet to have a thorough check-up. The CKC(Continental Kennel Club) just requires a person to send a picture of the breeding pair in order to get it registered. If you have concerns about the breeder, and they are saying that the parents are A.K.C. registered, you can go to the A.K.C. website and either email them or call them directly with your concerns. The website is: www.akc.org.
I have done more research on this subject. I spoke to a representative of A.K.C. and asked questions about the CKC. I was told that this registry is valid, but does not have the strict breeding regulations that A.K.C. does. I was informed that this does not mean they are fake, just not as good as A.K.C. There is a good chance that the dog you are buying that is registered by this agency will have health concerns. The representative told me that there have been a rash of registries showing up across the nation. To be sure that the dog you are buying has no health issues, make sure that the puppy has been vet checked by the breeder, and then take the dog to your vet to have a thorough check-up. The CKC(Continental Kennel Club) just requires a person to send a picture of the breeding pair in order to get it registered. If you have concerns about the breeder, and they are saying that the parents are A.K.C. registered, you can go to the A.K.C. website and either email them or call them directly with your concerns. The website is: www.akc.org.
Tuesday, October 23, 2007
The Breed Groups Recognized By A.K.C.
Dogs of the herding group have in common the desire and ability to control the movements of other animals, most often sheep and cattle. In some species, this is accomplished by stalking and staring, in others by barking and in others by nipping. Some herders have gathering tendencies, whereas others have driving tendencies. All have in common the ability to work using both their owner's commands and their own judgment. Herding breeds make intelligent and devoted partners.
The dogs of the herding group:
Australian Cattle Dog:
AKC Ranking: 73
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: Australia
Date of Origin: 1800s
Original Function: cattle herding
Today's Function: cattle herding, herding trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 18-20 Weight: 35-45
Avg Size of Female: Height: 17-19 Weight: 35-45
Other Name: Queensland heeler, blue heeler, Hall's heeler
History:
In the early 1800s, vast land areas in Australia became available for grazing cattle. The cattle raised on these lands became so wild and intractable that the traditional European herding breeds that had proved satisfactory on tamer cattle were no longer suited for the job. A dog was needed that could withstand traveling long distances over rough terrain in hot weather and that could control cattle without barking (which only served to make wild cattle wilder). In 1840, a man named Hall bred some smooth blue-merle Highland collies to dingos, producing a strain known as Hall's heelers. One particularly influential stud was a dog named Bentley's dog, who is credited with stamping the white blaze found on the head of Australian cattle dogs today. Other breeders crossed their Hall's heelers with other breeds, including the bull terrier, Dalmatian and, later, black-and-tan kelpie, a sheep-herding breed. The result was a dog with the herding instincts of the collie and kelpie; the endurance, ruggedness and quiet style of the dingo; and the horse sense and protectiveness of the Dalmatian, all with a distinctively patterned coat. As the dogs became increasingly vital to the cattle industry of Queensland, they gained the name Queensland blue heeler. They later became known as Australian heeler, and then Australian cattle dog. A standard for the breed, emphasizing its dingo characteristics, was drawn up in 1897. The Australian cattle dog was slow to catch on in America, however, perhaps because it bore little resemblance to established herding breeds. When given a chance, it proved its merits and was welcomed as a herder and pet. The AKC recognized the breed in 1980, and it has since become a capable show dog, without sacrificing its functional makeup.
Temperament:
Smart, hardy, independent, stubborn, tenacious, energetic and untiring — these are all traits essential to a driver of headstrong cattle, and all traits of the Australian cattle dog. This dog must have a job to do or it will expend its efforts on unacceptable jobs of its own. Given challenging mental and hard physical exercise daily, it is among the most responsive and obedient of dogs, an exemplary partner in adventure. It tends to nip at the heels of running children.
Upkeep:
The Australian cattle dog was bred to be active and tireless. This dog needs a lot of physical and mental activity, more than a simple walk on a leash can provide. A good jog or long workout, coupled with obedience lessons or other intellectual challenges, is essential every day. It is happiest when it has a job to perform, and especially when that job is herding. The Australian cattle dog can live outdoors in temperate to cool climates. It is unsuited for apartment life. Its coat needs brushing or combing weekly to remove dead hairs.
Health:
• Major concerns: CHD, OCD, deafness, PRA
• Minor concerns: none
• Occasionally seen: cataract, lens luxation, PPM, vWD
• Suggested tests: hip, hearing, eye
• Life span: 10 – 13 years
Form and Function:
The Australian cattle dog is of moderate build, enabling it to combine great endurance with bursts of speed and the extreme agility necessary in controlling unruly cattle. It is sturdy and compact, slightly longer than it is tall. Its gait is supple and tireless, and it must be capable of quick and sudden movement. Its ability to stop quickly is aided by the rudderlike action of its tail (which is never docked). Its weather-resistant coat consists of a short, dense undercoat and moderately short, straight outer coat of medium texture.
Australian shepherd:
AKC Ranking: 34
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: United States
Date of Origin: 1800s
Original Function: sheep herding
Today's Function: sheep herding, herding trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 20-23 Weight: 50-65
Avg Size of Female: Height: 18-21 Weight: 40-55
Other Name: none
History:
The Australian shepherd is not really an Australian breed, but it came to America by way of Australia. One popular theory of the breed's origin begins during the 1800s, when the Basque people of Europe settled in Australia, bringing with them their sheep and sheepdogs. Shortly thereafter, many of these shepherds relocated to the western United States, with their dogs and sheep. American shepherds naturally dubbed these dogs Australian shepherds because that was their immediate past residence. The rugged area of Australia and western America placed demands on the herding dogs that they had not faced in Europe, but through various crosses and rigorous selection for working ability, the Basque dog soon adapted and excelled under these harsh conditions. The breed kept a low profile until the 1950s, when it was featured in a popular trick-dog act that performed in rodeos and was featured in film. Many of these dogs, owned by Jay Sisler, can be found in the pedigrees of today's Aussies. The first Aussie was registered with the International English Shepherd Registry, now known as the National Stock Dog Registry. In 1957 the Australian Shepherd Club of America was formed and subsequently became the largest Aussie registry in America. Because many ASCA members felt that AKC recognition was not desirable for their breed, proponents of AKC recognition formed the United States Australian Shepherd Association. The AKC recognized the Australian shepherd in 1993. Its popularity according to AKC statistics underestimates the popularity of this breed as a pet because a large proportion of this working breed remains unregistered with the AKC. It is among the most versatile of breeds, excelling at conformation, obedience, herding and agility competition. The Aussie is also adept at working cattle; in fact, some believe its close working style is more suited to cattle than to sheep.
Temperament:
The Australian shepherd has a great deal of stamina and is loving, bold, alert, confident, independent, smart and responsive. If it doesn't get a chance to exercise and challenge its strongly developed mental and physical activities, it is apt to become frustrated and difficult to live with. With proper exercise and training, it is a loyal, utterly devoted and obedient companion. It is reserved with strangers and has a protective nature. It may try to herd children and small animals by nipping.
Upkeep:
This breed needs a good workout every day, preferably combining both physical and mental challenges. Even though it is physically able to live outside in temperate climates, it is a breed for which human contact is so vital that it is emotionally unsuited for a life in the yard. Its coat needs brushing or combing one to two times weekly.
Health:
• Major concerns: cataract, CEA
• Minor concerns: CHD, nasal solar dermatitis, Pelger – Huet syndrome, iris coloboma
• Occasionally seen: lumbar sacral syndrome, epilepsy, PRA, vWD, distichiasis, PDA, PPM
• Suggested tests: hip, eye
• Life span: 12 – 15 years
• Note: This breed is often sensitive to ivermectin; however, the dosage for heartworm preventive is considered safe. Merle-to-merle breedings result in some offspring that are homozygous merle, which is detrimental to health, commonly resulting in deafness and blindness. Natural bobtail-to-natural bobtail breedings can result in some offspring with serious spinal defects.
Form and Function:
This is an athletic dog of medium size and bone; it is lithe, agile and slightly longer than it is tall. It is muscular and powerful enough to work all day, without sacrificing the speed and agility necessary to cope with bolting livestock. Its gait is free and easy, and it must be able to change direction or speed instantly. Its double coat is weather resistant, with the outer coat of medium texture and length, straight to wavy. The expression is keen, intelligent and eager.
Bearded Collie:
AKC Ranking: 101
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: Scotland
Date of Origin: 1800s
Original Function: sheep herding
Today's Function: herding trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 21-22 Weight: 45-55
Avg Size of Female: Height: 20-21 Weight: 45-55
Other Name: none
History:
The bearded collie probably originated from the central European Magyar komondor or lowland Polish sheepdog. In fact, records show that in 1514 two lowland Polish sheepdogs were brought to Scotland by Polish traders. Although dogs strongly resembling bearded collies are depicted in art dating from the 18th century, hard evidence of the breed cannot be found until the early-19th century, when the first breed description was published. These dogs were tireless herders of sheep and drovers of cattle over rough terrain in the cold Scottish mists. Long popular as a herding dog in Scotland, after the Victorian era the breed also gained favor as a show dog. Two strains, the border strain, which was brown and white with a slightly wavy coat, and the Highland strain, which had a gray and white coat, have since been interbred and merged into one breed. After World War I, the "beardie" was once again bred solely for work. Their value as stock dogs made it difficult for outsiders to acquire one from their shepherd owners. Eventually, however, a few breeders interested in showing beardies were able to bring some dogs to England and then to America. The AKC recognized the breed in 1977. It has since become a prominent show dog and continues as a capable herder, although it is more popular as a competitor in herding trials than as an actual working dog.
Temperament:
The boisterous beardie is lively and playful, full of enthusiasm and energy. It is smart and obedient, but it is an independent thinker with a clownish sense of humor. It likes children, but it may be too rambunctious for small children and may try to herd them when playing.
Upkeep:
This active dog needs either a good jog, a very long walk or a vigorous play session every day. It especially enjoys herding. The beardie can live outside in cool climates, but it is happier when allowed access to the house with its family. Its long coat needs brushing or combing every other day.
Health:
• Major concerns: none
• Minor concerns: CHD, epilepsy, colonic disease, pemphigus
• Occasionally seen: CHD, aortic stenosis, PRA, PPM, cataract, vWD
• Suggested tests: hip, (eye), (cardiac)
• Life span: 12 – 14 years
Form and Function:
The beardie is a medium-sized dog with a long, lean, strongly made body, which gives the impression of both strength and agility. Its gait is supple and powerful, with good reach and drive. The ability to make sharp turns, quick starts and sudden stops is essential in a sheep-herding breed, and the beardie must be able to keep this activity up for a long period of time under all conditions. Its coat is double with a soft, furry undercoat. The outer coat is flat, harsh and fairly straight; it is sufficient to protect the dog but not so much as to obscure the dog's lines. The beardie's expression is bright and inquiring.
Beauceron:
AKC Ranking: n/a
Family: Herding
Area of Origin: France
Date of Origin: 1500s
Original Function: Herder, guardian
Today's Function: Herder, guardian, police
Avg Size of male: Height: 25.5 - 27.5 Weight: 65 - 85
Avg Size of Female: Height: 24.5 - 26.5 Weight: 65 - 85
Other Name: Berger de Beauce, Bas-Rouge
History:
The Beauceron is an entirely French breed, dating back as far as the late 1500s. It originated in the plains area surrounding Paris known as La Beauce. The largest of the French sheepdogs, it was used as a general-purpose farm dog, driving and protecting sheep and sometimes, cattle, and guarding its family. In 1863, two types of plains flock-herding and guarding dogs were differentiated: the long-coated Berger de Brie (Briard) and the short-coated Berger de Beauce (Beauceron). The Societe Centrale Canine registered the first Berger de Beauce in 1893, and the first breed club was formed in 1922. Well known as the preferred herding dog in France, the breed remained virtually unknown outside of France. The French army employed Beaucerons as messenger dogs on the front lines during both world wars. The breed's extraordinary ability to follow directions, follow trails, and detect mines still makes them a respected military and police dog. They also serve their families as protection dogs. In the 1960s, a concerted effort was made to preserve the qualities of native French breeds, and since that time, the Beauceron?s popularity in France and elsewhere has grown. In 1980, the Beauceron Club of America formed, and, in 2001, the AKC admitted the Beauceron into the Miscellaneous class. They are making their presence felt by excelling in obedience, tracking, agility, Schuzthund and of course, herding.
Temperament:
Beaucerons are uncannily intelligent and adept at any task involving learning, memory, and reasoning. They are courageous and calm, and make reliable, thoughtful guardians. This is an extremely loyal breed that is eager to please its family; however, if not properly trained, the Beauceron can run the family. Beaucerons are patient with children, but can be overwhelming to them or try to herd them. They may be wary of strangers and do not take to unfamiliar dogs. They can get along with other family dogs and pets.
Upkeep:
This is a dog with an active mind and athletic body, and it needs mental and physical exercise every day. Without adequate stimulation, the Beauceron can become bored and destructive. Don't get a Beauceron unless you commit to taking time to train and exercise it regularly. It is very much a family dog and should not be relegated to a kennel, although it should spend time outdoors every day. Coat care is minimal, consisting of brushing once a week or so.
Health:
• Major concerns: none
• Minor concerns: CHD, gastric torsion
• Occasionally seen: none
• Suggested tests: hip
• Life span: 10 - 12 years
Form and Function:
The Beauceron is not a dog of extremes, but is a solid, balanced dog as befitting a true multipurpose dog ready to do a long day's work. Its body is powerful yet agile, its jaws strong, its gait fluid, effortless, and ground covering. The head is not held high when moving, but is lowered to the level of the back, as is typical of herding dogs. Its outer coat is straight, dense, and coarse, of medium length; this, combined with a dense undercoat, offers weather-resistant protection. An unusual trait is the presence of double dewclaws on the hindlegs, which seem to be a French tradition for herding and flock dogs. Although they serve no function, they were perhaps at one time associated with the best herders, and are now a breed trademark.
Belgian Malinois:
AKC Ranking: 96
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: Belgium
Date of Origin: 1800s
Original Function: stock herding
Today's Function: security, police, contraband detection, assistance, herding trials, shutzhund
Avg Size of male: Height: 24-26 Weight: 60-65
Avg Size of Female: Height: 22-24 Weight: 60-65
Other Name: Malinois, chien de berger Belge
History:
The Belgian sheep-herding breeds, collectively known as chiens de berger Belge, shared their early history as general-purpose shepherds and guard dogs of Belgium. As working dogs, they were bred for ability rather than esthetics, and no careful records were kept. Thus, when dog shows became popular in the late 1800s, it was not clear if Belgium had any recognizable breeds with which they could tout their national pride. In 1891, professor Adolphe Reul was asked to study the native dogs to see if they could be sorted into distinct breeds. He found a group of similar dogs that differed only in coat type and color, all of which were grouped as Belgian shepherds. The shorthaired variety was developed in the area around Malines, and so became known as the Belgian Malinois. It remains the most popular of the Belgian shepherd breeds in its native land, but has had a rockier road in America. Between 1911 and World War II, the Malinois enjoyed a good deal of popularity in America. After the war, registrations plummeted, and it was rare to find a Malinois entered in competition. When the breeds were separated in 1959, Malinois registrations began to grow once again, but they still fell far behind the other Belgian breeds. More recently, the Malinois is becoming popular because of its reputation as one of the pre-eminent police dogs in the world, surpassing even the German shepherd in demand. Thus, even though it may not be seen in many homes or show rings, it is making its presence known as a keeper of the peace throughout the world.
Temperament:
Intense best describes the Belgian Malinois. This is a high-energy breed with a need for regular mental and physical stimulation. It is alert, smart and serious, an ideal watchdog and guard dog. It is aloof with strangers and can be aggressive toward other dogs and animals. Some can be domineering. When confined, it often runs in sweeping circles in an effort to stay on the move. It is protective of its home and family.
Upkeep:
The Malinois is a high-energy dog that needs a lot of exercise. Its needs cannot be met with a leisurely walk on leash. It instead needs a good jog or a vigorous play session. It especially enjoys herding. This breed can live outside in temperate to cool weather, but it would prefer to divide its time between house and yard. Its coat needs weekly brushing, more when shedding.
Health:
• Major concerns: none
• Minor concerns: CHD, epilepsy, skin allergies
• Occasionally seen: none
• Suggested tests: hip
• Life span: 10 – 12 years
Form and Function:
The Belgian Malinois is a sturdy dog of square proportion with moderately heavy, but oval, bone. It is elegant, with very proud head carriage. The overall impression is of power without bulkiness. The gait is smooth and easy, seemingly effortless rather than hard driving. Such a gait gives the impression of tirelessness. The Malinois has a tendency to run in a wide circle rather than a straight line. Its coat is fairly short, straight, and hard, with a dense undercoat. Its expression is intelligent and questioning.
Belgian Sheepdog:
AKC Ranking: 111
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: Belgium
Date of Origin: 1800s
Original Function: stock herding
Today's Function: herding trials, schutzhund
Avg Size of male: Height: 24-26 Weight: 55-75
Avg Size of Female: Height: 22-24 Weight: 40-60
Other Name: Groenendael, chien de berger Belge
History:
The Belgian sheepdog, Belgian Tervuren and Belgian Malinois began as three local variations of one breed, which was known as the Belgian shepherd or Continental shepherd. The dog that was heir to the name Belgian sheepdog was originally known as the Groenendael variation of the breed. Like all the Belgian shepherds, it was a working farm dog expected to both herd and guard. It differed from the others because it had a rather long, black coat. In 1910 these dogs were officially dubbed Groenendael after the kennel that had selectively bred the black dogs since 1893 (just after the Belgian shepherds were recognized as a breed). By this time, the breed had gained some repute as a police dog and was already employed in this capacity in America. In World War I, they continued to shine as sentry dogs, messengers and even draft dogs. It was here that they captured the attention of the public, and they soon enjoyed a fair amount of popularity after the war. In 1959, the three Belgian shepherd breeds were divided into separate breeds, with the Groenendael subsequently known as the Belgian sheepdog. With its shimmering black coat, it is the most striking of the Belgian breeds, and that fact, along with its versatile abilities, has won it many faithful supporters.
Temperament:
Ever watchful and on the move, the Belgian sheepdog glides in large circles. It is playful, alert, watchful and protective — a tough, independent and intense dog. It is aloof with strangers and can be aggressive toward other dogs and animals. Some can be domineering. It is intelligent and biddable, but independent. It is protective of its home and family.
Upkeep:
The Belgian sheepdog needs a good deal of exercise, either a good long jog or a long, strenuous play session. It needs room to move during the day and does best with access to a yard. Although it can live outdoors in temperate to cool climates, it is family-oriented and happier if it can share time in the house with its family. Its double coat needs brushing and combing twice weekly, more when shedding.
Health:
• Major concerns: none
• Minor concerns: epilepsy, skin allergies
• Occasionally seen: CHD
• Suggested tests: none
• Life span: 10 – 12 years
Form and Function:
The Belgian sheepdog is an elegant, square-proportioned dog that is alert and agile with proud carriage. Its bone is moderately heavy. As a dog expected to herd for long hours, its gait is smooth, tireless and effortless rather than driving. It has a tendency to move in a circle rather than a straight line. It has an extremely dense undercoat along with an outer coat of abundant guard hairs that are long, well-fitting and straight. Its expression is intelligent and questioning; its black coloration is striking.
Belgian Tervuren:
AKC Ranking: 108
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: Belgium
Date of Origin: 1800s
Original Function: stock herding
Today's Function: herding trials, schutzhund
Avg Size of male: Height: 24-26 Weight: 55-65
Avg Size of Female: Height: 22-24 Weight: 40-50
Other Name: Tervuren, chien de berger Belge
History:
The Belgian Tervuren is one of four Belgian shepherd breeds, all sharing the same origins but distinguished by different coat types and colors. They are the wire-haired Laekenois, the shorthaired Malinois, the long black-haired Groenendael and the long anything-but-black-haired Tervuren. All these herding – guard breeds were interbred before and after their recognition as one breed (the Belgian, or Continental, shepherd) in 1891. The Tervuren was named after the village of Tervuren, where one of the breed's earliest proponents lived. The Tervuren lagged behind the other shepherd breeds in popularity, perhaps hindered by its less flashy color and disagreements over exactly what colors were desirable. The first Tervuren was registered in America in 1918, but the breed's numbers remained so low that these dogs died out by the Depression. The Tervuren had to be almost re-created after World War II from longhaired offspring of Malinois parents. In 1959 the Belgian shepherd was divided into three breeds, and the Tervuren was on its own. The Tervuren has since captured the eye of many fanciers because it is the most elegant of the three breeds. It now enjoys moderate popularity. The Belgian Tervuren is a versatile dog and is used less in guard work, but more in herding, than are its Belgian shepherd counterparts.
Temperament:
Alert, watchful and energetic, the Tervuren is an active and dependable companion that functions best when given daily mental and physical exercise. It enjoys playing and running outside, and can be a well-mannered companion inside as long as it is given sufficient exercise. It is smart and obedient, but independent. It is aloof with strangers and can be aggressive toward other dogs and animals. It may nip at the heels of children in an attempt to herd them.
Upkeep:
The Tervuren needs strenuous activity, either a long walk or jog or an invigorating play or work session every day. It especially enjoys herding, which is the ideal exercise. It can live outside in temperate to cool climates, but it does best when allowed access to both a house and yard. Its double coat needs brushing and combing twice weekly, more often when shedding.
Health:
• Major concerns: none
• Minor concerns: epilepsy, skin allergies
• Occasionally seen: CHD
• Suggested tests: none
• Life span: 10 – 12 years
Form and Function:
This breed combines elegance and strength. It is square-proportioned and of medium bone. It is noteworthy for its exceedingly proud carriage. Its movement is lively, graceful and seemingly tireless, exhibiting an easy, effortless gait rather than a hard-driving action. It has a natural tendency to move in a circle rather than a straight line. It combines a dense undercoat with an outer coat consisting of abundant guard hairs that are long, well-fitting, straight and of medium harshness. Its expression is intelligent and questioning.
Border Collie:
AKC Ranking: 65
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: Great Britain
Date of Origin: 1800s
Original Function: sheep herding
Today's Function: sheep herding, herding trials, obedience
Avg Size of male: Height: 20-23 Weight: 30-45
Avg Size of Female: Height: 18-21 Weight: 30-45
Other Name: none
History:
The consummate sheepdog, the border collie is the result of over a century of breeding for function above all other criteria. In the 1800s, a variety of sheep-herding dogs with differing herding styles existed in Great Britain. Some were "fetching" dogs, dogs having an innate tendency to circle stock and bring them back toward the shepherd. Most of these were noisy dogs, tending to nip and bark as they performed their job. Boasts of the superiority of certain dogs were only natural; in 1873 the first actual sheepdog trial was held in order to settle some of these boasts. This contest would indirectly lead to the first border collies, by way of a dog named Hemp, who so distinguished himself in trials that he sired a great number of offspring. He herded not by barking and nipping, but by calmly staring at the sheep ("giving eye") intimidating them into moving. Hemp is considered to be the father of the border collie. In 1906, the first standard was drawn up, but unlike the physical standards of most breeds, this was a description of working ability, with no regard to physical appearance. This emphasis has shaped the breed ever since. In fact, the dogs were still referred to simply as sheepdogs; only in 1915 was the name border collie first recorded, in reference to the dog's origin around the English and Scottish borders. The border collie came to America and instantly dazzled serious shepherds with its quick herding and obedience capabilities. In fact, the latter opened a new door for the breed as one of the top competitive breeds in obedience trials. Having worked hard to gain the reputation of one of the smartest breeds of dogs, a breed unspoiled by cosmetic emphasis, many border collie fanciers actively fought AKC recognition as a show dog. In 1995, however, the AKC recognized the breed and herded it into the show ring.
Temperament:
The border collie is a bundle of mental and physical energy awaiting its chance to be unleashed on the world. Among the most intelligent and obedient of breeds, it is nonetheless a disastrous house dog if it is not given a challenging job every day. Given sufficient exercise, it is a dependable and loyal companion. It is intent on whatever it does and tends to stare, which can be unnerving to other animals. It also likes to chase other animals. It is reserved, even protective, toward strangers.
Upkeep:
Few dogs are as work-oriented as the border collie. This is a dog that needs a job. It needs a lot of physical and mental activity every day to satisfy its quest for work. It can live outdoors in temperate to cool climates, but it enjoys being with its family inside as well. This is a dog that cannot live in an apartment and that should preferably have ready access to a yard. Its coat needs brushing or combing twice weekly.
Health:
• Major concerns: CHD
• Minor concerns: PRA, lens luxation, CEA, PDA, OCD, PPM
• Occasionally seen: cerebellar abiotrophy, ceroid lipofuscinosis, deafness
• Suggested tests: hip, eye
• Life span: 10 – 14 years
Form and Function:
This is a medium dog of strong bone, slightly longer than it is tall, combining grace, agility, substance and stamina. Its trot is smooth, ground-covering and tireless, moving with stealth and strength. It is able to change speed and direction suddenly. Border collies must be able to display incredible agility even after working for long periods. The coat can be either smooth or rough. The smooth coat is short all over the body; the rough coat is medium to long in length and flat to slightly wavy in texture. Its expression is intelligent, alert, eager and full of interest, a reflection of its temperament.
Bouvier des Flandres:
AKC Ranking: 86
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: Belgium
Date of Origin: 1600s
Original Function: cattle herding
Today's Function: security, herding trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 24.5-27.5 Weight: 69-90
Avg Size of Female: Height: 23.5-26.5 Weight: 69-90
Other Name: Belgian cattle dog
History:
The bouvier des Flandres served farmers and cattle merchants in controlling cattle in the great farmlands of southwest Flanders and on the French northern plain. In fact, bouvier means "cowherd" or "oxherd" in French, although the dogs were formerly more often called vuilbaard (dirty beard) or koe hond (cow dog). Besides its main duty as a cattle drover, the bouvier was an all-around farm dog, functioning also as a livestock and farm guard and draft dog. As expected from a dog selected to perform a variety of tasks, these working dogs were of a variety of types, colors and even sizes. This wide variety also reflected the fact that this was a working dog, and breeding stock was chosen by ability, not pedigree or esthetics. The derivation of the breed is not documented but may have included mastiff, sheepdog and possibly even spaniel breeds. The first breed standard, drawn up in 1912, reflected this diversity of types and signaled a growing interest in the breed from dog fanciers. In the midst of the breed's rising popularity, most of the bouviers were lost in World War I — although some served as ambulance and messenger dogs during the war. One of the few survivors was of such superior quality that the breed was successfully revived through his progeny. This dog, Ch. Nic de Sottegem, can be found in virtually every modern bouvier pedigree. In 1922, a revised standard further defined the desirable bouvier type, and helped pave the way to a more homogeneous breed. When the first bouviers entered American show rings in the 1930s, they aroused much attention among dog fanciers. The breed has never become extremely popular, but it is well-known at dog shows and herding trials.
Temperament:
The bouvier is a steady, stalwart companion that is loyal, devoted, fearless and protective. Given daily exercise, it is calm and well-mannered indoors, but ready for an adventure in the great outdoors. It is independent and confident of its own judgment, yet biddable and willing to please. It can be domineering. It is reserved, even protective, toward strangers and can be aggressive with strange dogs. It is very good with children, although it may nip at heels in play.
Upkeep:
The bouvier des Flandres is not a breed that can be put aside until the mood strikes to play with it. It needs daily exercise and daily interaction, and a lot of both. It loves the chance to herd, but its requirements can also be met with a good jog, a very long walk or a vigorous play session. It can live outdoors in temperate to cool climates. It makes a good house dog, however, and would prefer access to both house and yard. Its harsh coat needs combing once or twice weekly, plus scissoring and shaping (clipping for pets and stripping for show dogs) every three months.
Health:
• Major concerns: CHD
• Minor concerns: gastric torsion
• Occasionally seen: entropion
• Suggested tests: hip
• Life span: 10 – 12 years
Form and Function:
This is a versatile breed able to perform a variety of functions, including cattle herder, draft dog and guard. As such, it combines great strength with agility and endurance. The bouvier is a compact, short-coupled dog, of square proportion and rugged appearance. Its gait is free, bold and proud. Its weatherproof coat is tousled and double, with a fine undercoat and a harsh, dry outer coat. It is trimmed (if necessary) to a length of about 2.5 inches. The head is accentuated by a beard and moustache, which adds to the dog's bold and alert expression.
Briard:
AKC Ranking: 108
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: France
Date of Origin: 1300s
Original Function: herding and guarding sheep
Today's Function: herding trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 23-27 Weight: 75-100
Avg Size of Female: Height: 22-25.5 Weight: 50-65
Other Name: berger de Brie
History:
The briard is one of four French sheepdog breeds, the others being the Beauceron, Picardy and Pyrenean. It is the oldest of the four breeds, with dogs resembling briards depicted in art from as long ago as the eighth century, and more definitive evidence by the 14th century. These early dogs were known as chien berger de Brie (shepherd dog of Brie), giving rise to the belief that the breed originated in the province of Brie; however, it may also be a corruption of chien d'Aubry, referring to the dog of Aubry de Montdidier, which saved his son's life (according to 14th-century legend). The name briard was not used until 1809. Originally employed as a herd protector, the briard was expected to tackle wolves if the need arose. After the French Revolution, which resulted in the country's land being divided into smaller sectors, it was important that the flocks be kept close to home, and the briard turned its talents to herding rather than guarding sheep. Only around 1900 did it become a show dog. The first breed standard was written in 1897, but it was replaced by another in 1909. Briards came to America very early, with evidence that both Lafayette and Thomas Jefferson brought some of the first specimens to the New World. These dogs did not have a lasting influence, however. After World War I, American soldiers brought some briards to America, and this was the beginning of the modern American briard. The breed's popularity has been modest in America, but it remains the most popular sheep herder in its native France.
Temperament:
Devoted and faithful, the briard is a loving and protective companion. It is independent, intelligent and self-assured, but it is also willing to please and eager to serve as a partner in adventure. It is reserved with strangers. It can be aggressive with other dogs and may nip at people's heels when playing. It tends to stay at home and may attempt to keep the family's children home as well!
Upkeep:
This is a dog that needs a good amount of activity and interaction every day. Its favorite exercise is the chance to herd, but it can also be satisfied with a long walk or jog, or a long play session coupled with a little training. The briard can live outside in temperate to cool climates, but is happiest if allowed access to both house and yard. Its long coat needs brushing or combing every other day or mats can form.
Health:
• Major concerns: gastric torsion, CHD
• Minor concerns: nightblindness
• Occasionally seen: PRA, heart problems
• Suggested tests: hip, eye, (cardiac)
• Life span: 10 – 12 years
Form and Function:
The briard is square or slightly longer than it is tall and powerful without being course; the overall appearance is one of handsome form. Like all good herding dogs, it combines strength, flexibility, agility and endurance with the ability to make abrupt turns, springing starts and sudden stops. Its movement has been described as "quicksilver," with supple, light strides that give the impression of gliding. Its undercoat is fine and tight, and its outer coat is coarse and dry, lying flat in long, slightly wavy locks. On the shoulders, the coat's length is 6 inches or more. The questioning, confident expression is enhanced by the longer eyebrows, as well as the long-appearing head.
Canaan Dog:
AKC Ranking: 146
Family: livestock, herding, primitive, Southern (pariah)
Area of Origin: Israel
Date of Origin: ancient times
Original Function: sentry, messenger, and assistance
Today's Function: herding trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 20-24 Weight: 45-55
Avg Size of Female: Height: 19-23 Weight: 35-45
Other Name: kalef K'naani
History:
Canaan dogs have evolved through hundreds, and perhaps thousands, of years of hardship. It is thought that the breed originated in the biblical land of Canaan and were known as kelev Kanani ("dog of Canaan"). When the Israelites were dispersed from their homeland by the Romans 2,000 years ago, most of the Israeli dogs were left to fend for themselves in the Sebulon coastal plain and Negev desert. Bedouins captured male puppies from the wild to raise as guard and livestock dogs. When the Israeli Defense Force tried to develop service dogs in the 1930s, the traditional European service breeds weren't able to adapt to the harsh climate. The Canaan dog owes its existence primarily to the efforts of one woman, Dr. Rudolphina Menzel. Her search for a more suitable dog led her to the native feral dogs. Several dogs were captured, and a breeding and training program was begun. The dogs quickly proved their worth, serving as sentry dogs, messengers, mine detectors, Red Cross helpers and even locators of wounded soldiers during World War II and as guide dogs for the blind after the war. Perhaps no other breed of dog has ever risen from feral roots to become such a useful and dedicated companion in so short a time. The first Canaan dog came to America in 1965. Not the flashiest of breeds, the Canaan's understated good looks may have made many people overlook it, despite its companionship credentials. Nonetheless, it slowly attracted admirers, and the AKC finally admitted it into the herding group in 1997. Now beginning a new era as a show dog, the increased exposure is sure to attract many more people looking for a loyal and hardy pet.
Temperament:
Not only does the Canaan dog excel as a herder, but it has also proven itself in a variety of tasks involving dependability and obedience. This is an intelligent, devoted, docile dog that is quite tractable and willing to please. It is aloof toward strangers and protective of its family. The Canaan dog is generally good with other household pets and dogs, but it may be aggressive toward strange dogs. It is a natural guardian and tends to bark a lot.
Upkeep:
Few breeds can claim as pure a working heritage as the Canaan dog. This dog will not be happy just sitting around. It needs lots of exercise and mental and physical challenges. These needs can be met with herding exercise, a long jog, or a strenuous game session along with a challenging training session. It can live outdoors in warm to cool climates, but it also makes an excellent house dog. Its coat needs brushing about once a week to remove dead hairs.
Health:
• Major concerns: none
• Minor concerns: none
• Occasionally seen: none
• Suggested tests: none
• Life span: 12 – 13 years
Form and Function:
The Canaan dog resembles none of the other herding breeds, arising from a completely different background. nonetheless, it shares similar traits needed in any dog that must herd for hours. It is a medium-sized, square-proportioned dog of moderate substance that combines strength, agility and endurance. It is not exaggerated in any way. Its movement is athletic and graceful, with a brisk, ground-covering trot. It is able to change directions instantly. It has a double coat, with a short, soft undercoat that varies in density according to climate, and a straight, flat-lying, harsh outer coat, with a slight ruff. This breed must adapt to great extremes in weather ranging from hot days to cold nights.
Collie:
AKC Ranking: 32
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: Scotland
Date of Origin: 1800s
Original Function: sheep herding
Today's Function: herding trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 24-26 Weight: 60-75
Avg Size of Female: Height: 22-24 Weight: 60-65
Other Name: Scottish collie
History:
The derivation of the collie is as obscure as the derivation of its name. One theory of the breed's origins is that it was derived from the same rootstock as the border collie. One theory of the name's origin is that it was derived from a Gaelic word meaning useful, which certainly described the useful farm or stock dogs valued by the Celts who first settled on the British Isles. Although sheep herding and guarding are some of the most ancient of canine services, evidence of the collie dates only from about 1800. Both rough- and smooth-coated "Scotch" collies existed by that time, but they apparently were derived from different crosses. The rough-coated dogs were characteristically smaller and broader headed, and usually black or black and white. As the breed caught the interest of dog fanciers, both rough- and smooth-coated collies became taller and more refined. The rough-coated collie was especially influenced by the progeny of a dog named "old cockie," born in 1867 and thought to be responsible not only for setting type but also for introducing the sable color. Around this same time, Queen Victoria became enthusiastic about the breed; under her sponsorship, its popularity grew not only with shepherds appreciative of its working value but also with members of the upper class, who were enamored of its beauty. By 1886 a standard was drawn up that still describes the breed as it is today. Meanwhile, as sheep herding became more important in America, settlers brought collies with them to the New World. In 1878, Queen Victoria once again put the breed in the limelight by entering two collies in the Westminster Dog Show. This provided the impetus for America's social elite to join the collie clan, and soon the collie could be found in some of the most prestigious estates in America. Later the collie found a champion in Albert Payson Terhune, whose stories about collies heightened their popularity with people from all walks of life. The most famous collie of all, the te
Temperament:
The collie is gentle and devoted, a mild-mannered friend to all. It is a dog with a working heritage, and it needs daily mental and physical exercise or it can become frustrated. It is sensitive, intelligent and willing to please, although it is sometimes a bit stubborn. It can nip at heels in play. Some may bark a lot.
Upkeep:
A good walk or jog on leash or a fun play session is needed every day. Herding is an excellent exercise. The collie can live outdoors in temperate to cool climates, but it is such a family-oriented dog that it is far happier indoors. The coat of the smooth variety needs minimal care; the coat of the rough variety needs brushing or combing every other day, more when shedding.
Health:
• Major concerns: CEA
• Minor concerns: distichiasis, pyotraumatic dermatitis
• Occasionally seen: PDA, deafness, cerebellar abiotrophy (Rough)
• Suggested tests: eye, (cardiac), (hearing)
• Life span: 8 – 12 years
• Note: often sensitive to ivermectin. Merles should not be bred to merles because homozygous merle is lethal or detrimental to health.
Form and Function:
The collie is an active, lithe, strong dog that combines strength, speed and grace. Its gait suggests effortless speed as well as the ability to change speed and direction instantly, as required in herding dogs. The coat can be of two types, both with a soft, abundant undercoat. The outer coat of the smooth variety is short, hard and flat; that of the rough variety is straight, harsh, abundant and long, particularly on the mane and ruff. The collie's expression is an important hallmark of the breed, and depends upon the shape and balance of the skull and muzzle, as well as the characteristics of the eyes and ears. It should be bright, alert and intelligent — traits accentuated by a fairly refined head.
German Shepherd:
AKC Ranking: 4
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: Germany
Date of Origin: 1800s
Original Function: sheep herding, guarding, police dog
Today's Function: police, contraband detection, assistance, herding trials, schutzhund
Avg Size of male: Height: 24-26 Weight: 75-95
Avg Size of Female: Height: 22-24 Weight: 75-95
Other Name: Alsatian, Deutscher schaferhund
History:
Despite an outward appearance slightly resembling a wolf, the German shepherd dog is a fairly recently developed breed and, contrary to namve beliefs, it is no more closely related to the wolf than any other breed of dog. The breed is the result of a conscious effort to produce the ideal shepherd, capable of herding and guarding its flocks. Perhaps never in the history of any breed has such concerted effort been put into improving a dog, mostly due to the formation in 1899 of the Verein fur Deutsche Scharferhunde SV, an organization devoted to overseeing the breeding of the German shepherd. Breeders sought to develop not only a herding dog but also one that could excel at jobs requiring courage, athleticism and intelligence. In short order, the German shepherd had proved itself a more than capable police dog, and subsequent breeding strove to perfect its abilities as an intelligent and fearless companion and guardian. During World War I, it was the obvious choice for a war sentry. At the same time, the AKC changed the breed's name from German sheepdog to shepherd dog, and Britain changed it to Alsatian wolf dog, both attempts to dissociate the dog from its unpopular German roots. The wolf dog was later dropped as it caused many people to fear the breed. In 1931, the AKC restored the breed's name to German shepherd dog. The greatest boon to the shepherd's popularity came in the form of two dogs, both movie stars: Strongheart and Rin Tin Tin. The German shepherd held the number-one spot in American popularity for many years. Although presently it has dropped from the top spot, the German shepherd remains as one of the most versatile dogs ever created, serving as a police dog, war dog, guide dog, search-and-rescue dog, narcotics- or explosives-detecting dog, show dog, guard dog, pet — and even shepherd.
Temperament:
Among the most intelligent of breeds, the German shepherd dog is so intent on its mission — whatever that may be — that it is virtually unsurpassed in working versatility. It is utterly devoted and faithful. Aloof and suspicious toward strangers, it is protective of its home and family. It can be domineering. It can be aggressive toward other dogs, but it is usually good with other pets.
Upkeep:
This breed needs daily mental and physical challenges. It enjoys a good exercise session as well as learning session. It can live outside in temperate to cool climates, but it is family-oriented and does equally well as a house dog. Its coat needs brushing one or two times weekly.
Health:
• Major concerns: CHD, elbow dysplasia
• Minor concerns: panosteitis, vWD, progressive posterior paresis, cauda equina, pyotraumatic dermatitis, skin allergies, malignant neoplasms, pannus, cataract, gastric torsion, perianal fistulas, cardiomyopathy
• Occasionally seen: pancreatic insufficiency
• Suggested tests: hip, elbow, eye (blood)
• Life span: 10 – 12 years
• Note: GSDs are especially susceptible to a potentially fatal systemic fungal infection from Aspergillus.
Form and Function:
The German shepherd dog has an outline of smooth curves on a body that is longer than it is tall. It is strong, agile and substantial. Its gait is exceptionally outreaching and elastic, covering the ground in great strides. It has a double coat, with the outer coat consisting of dense, straight or slightly wavy, harsh, close lying hair of medium length.
Polish Lowland Sheepdog:
AKC Ranking: 135
Family: Livestock, Herding
Area of Origin: Poland
Date of Origin: Ancient times
Original Function: Sheep herding
Today's Function: Sheep herding, companion
Avg Size of male: Height: 18 - 20 Weight: 30 - 35
Avg Size of Female: Height: 17 - 19 Weight: 30 - 35
Other Name: Polski Owczarek Nizinny, PON
History:
The Polish Lowland Sheepdog is known in much of the world as the Polski Owczarek Nizinny (pronounced "pole-ski off-chair-ick na-gin-nee"), and even in America it goes by its nickname, the PON. The breed's origins probably reach back to Central Asia from one or more Tibetan breeds, such as the Tibetan Terrier, which were probably introduced to Eastern Europe by Tibetan traders. The long-coated Tibetan dogs were likely interbred with corded-coated Hungarian sheepdogs introduced by the Huns in the fourth century. While large flock-guarding dogs staved off large predators, the smaller PONs worked with shepherds to move and control sheep, and also kept watch against intruders. Unlike larger dogs, they didn't scare the sheep and they could work all day. They worked on the Polish lowlands for centuries until interest in purebred dogs and livestock swept through Europe in the late 1800s and early 1900s. This, combined with Polish national pride following World War I, created interest in promoting and selectively breeding the PON. Several PONs left the plains to live and work on large estates. In 1924, PONs were shown at a Warsaw poultry and dog show. PONs breeders were in the midst of starting a registry when Germany invaded Poland in 1939. Most dogs had to be abandoned, but legend has it that a Warsaw PON named Psyche was valued for her ability to predict incoming bombs, alerting people to take cover in shelters. Only about 150 PONs remained after World War II, but several fanciers sought to reconstitute the breed. The first PONs were registered with the Polish Kennel Club in 1957. A PON named Smok was influential in modeling the breed standard, which was approved in 1959. PONs were exhibited at the World Dog Show in 1965, exposing them to dog fanciers from around the world. In 1987eight fanciers formed the American Polski Owczarek Nizinny Club. In 2001, the PON was admitted to the AKC under the English translation of its name, Polish Lowland Sheepdog.
Temperament:
Lively and loyal, the PON has been shaped by centuries of work as a shepherd. This is a territorial breed that is often wary of strangers; however, to those it knows it is very affectionate. A PON's bark is one of its best friends, and the typical PON shows it off often. The PON has an independent and even willful side. It learns quickly, but sees no use in following commands blindly. Despite its shaggy dog look, the PON can be a serious dog. PONs are good with considerate children, most other pets, and most other dogs, although if challenged by a dog, they will hold their own.
Upkeep:
The PON is not a cuddly overgrown lapdog, but a serious worker that needs a job to be satisfied. This dog needs to exercise its body and mind daily. It flourishes when allowed to herd or learn agility. The PON does not accept extended confinement, but does best living inside and working and playing outside. Its coat needs considerable care, preferably brushing every couple of days.
Health:
• Major concerns: none
• Minor concerns: none
• Occasionally seen: none
• Suggested tests: hip, eye
• Life span: 10-14 years
Form and Function:
The PON is a cobby, medium-sized dog, slightly longer than tall, giving it great agility. It is strong and muscular, enabling it to control livestock. It has a fluid gait, with long stride, allowing it to trot effortlessly for hours. It is inclined to amble, which can act as a reconnaissance, energy-efficient gait. Toeing in is considered natural. The coat is long, dense, shaggy, and double, providing great protection against the elements. The PON is shown naturally, without scissoring.
Puli:
AKC Ranking: 129
Family: livestock, herding, gundog
Area of Origin: Hungary
Date of Origin: Middle Ages
Original Function: sheep herding
Today's Function: herding trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 17 Weight: 25-35
Avg Size of Female: Height: 16 Weight: 25-35
Other Name: Hungarian puli, Hungarian water dog
History:
Around the 9th century, the Magyar tribes came from the eastern Urals to occupy the central Danube area, intermingling with Turkish people along the way. They brought with them various sheepdogs, including the forebear of the modern puli. The puli's resemblance in body structure to the Tibetan spaniel has led some to surmise that the latter may have played a role in the puli's development. Whatever the origin, the small dogs were agile sheep herders, able even to turn a sheep by jumping on its back. The black color was important so that it could be easily spotted by the shepherd among the sheep. Thus, the Magyar's larger dogs were probably used as nighttime guards, and the small black dogs as daytime herders. After the decimation of Hungary by invaders in the 16th century, the country was repopulated by people, sheep and dogs from western Europe. These dogs interbred with the native pulik to produce the puli, and then the puli and pumi were interbred to such an extent that the original puli breed was nearly lost. In the early 1900s, an effort began to resurrect the puli; the first standard was written in 1925. Around that time, pulik in Hungary varied greatly in height from large "police" through medium "working" to small "dwarf" sizes. The medium-sized dogs were most representative of the traditional herding puli and were established as the desired size. In 1935, the U.S. Department of Agriculture imported several pulik in an effort to improve herding dogs in America. This effort was thwarted by war, but the breed's working ability became known in America, and by 1936 the AKC recognized the puli. The breed's fame spread farther throughout Europe as a result of Hungarians fleeing the war, bringing their dogs with them. The modern puli remains an adept herder, but it enjoys only modest popularity as a pet or show dog.
Temperament:
A mop on springs, the puli is full of bouncing energy. It is busy and curious and needs daily exercise. This smart dog is also headstrong and tough. It can be aggressive toward other dogs. Alert and watchful, it is also protective of its family. It barks a lot.
Upkeep:
This is an energetic breed on the lookout for a job, preferably something to herd. It can be satisfied with a good walk or jog, or a lively game and training session, however. It can live outdoors in temperate to cool climates, but it also makes an excellent house dog. Its coat can hold debris. Its nonshedding coat can be brushed or corded; if brushed, it needs brushing every one to two days. If corded, the cords must be regularly separated because the coat tends to hold dirt; bathing is time consuming and drying takes as much as one day. Pets can be clipped, but then part of the breed's unique appeal is lost.
Health:
• Major concerns: CHD
• Minor concerns: none
• Occasionally seen: PRA
• Suggested tests: hip, eye
• Life span: 12 – 16 years
Form and Function:
The puli is a compact dog of square proportion and medium bone. Its gait at a trot is quick stepping, but neither far reaching nor mincing. It is of utmost importance that the puli be able to change directions instantly, and it is quick, agile and even acrobatic. Its weatherproof coat consists of a soft, wooly, dense undercoat and a wavy or curly outer coat. This coat will form round or flattened cords, but it may also be brushed out.
Shetland Sheepdog:
AKC Ranking: 17
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: Scotland (Shetland Islands)
Date of Origin: 1800s
Original Function: sheep herding
Today's Function: sheep herding, herding trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 13-16 Weight: 20
Avg Size of Female: Height: 13-16 Weight: 20
Other Name: none
History:
The ancestors of the Shetland sheepdog were the herding dogs of Scotland that also provided the rootstock for the collie and border collie. Some of these dogs were quite small, measuring only about 18 inches in height. The Shetland sheepdog almost certainly is derived from these early collie type dogs, which then were further developed on the Shetland Islands. Some Iceland dogs may have also played a role, and perhaps even a black and tan King Charles spaniel. The paucity of vegetation favored smaller livestock, and the animals needed to herd them were proportionately smaller. In a land with few fences, an adept herder was essential to keep livestock away from cultivated land. As all-around farm dogs, they herded not only sheep but also ponies and chickens. In some remote areas, it was customary to keep all animals in the family's home building during winter, and the amiable herding dog no doubt worked its way right into the family part of the home. Because of its isolation from the rest of the world, the breed was able to breed true in a comparatively short time. The British naval fleet used to frequent the islands for maneuvers and often bought puppies to take home to England. Early dogs were referred to as "toonie dogs" (toon being the local Shetland word for farm), but they were initially shown (around 1906) as Shetland collies. Collie fanciers objected to the name, so it was changed to Shetland sheepdog. The breed is far more often referred to by its nickname of "Sheltie," however. In the early years in England, breeders often discreetly crossed Shelties with rough-coated collies in an attempt to improve on their collie characteristics. This practice led to oversized Shelties, however, and has long since stopped. Following the immense popularity of the collie, the Sheltie became the answer to the family wanting a loyal, striking pet of smaller size, and it is one of the most popular breeds in the world.
Temperament:
The Shetland sheepdog is extremely bright, sensitive and willing to please. This combination makes for a dog that is very obedient, quick to learn and utterly devoted to its family. It is not only gentle, playful, amiable and companionable, but also excellent with children, although it can nip at heels in play. It is reserved and often timid toward strangers. It barks a lot.
Upkeep:
The Sheltie is energetic, but its exercise needs can be met with a good walk, short jog or active game and training session. It can live outdoors in a temperate climate, but it is strongly advised that the Sheltie be a house dog. It is too attached to its family to do well separated from them. Its thick coat needs brushing or combing every other day.
Health:
• Major concerns: dermatomyositis
• Minor concerns: CEA, PRA, trichiasis, cataract, CHD, hemophilia, Legg – Perthes, patellar luxation
• Occasionally seen: PDA, deafness, epilepsy, vWD
• Suggested tests: eye, hip, DNA for vWD
• Life span: 12 – 14 years
• Note: may be sensitive to ivermectin. Merles should not be bred to merles because homozygous merle is lethal or detrimental to health.
Form and Function:
The Shetland sheepdog is a small, agile dog, longer than it is tall. Its gait is smooth, effortless and ground-covering, imparting good agility, speed and endurance essential in a herding dog. It has a double coat, with a short, dense undercoat and a long, straight, harsh outer coat. The hair of the mane, frill and tail is abundant. Its expression is gentle, intelligent and questioning. Although it resembles a rough collie in miniature, subtle differences distinguish the breeds.
Welsh Corgi-Cardigan:
AKC Ranking: 81
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: Wales
Date of Origin: ancient times
Original Function: cattle driving
Today's Function: cattle driving, herding trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 10.5-12.5 Weight: 30-38
Avg Size of Female: Height: 10.5-12.5 Weight: 25-34
Other Name: none
History:
One of the earliest breeds to come to the British Isles, the Cardigan Welsh corgi was brought from central Europe to Cardiganshire, South Wales, centuries ago. Its derivation is unknown, though it may have been influenced by the extinct English turn-spit dog, a short-legged, low-bodied dog used to turn spits in kitchens. Initially used as a family protector and even a helper in the hunt, it was only later that the corgi found its true forte. In a time when the land available to tenant farmers was determined by how much acreage their cattle occupied, it was to the farmer's advantage to have scattered, far-ranging stock. Thus, a dog that would drive, rather than herd, the cattle was an invaluable aid, and the corgi stepped right into this role, nipping at the cattle's heels and ducking their kicks. In fact the word corgi is probably derived from cor (to gather) and gi (dog). The original corgis were supposed to measure a Welsh yard (slightly longer than an English yard) from nose to tail tip, and in parts of Cardiganshire the breed was called the yard-long dog or ci-llathed. When the Crown lands were later divided, sold and fenced, the need for drovers was lost, and the corgi lost its job. Kept by some as a guard and companion, nonetheless, it became a luxury that few could afford, and it became perilously close to extinction. Crosses with other breeds had been tried, but most were not particularly successful. The exception was the cross with the brindle herder — present-day Cardigans are the products of this slight herder influence. The first Cardigans were shown around 1925. Until 1934, the Cardigan and Pembroke Welsh corgis were considered one breed, and interbreeding between the two was common. The first Cardigans came to America in 1931, and the AKC recognized the breed in 1935. For some unknown reason, the Cardigan has never enjoyed the popularity of the Pembroke corgi and remains only modestly popular.
Temperament:
Fun-loving and high-spirited, yet easygoing, the Cardigan is a devoted and amusing companion. This is a hardy breed, capable of a day dodging kicks, so it is agile and tireless. At home it is well-mannered but inclined to bark. It tends to be reserved with strangers and can be scrappy with other dogs.
Upkeep:
The Cardigan needs a surprising amount of exercise for its size. Its needs can best be met with a herding session, but a moderate walk or vigorous play session will also suffice. It can live outside in temperate to cool weather, but it is a very good house dog and best when it is allowed access to both house and yard. Its coat needs brushing once a week to remove dead hair.
Health:
• Major concerns: CHD
• Minor concerns: PRA
• Occasionally seen: urolithiasis, PRA
• Suggested tests: hip, (eye), (DNA test for PRA)
• Life span: 10 – 12 years
Form and Function:
The Cardigan is a low-set dog, approximately 1.8 times longer than it is tall, with moderately heavy bone. It is small but powerful — capable of the agility, speed and endurance necessary to drive cattle for extended periods. Its small size allowed it to duck under the cattle's hooves should they kick at it. Its gait is free, smooth, effortless and ground-covering. Its double coat consists of a soft thick undercoat and slightly harsh outer coat of medium length. Its expression is alert, gentle and watchful, yet friendly.
Welsh Corgi-Pembroke:
AKC Ranking: 24
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: Wales
Date of Origin: 1110s
Original Function: cattle driving
Today's Function: cattle driving, herding trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 10-12 Weight: 27
Avg Size of Female: Height: 10-12 Weight: 25
Other Name: none
History:
The corgi was an essential helper to the farmers of South Wales. Although these little dogs specialized in herding cattle, nipping at their heels and then ducking under their kicking hooves, they were almost certainly also used in herding sheep and even Welsh ponies. Despite claims for the antiquity of the breed, it is difficult to trace its origins or even authenticate its existence in early times. A Welsh cattle dog is mentioned in a book of the 11th century, however. Although it certainly shares its past with the Cardigan Welsh corgi, the Pembroke was developed separately, in Pembrokeshire, Wales. As a hard-working dog, the corgi was out in the fields when many of the early dog shows were being held. Only in 1926 did a club form and the breed enter the show ring. The first exhibits were straight from the farm and aroused only modest attention. Breeders subsequently strove to improve upon the breed's inherent good looks and were rewarded with increased popularity. The obvious differences between the Pembroke and Cardigan were troublesome to judges — the Pembroke is smaller, with sharper features, a more foxlike expression and characteristically no tail. In 1934, the Cardigan and Pembroke corgis were divided into two separate breeds, after which the Pembroke soared in popularity. Its appeal was heightened when it became the favorite of King George VI and, subsequently, Queen Elizabeth II. By the 1960s, the Pembroke had become one of the most popular pet breeds all over the world, but especially in Britain. This popularity has since waned slightly, but far more Pembrokes can be found herding in back yards than in farmyards today.
Temperament:
Quick and quick-witted, the Pembroke Welsh corgi has an active mind and body. It needs daily physical and mental exercise to be at its best in the house. It is devoted and willing to please, fun-loving, amiable and companionable. It is very good with children, although it can nip at heels in play. It is usually reserved with strangers. Many bark a lot.
Upkeep:
The Pembroke loves to herd, and a daily herding session would be ideal to meet its exercise requirements. It can do fine without herding, however, as long as it gets a moderate walk on leash or a good play and training session off leash. It is physically able to live outdoors in temperate climates, but it is mentally far better suited to share its family's home and have access to a yard. Coat care consists only of brushing once a week to remove dead hairs.
Health:
• Major concerns: intervertebral disc disease, CHD
• Minor concerns: epilepsy
• Occasionally seen: vWD, skin fragility, PRA, lens luxation, urolithiasis
• Suggested tests: hip, eye, (blood)
• Life span: 11 – 13 years
Form and Function:
The Pembroke Welsh corgi is moderately long and low, and less heavily boned than the Cardigan Welsh corgi. Its movement is free and smooth, with good reach and drive. This is a breed that needs to be quick and agile, even after herding all day, in order to avoid the cattle's kicking hooves. It combines a weather-resistant undercoat of medium length with a coarser outer coat of slightly longer length. Its expression is intelligent and interested, foxy, but not sly.
Hound Group:
The hounds are one the oldest groups of dogs, aiding humans by pursuing and catching their quarry. The sighthounds pursue by sight and include the fast-running dogs of greyhound build, whereas the scenthounds pursue by scent and include the more solidly built dogs of general foxhound build. Some breeds hunt by both sight and scent, and a few breeds don't seem like hounds at all. Again, all hound breeds have in common the independent pursuit of mammalian quarry. As such, they traditionally could not wait for the hunter's direction; they led the way.
Afghan Hound:
AKC Ranking: 90
Family: sighthound, Southern (sighthound)
Area of Origin: Afghanistan
Date of Origin: ancient times
Original Function: coursing hare and gazelle
Today's Function: lure coursing
Avg Size of male: Height: 27 Weight: 60
Avg Size of Female: Height: 25 Weight: 50
Other Name: tazi, Baluchi hound
History:
With roots dating to the Egyptian pharaohs, the Afghan hound is an ancient breed derived from the group of Middle Eastern sighthounds. Despite such illustrious roots, most of the Afghan hound's development is the result of its use by nomadic tribes as a coursing hound capable of providing hare and gazelle meat for the pot. The dogs often hunted with the aid of falcons, which were trained to swoop at the quarry. Generations of hunting in the harsh mountainous terrain of Afghanistan produced a fast dog that also had a good deal of stamina, but most of all, had incredible leaping ability and nimbleness. Its long coat protected it from the cold climate. These dogs remained isolated for centuries, hidden in the impenetrable Afghanistan mountains. The first Afghan hound came to England in the early 1900s; at that time these dogs were called Persian greyhounds or Barukhzy hounds. These dogs were a diverse lot so a standard of perfection — modeled on Zardin, a particularly striking dog — that described the more elegant, racy dog of today was created. Popularity grew slowly, with the dog appealing mostly to the glamour set. Popularity in the show ring came faster, with the Afghan quickly becoming one of the most competitive and glamorous dogs in the rings. In the 1970s the Afghan became a fad breed with the public, but it has since dwindled in popularity.
Temperament:
Despite its glamorous reputation, the Afghan hound is a hunter at heart, bred to chase down game over rugged terrain. While it maintains its regal bearings inside, it needs a daily chance to stretch its legs in a safe area. Its worst trait is a reluctance to come when called. It will chase small animals outside; inside, it will coexist peacefully. Though gentle with children, it may not be playful and interactive enough with them. Described by some as "catlike," it is independent yet sensitive and not overly demonstrative. It is reserved with strangers; some can be timid. It has a gay, clownish side.
Upkeep:
The Afghan needs daily exertion, either in the form of a long walk followed by a short sprint, or preferably, a chance to run full speed in a safe, enclosed area. Although its coat might make it amenable to outdoor living in temperate areas, it needs a soft bed and is better suited as a house dog. The coat requires some commitment, especially when shedding the puppy coat; most adult coats need brushing or combing every two to three days.
Health:
• Major concerns: none
• Minor concerns: cataract
• Occasionally seen: necrotic myelopathy, CHD
• Suggested tests: (eye)
• Life span: 12 – 14 years
• Note: sensitive to anesthesia; prone to tail injuries
Form and Function:
The Afghan is built along greyhound-like lines, enabling it to execute a double-suspension gallop and run-down fleet game. The comparatively short back and steep pelvis helped it to leap great heights and to turn almost in place, essential attributes for coursing in rocky mountainous terrain. The large feet gave it a better foothold and were more resistant to injury on rough ground. The silky coat protected the dog from cold nights at high altitudes. The Afghan appears dignified and aloof, with an exotic expression and proud carriage. This dog's gait shows great elasticity and spring; the Afghan moves with its head and tail high.
American Foxhound:
AKC Ranking: 148
Family: scenthound
Area of Origin: United States
Date of Origin: 1600s
Original Function: trailing fox
Today's Function: trailing fox
Avg Size of male: Height: 22-25 Weight: 40-65
Avg Size of Female: Height: 21-24 Weight: 40-65
Other Name: none
History:
This most American of breeds dates back to 1650, with the first record of fox-chasing hounds arriving from England. By the 1700s, riding to the hounds had become extremely popular with the upper class; even George Washington found it a favorite pastime. Imports from England, France and Ireland helped shape the breed. Foxhound pedigrees have been recorded in America since 1850. Around this same time, the sport spread to the southern United States, particularly the mountains of Kentucky and Tennessee, and hunters there preferred a faster dog with the ability to start, chase and kill a fox alone, and also to give chase to deer. The dogs became more streamlined than their English counterparts. The dogs further developed into different strains, the most popular being the "Walker." This strain descends from a dog named Tennessee Lead, alleged to have been stolen from a deer chase by a dog trader, who subsequently sold him to George Washington Mauphin, who is sometimes called the father of the breed. His breeding of this fast-running foxhound produced some of the best running dogs ever seen. Dogs from that strain were subsequently called Walker hounds because the Walker brothers kept careful records of dogs produced from this strain. Other strains of foxhounds include Trigg, Goodman, July, Calhoun and Hudspeth. These dogs eventually became specialized as either running hounds or show hounds, with the former being even further specialized as competitive field trial hounds and pack hounds. The pack type is generally considered the prototypical foxhound. These dogs combine great speed, endurance and jumping ability with a strong nose and willingness to give chase as a pack member. The American foxhound was one of the earliest breeds to be registered by the AKC, although registrations have never been particularly high. The low AKC registration numbers belie the foxhound's popularity, however, because most foxhounds are kept in large packs by hunters with little interest in AK
Temperament:
Although by tradition the foxhound is not a house pet, it is actually well-mannered in the home. It gets along best with human or canine companionship. It is a tolerant, amiable and gentle dog, even though it is not very demonstrative. Most are reserved with strangers. It is first and foremost a hunter, ever ready to hit the trail. It needs daily exercise in a safe area. Once on a scent, it will follow gleefully, heedless of commands. This is a dog that likes the outdoors; it is not a city dog. It bays.
Upkeep:
The foxhound needs daily exercise, preferably in the form of a long walk or jog. If allowed to run off leash, it should only do so in a safe, enclosed area. Foxhounds traditionally live outside, although only with warm shelter and bedding and in temperate climates. They are highly sociable, however, and should never be expected to live alone. The coat is easily maintained, requiring only occasional brushing to remove dead hair.
Health:
• Major concerns: none
• Minor concerns: thrombocytopathy
• Occasionally seen: none
• Suggested tests: (blood)
• Life span: 10 – 13 years
Form and Function:
The American foxhound is slighter of bone and higher on leg than the English foxhound, with more rear angulation and arch over the loin. These attributes give it greater speed and agility for hunting over rough terrain. It has a melodious voice when on the trail. Its coat is hard and of medium length. Its expression is gentle and pleading.
Basenji:
AKC Ranking: 79
Family: sighthound, scenthound, primitive, Southern (pariah)
Area of Origin: Central Africa (Zaire and the Congo)
Date of Origin: ancient
Original Function: hunting small game
Today's Function: lure coursing
Avg Size of male: Height: 17 Weight: 24
Avg Size of Female: Height: 16 Weight: 22
Other Name: Congo dog, Congo terrier
History:
The basenji is among the most primitive of breeds, discovered on the African Congo with Pygmy hunters. Early explorers called the dogs after the tribes that owned them or the area in which they were found, such as Zande dogs or Congo terriers. The native tribes used the dogs (which often wore large bells around their necks) as pack hunters, driving game into nets. Early attempts to bring basenjis to England in the late 1800s and early 1900s were unsuccessful because the dogs all succumbed to distemper. In the 1930s, a few dogs were successfully brought back to England and became the foundation (along with subsequent imports from the Congo and Sudan) of the breed outside of Africa. The name basenji, or "bush thing," was chosen. The early imports attracted much attention, and soon after the basenji was brought to America. The breed's popularity as both a pet and show dog grew modestly but steadily. In the 1950s, a surge of popularity occurred as a result of a book and movie featuring a basenji. The 1980s saw two important but controversial events for the basenji in America. First, several basenjis were brought from Africa in an attempt to widen the gene pool and combat some widespread hereditary health problems; some of these dogs introduced the previously unrecognized brindle color into the breed. Second, the basenji was recognized by the American Sighthound Field Association as a sighthound and was allowed to compete in lure-coursing trials. Its body structure and hunting style had previously been deemed too unsighthound-like. The basenji has always been hard to categorize. It retains several primitive characteristics, most notably its lack of barking ability and its yearly, rather than twice yearly, estrus cycle.
Temperament:
Some consider the basenji to have terrier-like mannerisms because it is feisty for a hound. More often it is considered catlike in mannerisms: clever, inquisitive, stubborn, independent and reserved. Its hunting roots are very evident, as it loves to chase and trail. It needs regular mental and physical stimulation, lest it become frustrated and destructive. Basenjis may be barkless, but they are not mute. They do make a sort of yodel, howl and shriek — and occasionally bark, but just one or two "fox barks" at a time.
Upkeep:
The basenji is an active dog that needs daily mental and physical exercise. Its needs can be met by a long walk followed by a vigorous game, or by running freely in a safe, enclosed area. It can live outdoors only in warm climates and generally does best as an indoor dog with access to a yard. Coat care is minimal, consisting of only occasional brushing to remove dead hair.
Health:
• Major concerns: Fanconi syndrome, PRA, basenji enteropathy
• Minor concerns: PPM, PK
• Occasionally seen: CHD
• Suggested tests: eye, DNA test for PK, Fanconi urine test
• Life span: 12 – 14 years
Form and Function:
The basenji is square-proportioned and high on leg. It is far more slightly built and longer-legged than most other primitive breeds, giving it a good amount of speed and the ability to perform the double-suspension gallop. Its erect ears help it locate prey in thick bush and may act as heat dissipaters. Its short coat also aids in dealing with the hot climate of Africa.
Basset Hound:
AKC Ranking: 25
Family: scenthound
Area of Origin: France
Date of Origin: 1500s
Original Function: trailing rabbits and hare
Today's Function: trailing rabbits and hare, field trials, basset field trials
Avg Size of male: Height: <14 Weight: 40-60
Avg Size of Female: Height: <14 Weight: 40-60
Other Name: none
History:
The first mention of the basset dog is found in a 16th-century text about badger hunting. Dwarfed short-legged specimens occur in many breeds and have been known since ancient times, but it is difficult to know at what point such dogs were purposefully bred and which ones led to the present basset hound. The word basset is derived from the French word bas, which means "low thing or dwarf," so that definitive evidence of the breed may be hard to follow. Short-legged dogs were used by the French for hunting at a slower pace, but most of these dogs were dispersed, and their fates undocumented, during the French Revolution. The history becomes clearer after the revolution, when greater numbers of commoners took up hunting, often aided by guns. They needed a dog that they could follow on foot, but that still had great scenting ability and strong, heavy bone — in essence, a short-legged version of the pack hounds popular with the aristocracy. Because the basset could not pursue its quarry at speed, the quarry was less likely to be on the run and thus presented an easier target for the gunman. The dogs would hunt all mammals but were especially suited for rabbits and hares. Four different versions of short-legged hounds were created, with the basset Artesien Normand most closely resembling today's basset. In the late 1800s (and again in 1930), crosses with bloodhounds were made to increase size; the results were then tempered with subsequent crosses to the Artesien Normand. The first bassets were brought to England and America in the late 1800s, and interest in the breed grew gradually. By the mid-1900s, the basset's droll expression had won it a place in advertising and entertainment and in many new pet owners' hearts.
Temperament:
The basset hound is among the most good-natured and easygoing of breeds. It is amiable with dogs, other pets and children, although children must be cautioned not to put strain on its back with their games. It is calm inside, but it needs regular exercise to keep fit. It prefers to investigate slowly, and loves to sniff and trail. It is a talented and determined tracker, not easily dissuaded from its course. Because of this, it may get on a trail and follow it until it becomes lost. It tends to be stubborn and slow-moving. It has a loud bay that it uses when excited on the trail.
Upkeep:
The basset needs mild daily exercise, which can be satisfied by walking on leash or playing in the yard. It does best as a house dog with access to a yard. Its coat needs only minimal grooming, but its face may need regular cleaning around the mouth and wrinkles. Bassets tend to drool.
Health:
• Major concerns: foreleg lameness, OCD, entropion, ectropion, otitis
externa, intervertebral disc disease, glaucoma, vWD, CTP, gastric
torsion
• Minor concerns: foot cysts and infection
• Occasionally seen: patellar luxation
• Suggested tests: eye, blood
• Life span: 8 – 12 years
• Note: Obesity is a problem in the breed, especially because it
contributes to intervertebral disk disease.
Form and Function:
The basset's long, heavy body and short legs make it easy to follow on foot and give it an edge in dense cover. The basset hound has heavier bone, in proportion to its total size, than any other breed. Its thick, tight coat protects it from brambles without becoming caught in them. It is speculated that its long ears may stir up ground scent, and the wrinkles trap the scent around the face. The large muzzle gives ample room for the olfactory apparatus. Such room would not be available in a miniature dog; only a large dog with shortened legs can combine the short height with large muzzle size. The basset's movement is smooth and powerful; it tends to move with nose to the ground.
Beagle:
AKC Ranking: 3
Family: scenthound
Area of Origin: England
Date of Origin: 1300s
Original Function: trailing rabbits
Today's Function: trailing rabbits, field trials, contraband detection, beagle field trials.
Avg Size of male: Height: 13-15 Weight: 18-30
Avg Size of Female: Height: 13-15 Weight: 18-30
Other Name: English beagle
History:
By the 14th century, hare hunting had become a popular sport in England, and the dogs used were probably of beagle type. The origin of the name beagle may be from Old French words meaning "open throat" in reference to the breed's melodious bay, or from the Celtic, Old English or Old French words for "small." The word beagle was not used until 1475, however, but can then be found frequently in writings from the 16th century on. Hunters could follow these dogs on foot and could even carry one in a pocket if the need arose. By the 1800s, beagles existed in several sizes, but the smaller "pocket-size" dogs were particularly popular. These dogs measured only about 9 inches and often needed the hunter's assistance in crossing rough fields. One of the special appeals of the smaller beagles was that the hunt could be followed even by "ladies, the aged or the infirm," as they slowly followed the winding path of the hare. The first mention of the beagle in America was in 1642. Beagles were used in the South prior to the Civil War, but these dogs bore little resemblance to their English counterparts. After the war, English imports formed the basis of the modern American beagle. By the end of the 19th century, beagles were popular competitors in both field and conformation exhibitions. But the merry little scenthound did not stop there: It continued to become one of America's all-time favorite breeds, finding its special niche as a family pet.
Temperament:
One of the most amiable hounds, the beagle was bred as a pack hunter and needs companionship, whether human or canine. It loves to explore the outdoors and is an enthusiastic trailer. Given adequate exercise, it is a calm, tractable house pet. It is an excellent child's dog, gentle, incredibly tolerant and always ready to join in a game or an adventure. It is an independent breed, however, and may run off if a trail beckons. It barks and howls.
Upkeep:
The beagle needs daily exercise, either a long walk on leash or a romp in a safe area. It can live outdoors in temperate climates as long as it is given warm shelter and bedding. It is a social dog, however, and needs the companionship of either other dogs or its human family; as such, it is usually happiest if it can divide its time between the house and yard.
Health:
• Major concerns: intervertebral disc disease, CHD
• Minor concerns: glaucoma, epilepsy
• Occasionally seen: deafness, hemophilia A, cataracts
• Suggested tests: hip, (eye)
• Life span: 12 – 15 years
Form and Function:
The beagle should look like a miniature foxhound, solid for its size. The beagle's moderate size enables it to be followed on foot. It can also be carried to the hunt, and once there, can scurry around in thick underbrush. Its close hard coat protects it from underbrush. Its moderate build enables it to nimbly traverse rough terrain. The beagle's amiable personality allows it to get along with other dogs and to be a successful pack hunter. The beagle is noted for its melodious bay, which helps hunters locate it from a distance.
Black and Tan Coonhound:
AKC Ranking: 136
Family: scenthound
Area of Origin: United States
Date of Origin: 1700s
Original Function: hunting raccoons
Today's Function: hunting raccoons, night hunts
Avg Size of male: Height: 25-27 Weight: 55-75
Avg Size of Female: Height: 23-25 Weight: 55-75
Other Name: American black and tan coonhound
History:
A true American breed, the black and tan coonhound probably originated from crosses of the bloodhound and the foxhound, particularly the black and tan Virginia foxhound. The black and tan coonhound developed mostly in the Appalachian, Blue Ridge, Ozark and Smoky mountains, where these dogs were used to hunt raccoons and bears over fairly rugged terrain. They trailed in the fashion of their bloodhound ancestors, with nose to ground but at a somewhat swifter pace. Although they will trail any mammal, they specialize in raccoons and opossums, often trailing at night. When the quarry is treed, the dogs bay until the hunter arrives and shoots the animal. The AKC recognized the breed in 1945, but the black and tan has always been much more popular as a hunting dog than as a show dog or pet. Organized night hunts are extremely competitive and popular, and the United Kennel Club holds many bench shows for coonhounds only, in which black and tan coonhounds, blue tick coonhounds, redbone coonhounds, English coonhounds, Plott hounds and treeing Walkers compete.
Temperament:
Not the prototypical house dog, the black and tan coonhound, nonetheless, makes an exemplary pet. It is mellow, amiable, calm and unobtrusive indoors. Outdoors, its strong hunting instincts take over, and it can be difficult, if not impossible, to turn from a track after it starts trailing. As befitting a dog with its heritage, the black and tan is strong, independent and stubborn. It is gentle and tolerant with children, but it may be too independent to satisfy a playful child. It is reserved with strangers. It may bay and howl.
Upkeep:
The black and tan is a dog that can run for miles, although it is usually content with a moderate jog or long walk, with an occasional excursion into the field. It can wander if it catches a scent, so a safe area is mandatory. Its coat needs only occasional brushing. Most coonhounds drool to some extent, and the face may need regular wiping. The ears should also be checked regularly.
Health:
• Major concerns: CHD
• Minor concerns: ectropion
• Occasionally seen: hemophilia B
• Suggested tests: hip, (eye)
• Life span: 10 – 12 years
Form and Function:
The black and tan coonhound's moderate build gives it a blend of strength, speed and agility. It is square or slightly longer than tall, with moderate bone. Its long ears may help stir up ground scents. Its deep muzzle allows room for olfactory apparatus. Its deep voice enables the hunter to locate the dog when it has treed its quarry. Its hair is short but dense, providing an all-weather-protective coat. Its expression is alert, friendly and eager. Its stride is easy and graceful, with head and tail held high.
Bloodhound:
AKC Ranking: 49
Family: scenthound
Area of Origin: Belgium, England
Date of Origin: Middle Ages
Original Function: trailing
Today's Function: trailing humans, search and rescue
Avg Size of male: Height: 25-27 Weight: 90-110
Avg Size of Female: Height: 23-25 Weight: 80-100
Other Name: St. Hubert hound, chien St. Hubert
History:
The quintessential scenthound, the bloodhound traces its roots to ancient times. Its earliest ancestor may have been the black St. Hubert hound documented in Europe by the eighth century. William the Conqueror is credited with bringing these hounds to England in 1066. In the 12th century, many church dignitaries were interested in hunting with these dogs, and most monasteries kept carefully bred packs. So highly bred were these dogs that they came to be known as "blooded hounds," referring to their pure blood and noble breeding. Bloodhounds have been known in America since the mid-1800s. Even though they gained a reputation as slave trailers, many of those dogs were mixed scenthounds. The bloodhound has since proved itself to be one of the most useful breeds, using its unrivaled sense of smell to trail lost persons and criminals alike. After the person is located, the bloodhound's job is over because it is never inclined to attack. The bloodhound holds many trailing records (for both length and age of trail), and at one time it was the only breed of dog whose identifications were accepted in a court of law. Ironically, the bloodhound's name and bad press scared many people away from the breed because they believed stories that claimed the dogs trailed people out of a lust for blood. Nothing, of course, could be further from the truth. The breed is well-known to all but not particularly popular as a pet; it is a competitive show dog and unsurpassed working trailer, however.
Temperament:
For all its calm manners at home, the bloodhound is a tireless trailer once on the track. It is tough, stubborn and independent, yet it is so gentle and placid that it is extremely trustworthy around children — although it may not be playful enough for some children's needs. Nonetheless, it is not the lazy ol' hound dog portrayed in folklore but instead an active, playful companion. Although not the easiest breed to train for traditional obedience, it is exceptionally easy to train in tasks involving trailing. The bloodhound is reserved with strangers.
Upkeep:
As a hunting hound, the bloodhound needs a good deal of daily exercise. It was bred to trail through any hardship, and once on a trail it cannot be called off. It thus must be exercised in a safe area. The bloodhound drools a lot, so its facial wrinkles require daily cleaning; the ear tips drag in food and must also be kept clean. The ear canals also need regular cleaning for good health. Coat care is minimal, requiring only occasional brushing or wiping. Bloodhounds can live outside in temperate climates if they are given plenty of shelter and soft, warm bedding. Most do best as indoor/outdoor dogs; note, however, that this is not the breed for people obsessed with cleanliness in the house!
Health:
• Major concerns: ectropion, entropion, gastric torsion, otitis
externa, skin-fold dermatitis, CHD, elbow dysplasia
• Minor concerns: none
• Occasionally seen: none
• Suggested tests: hip, elbow, eye
• Life span: 7 – 10 years
Form and Function:
The bloodhound is a steadfast trailer, built for endurance rather than speed. Its skin is thin and loose, falling in wrinkles around its head and throat. Its long ears are supposed to stir up scents as the ears rake along the ground, and its profuse wrinkles are said to trap the odors around the face, although neither of these assertions has ever been scientifically verified. Its dense short coat protects it from being caught in brambles. Its docile temperament makes it nonthreatening to the humans it is sometimes now called upon to trail. Its gait is elastic and free, with tail held high. Its expression is noble and dignified.
Borzoi:
AKC Ranking: 93
Family: sighthound, Southern (sighthound)
Area of Origin: Russia
Date of Origin: Middle Ages
Original Function: coursing wolves
Today's Function: lure coursing
Avg Size of male: Height: >28 Weight: 75-105
Avg Size of Female: Height: >26 Weight: 60-85
Other Name: Russian wolfhound
History:
The borzoi (also known as the Russian wolfhound) was bred by the Russian aristocracy for hundreds of years. Coursing of hare for sport was known in Russia as early as the 13th century. In the 15th and 16th centuries, crosses of coursing hounds with bear hounds and with tall Russian sheepdogs were made to increase size and coat, both necessary for hunting wolves in the cold climate. The first standard was written in the 1600s in a book of borzoi hunting rules. Perhaps no other breed has ever been the focus of hunting on such a grand scale. Hundreds of serfs worked in the upkeep of the hounds on huge estates; the hunts themselves were grand events. One account describes the hounds, horses, beaters and hunters arriving in a train of over 40 cars, with another train bringing the grand duke and other nobility. Over 100borzois might partake in a hunt. Beaters and scenthounds initially trailed the wolf, followed by hunters on horseback. A pair or trio (consisting of two males and a female) of matched borzois were then unleashed when the wolf was sighted. The dogs would strike at the same time, forcing the wolf down and holding it until the hunter arrived to bind the wolf and then, often, set it free. By the 1800s, seven distinct subtypes of borzoi existed in Russia. Most present borzois descend from the Perchino type kept by Grand Duke Nicolai Nicolayevitch, and many of the early American imports came directly from the Perchino kennels. The Russian czar would often present borzois as gifts to visiting royalty. After the Russian Revolution, the days of the nobility were over and many borzois were killed. The fate of the breed was left in the hands of foreign royalty who had been given borzois and of a few remaining borzoi kennels. In America, the borzoi soon gained the reputation as the ultimate glamour dog, often seen at the sides of movie stars. Although only enjoying modest popularity as a pet, the breed remains a popular show dog, coursing dog and model.
Temperament:
A breed of quiet elegance, the borzoi exemplifies the well-mannered house dog. Outdoors, it races with wild abandon, and it will chase any small animal that runs. It is independent but very sensitive. Although generally good with children, it may not be playful enough to satisfy some children. Some can be timid. It is reserved with strangers.
Upkeep:
The borzoi needs the chance to exert itself daily. Although a long walk can satisfy most of its needs, it should be combined with a sprint in a large safe area. The coat, which is characteristically fuller on males, needs brushing or combing two or three times a week; at times it sheds a lot. Borzois can live outdoors in temperate climates as long as they have soft bedding and good shelter, but most do best as house dogs with access to a yard.
Health:
• Major concerns: gastric torsion
• Minor concerns: none
• Occasionally seen: none
• Suggested tests: none
• Life span: 10 – 12 years
• Note: sensitive to anesthesia
Form and Function:
The borzoi is a running hound capable of hunting large, fierce game in a very cold climate. As such, it retains the greyhound build necessary for running at great speed, but it is larger and stronger than the greyhound. Its jaws should be strong enough to hold down a wolf. The long, silky coat, which can be either flat, wavy or rather curly, provides protection against cold weather and snow. Borzois should possess elegance and grace, with flowing lines, whether standing or moving.
Dachshund - Standard:
AKC Ranking: 5
Family: scenthound, terrier, dachshund
Area of Origin: Germany
Date of Origin: 1500s
Original Function: flushing badgers
Today's Function: earthdog trials, dachshund field trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 8-9 Weight: 11-32
Avg Size of Female: Height: 8-9 Weight: 11-32
Other Name: teckel (miniature: zwergteckel)
History:
Definitive evidence of the dachshund as a breed isn't found until the 16th century, when reference was made to a "low crooked-legged" dog called a little burrow dog, dacksel or badger dog. The modern name dachshund means simply badger (dachs) dog (hund) in German. These tenacious hunters would follow their quarry, enter its burrow, pull it out and kill it. The dachshund comes in three coat varieties and two sizes. The original dachshunds were smooth-coated and arose from crosses of the bracke, a miniature French pointer, with the pinscher, a vermin killer of terrier type. Some 16th-century woodcuts provide evidence of longer-haired dachshund-like dogs. It is also possible that smooth dachshunds were later crossed with spaniels and the German stoberhund (a gun dog) to produce the longhaired variety. Mention is made of wire-coated dachshunds as early as 1797, but these dogs were not carefully bred and most modern wires were created around the end of the 19th century by crossing smooth dachshunds with German wirehaired pinschers and the Dandie Dinmont terrier. Each of these varieties was best suited for hunting under slightly different terrain and climatic conditions, but all were tough, strong dogs capable of dispatching badgers, foxes and other small mammals. Before 1900, very small dachshunds were kept for going to ground after small quarry, such as rabbits. Although some were simply runts, others were intentionally produced from crosses with toy terriers or pinschers. Most of the resulting miniatures lacked dachshund type, however. By 1910, stricter criteria were adopted for type, and each coat type was crossed with different breeds to achieve the best results: Smooths were bred with the miniature pinscher, longs with the papillon and wires with the miniature schnauzer. The dachshund has since found its real niche as a family pet, steadily rising in popularity to hold a place as one of the most popular hounds in America.
Temperament:
The dachshund is bold, curious and always up for adventure. It likes to hunt and dig, tracking by scent and going to ground after game. It is independent but will join in its family's activities whenever given a chance. It is good with children in its own family, but some may snap at strange children. Most are reserved with strangers. Some bark. The longhaired variety may be quieter and less terrier-like; the wires may be more outgoing. Some miniatures are more prone to be timid.
Upkeep:
Although dachsunds are active, their exercise requirements can be met with moderate walks on leash and games in the yard. The dachsund is amenable to city life or apartment living, but it is still a hunter at heart and enjoys forays into the wilds. Although it can live outdoors in warm weather, it does best when sleeping inside. The smooth coat requires minimal grooming. The long coat requires brushing or combing once or twice weekly and occasional trimming of stray hairs. The wire coat requires brushing or combing about once a week, with occasional trimming of stray hairs and stripping to remove dead hair twice a year.
Health:
• Major concerns: intervertebral disc disease
• Minor concerns: KCS
• Occasionally seen: diabetes, epilepsy, patellar luxation, deafness, gastric torsion
• Suggested tests: (eye)
• Life span: 12 – 14 years
• Note: Obesity is a major problem for the dachshund. Many dachshunds tend to be overweight, which in turn predisposes them to
intervertebral disc disease.
Form and Function:
The dachshund's long, low-slung body enables it to enter and move freely inside the confines of a den or tunnel, without sacrificing the necessary jaw and body strength to overcome its quarry. Its confidence, hunting instinct, keen nose and loud voice also are of significant aid in hunting underground. Agility, freedom of movement and endurance are necessary for the dachshund's work, and its gait is fluid and smooth. The dachshund has an energetic, pleasant expression. Each of the three coat varieties has special attributes: The smooth is short and shining, imparting some protection against the elements; the longhair is sleek, sometimes slightly wavy, providing somewhat more protection; the wire has tight, thick and hard hair with a finer undercoat, providing maximal protection.
Dachshund - Minature:
AKC Ranking: 5
Family: scenthound, terrier, dachshund
Area of Origin: Germany
Date of Origin: 1500s
Original Function: flushing badgers
Today's Function: earthdog trials, dachshund field trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 5-6 Weight: 1-11
Avg Size of Female: Height: 5-6 Weight: 1-11
Other Name: teckel (miniature: zwergteckel)
History:
Definitive evidence of the dachshund as a breed isn't found until the 16th century, when reference was made to a "low crooked-legged" dog called a little burrow dog, dacksel or badger dog. The modern name dachshund means simply badger (dachs) dog (hund) in German. These tenacious hunters would follow their quarry, enter its burrow, pull it out and kill it. The dachshund comes in three coat varieties and two sizes. The original dachshunds were smooth-coated and arose from crosses of the bracke, a miniature French pointer, with the pinscher, a vermin killer of terrier type. Some 16th-century woodcuts provide evidence of longer-haired dachshund-like dogs. It is also possible that smooth dachshunds were later crossed with spaniels and the German stoberhund (a gun dog) to produce the longhaired variety. Mention is made of wire-coated dachshunds as early as 1797, but these dogs were not carefully bred and most modern wires were created around the end of the 19th century by crossing smooth dachshunds with German wirehaired pinschers and the Dandie Dinmont terrier. Each of these varieties was best suited for hunting under slightly different terrain and climatic conditions, but all were tough, strong dogs capable of dispatching badgers, foxes and other small mammals. Before 1900, very small dachshunds were kept for going to ground after small quarry, such as rabbits. Although some were simply runts, others were intentionally produced from crosses with toy terriers or pinschers. Most of the resulting miniatures lacked dachshund type, however. By 1910, stricter criteria were adopted for type, and each coat type was crossed with different breeds to achieve the best results: Smooths were bred with the miniature pinscher, longs with the papillon and wires with the miniature schnauzer. The dachshund has since found its real niche as a family pet, steadily rising in popularity to hold a place as one of the most popular hounds in America.
Temperament:
The dachshund is bold, curious and always up for adventure. It likes to hunt and dig, tracking by scent and going to ground after game. It is independent but will join in its family's activities whenever given a chance. It is good with children in its own family, but some may snap at strange children. Most are reserved with strangers. Some bark. The longhaired variety may be quieter and less terrier-like; the wires may be more outgoing. Some miniatures are more prone to be timid.
Upkeep:
Although dachsunds are active, their exercise requirements can be met with moderate walks on leash and games in the yard. The dachsund is amenable to city life or apartment living, but it is still a hunter at heart and enjoys forays into the wilds. Although it can live outdoors in warm weather, it does best when sleeping inside. The smooth coat requires minimal grooming. The long coat requires brushing or combing once or twice weekly and occasional trimming of stray hairs. The wire coat requires brushing or combing about once a week, with occasional trimming of stray hairs and stripping to remove dead hair twice a year.
Health:
• Major concerns: intervertebral disc disease
• Minor concerns: KCS
• Occasionally seen: diabetes, epilepsy, patellar luxation, deafness,
gastric torsion
• Suggested tests: (eye)
• Life span: 12 – 14 years
• Note: Obesity is a major problem for the dachshund. Many dachshunds tend to be overweight, which in turn predisposes them to intervertebral disc disease.
Form and Function:
The dachshund's long, low-slung body enables it to enter and move freely inside the confines of a den or tunnel, without sacrificing the necessary jaw and body strength to overcome its quarry. Its confidence, hunting instinct, keen nose and loud voice also are of significant aid in hunting underground. Agility, freedom of movement and endurance are necessary for the dachshund's work, and its gait is fluid and smooth. The dachshund has an energetic, pleasant expression. Each of the three coat varieties has special attributes: The smooth is short and shining, imparting some protection against the elements; the longhair is sleek, sometimes slightly wavy, providing somewhat more protection; the wire has tight, thick and hard hair with a finer undercoat, providing maximal protection.
English Foxhound:
AKC Ranking: 151
Family: scenthound
Area of Origin: Great Britain
Date of Origin: 1700s
Original Function: trailing fox
Today's Function: trailing fox
Avg Size of male: Height: 23-27 Weight: 55-75
Avg Size of Female: Height: 23-27 Weight: 55-75
Other Name: foxhound
History:
Careful pedigrees have been kept of English foxhounds since the late 1700s — longer than for any other breed. Still, the exact origin of the breed is unknown. At the time of its inception, coursing the stag with greyhounds was still the favored dog sport of the gentry. Around 1750, a few men envisioned hunting foxes with swift horses and hounds. The hounds would have to be able to track a faint scent while on the run and to maintain their chase for hours. Fox hunting gained its appeal as a pastime of the wealthy, and packs of hounds were tended to by masters of foxhounds, who looked to the care and breeding of the dogs. Riding to the hounds became an affair steeped in ceremony, with the actual killing of the fox anticlimatic. As the esthetic aspects of the hunt increased in significance, care was taken to produce dogs that looked good not only individually but also as a pack. Thus, pack members would usually share the same coat coloration, most often the black saddle over a tan body with white points. Fox hunting became so popular that by the late 1800s, 140 packs (each with about 50 hounds) were registered in England alone. Foxhounds came to America in the 1700s, although in time a good percentage of these dogs were bred with other dogs to produce the American foxhound. The latter has since surpassed the English foxhound in popularity in America, although neither is popular as a pet or show dog. The English foxhound is still the first choice of hunters wishing a traditional outing on horseback, riding to the melodious bay of this most classic of breeds.
Temperament:
Traditionally a pack hound, the English foxhound nonetheless makes a stately house dog, as long as it has human or canine companionship. It gets along well with horses, dogs, children and other pets. It is an avid sniffer and trailer, however, and needs daily exercise in a safe area. It is a tolerant, amiable and gentle dog, even though it is not very demonstrative. Most are reserved with strangers. It is not well-suited for city life. It bays.
Upkeep:
The foxhound is an easygoing dog that nonetheless needs plenty of exercise. It is bred to run for miles, and it can make a good jogging companion on leash or a hiking companion in a safe area. It can live outdoors in temperate climates as long as it has warm shelter and bedding and, preferably, another foxhound. The coat needs only occasional brushing to remove dead hair.
Health:
• Major concerns: none
• Minor concerns: none
• Occasionally seen: CHD, renal disease
• Suggested tests: none
• Life span: 10 – 13 years
Form and Function:
The English foxhound is of powerful build, with large bone. The size of bone at the ankle is considered especially important. This build, along with comparatively straight angulation of the stifles, favors stamina over speed. The rich, deep voice is prized for the hunt. Many English foxhounds have "rounded" ears, in which about 1 =" are surgically removed from the end of the ear.
Greyhound:
AKC Ranking: 131
Family: sighthound, Southern (sighthound)
Area of Origin: Great Britain
Date of Origin: ancient times
Original Function: coursing hares
Today's Function: racing, lure coursing, open-field coursing
Avg Size of male: Height: 27-30 Weight: 65-70
Avg Size of Female: Height: 27-30 Weight: 60-65
Other Name: none
History:
One of the first types of dogs selectively bred by humans was the sighthound, a dog that could run after and catch game by outrunning it. The prototypical sighthound has always been the greyhound. Greyhound-like dogs have been depicted since ancient Egyptian, Greek and Roman times. The name greyhound may come from Graius, meaning "Greek," or from the Latin gradus, denoting "high grade." By the time of the Saxons, greyhounds were well-established in Britain and were valued both by commoners, for their ability to put food on the table, and by nobility, for the sport of the chase. In 1014 the Forest Laws prohibited all but nobility from keeping greyhounds near royal forests unless they had been "lamed"; these laws remained in effect for 400 years. Even when they were repealed, greyhounds remained the dogs of nobility because with the growing importance of agriculture and domestic animal food sources, the running dog was not economically advantageous. Instead, greyhounds were used for coursing hare for sport, and during the 1800s coursing became a consuming pastime of the upper class. Early American immigrants often brought greyhounds with them to the New World, where they proved adept at coursing on the open plains. When coursing was made available to the masses by staging it first in closed parks and then on tracks after a mechanical lure, the greyhound's fate was sealed. Track racing proved so popular that dogs were bred specifically for short bursts of speed, ultimately resulting in the fastest breed of dog. At the same time, greyhounds entered the show ring. The breed soon became divided into show and racing types, which were seldom interbred. In America, the greyhound is one of the least popular breeds according to AKC registrations of show stock. The National Greyhound Association registers many thousands of greyhounds annually; however, recently retired racers from NGA stock have become popular as pets.
Temperament:
Known as "the world's fastest couch potato," the greyhound is quiet, calm and extremely well-mannered indoors. They are good with other dogs, and with other pets if raised with them; outdoors, they tend to chase any small thing that moves. They are reserved with strangers, very sensitive and sometimes timid. Despite their independent nature, they are eager to please.
Upkeep:
The greyhound needs daily exercise, but it is a sprinter, not an endurance runner. Its needs can thus be met with a chance to run, or by a longer walk on leash. It loves to run and chase outdoors, and can easily run into danger at great speed unless exercised in a safe area. It is not generally amenable to living outdoors. Greyhounds relish creature comforts and must have soft bedding and warmth. The coat is extremely easy to care for, needing only occasional brushing to remove dead hair.
Health:
• Major concerns: none
• Minor concerns: esophageal achalasia, gastric torsion, osteosarcoma
• Occasionally seen: none
• Suggested tests: none
• Life span: 10 – 13 years
• Note: Racing injuries — especially toe, hock and muscle injuries — are common in retired NGA dogs. Both NGA and AKC greyhounds are sensitive to anesthesia and are prone to lacerations and tail-tip injuries.
Form and Function:
The ultimate running dog, the greyhound is built for speed. Its long legs and arched back enable it to contract and stretch maximally while executing the double-suspension gallop. It has tremendous muscle mass and light legs, further enhancing speed. The feet are long and narrow, giving maximum leverage. The long tail serves as a rudder and brake when running at high speed. The coat is short and smooth. Two types of greyhounds are available: AKC (show) and NGA (racing). Retired NGA greyhounds are smaller, sturdier and faster than show dogs and may be more inclined to chase small animals.
Harrier:
AKC Ranking: 149
Family: scenthound
Area of Origin: Great Britain
Date of Origin: Middle Ages
Original Function: trailing hares
Today's Function: trailing hare and fox
Avg Size of male: Height: 19-21 Weight: 45-60
Avg Size of Female: Height: 19-21 Weight: 35-45
Other Name: none
History:
The word harier was Norman for dog or hound, so it is difficult to unravel the ancient history of hounds in general. nonetheless, the harrier may be one of the older scenthounds still in existence today, with references dating from 13th-century England. They probably stem from the long-extinct Talbot and St. Hubert hounds, and perhaps the Brachet and later, the French basset. This lineage produced a dog that tracked hare by scent at a pace that enabled hunters to follow on foot. Thus, although harrier packs were kept by the gentry, poorer hunters without horses could also hunt with harriers, often combining the few dogs each individual had to form an impromptu pack. Smaller English foxhounds may have been bred with these dogs in the early 1800s to develop a longer-legged, faster dog also capable of running with mounted hunters. The harrier has been known in America since Colonial times. Despite its classic proportions and handy size, it has never been popular as a show dog or pet.
Temperament:
The harrier is somewhat more playful and outgoing than the foxhound, but not as much as the beagle. It is amiable, tolerant and good with children. Its first love is for the hunt, and it loves to sniff and trail. It needs daily exercise in a safe area. Most are reserved with strangers. It tends to bay.
Upkeep:
The harrier needs daily exercise, but its needs can be met with a long walk or jog and a vigorous game in the yard. It can live outdoors in temperate climates as long as it is given warm shelter and bedding. The coat is easily cared for, needing only occasional brushing to remove dead hair.
Health:
• Major concerns: none
• Minor concerns: none
• Occasionally seen: none
• Suggested tests: none
• Life span: 10 – 12 years
Form and Function:
The harrier is a smaller version of the English foxhound, more suited for hunting hares. It has large bone for its size, and is slightly longer than tall. It is a scenting pack hound and should be capable of running with other dogs, scenting its quarry and hunting tirelessly over any terrain for long periods. It has a gentle expression when relaxed and alert when aroused. The coat is short and hard.
The dogs of the herding group:
Australian Cattle Dog:
AKC Ranking: 73
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: Australia
Date of Origin: 1800s
Original Function: cattle herding
Today's Function: cattle herding, herding trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 18-20 Weight: 35-45
Avg Size of Female: Height: 17-19 Weight: 35-45
Other Name: Queensland heeler, blue heeler, Hall's heeler
History:
In the early 1800s, vast land areas in Australia became available for grazing cattle. The cattle raised on these lands became so wild and intractable that the traditional European herding breeds that had proved satisfactory on tamer cattle were no longer suited for the job. A dog was needed that could withstand traveling long distances over rough terrain in hot weather and that could control cattle without barking (which only served to make wild cattle wilder). In 1840, a man named Hall bred some smooth blue-merle Highland collies to dingos, producing a strain known as Hall's heelers. One particularly influential stud was a dog named Bentley's dog, who is credited with stamping the white blaze found on the head of Australian cattle dogs today. Other breeders crossed their Hall's heelers with other breeds, including the bull terrier, Dalmatian and, later, black-and-tan kelpie, a sheep-herding breed. The result was a dog with the herding instincts of the collie and kelpie; the endurance, ruggedness and quiet style of the dingo; and the horse sense and protectiveness of the Dalmatian, all with a distinctively patterned coat. As the dogs became increasingly vital to the cattle industry of Queensland, they gained the name Queensland blue heeler. They later became known as Australian heeler, and then Australian cattle dog. A standard for the breed, emphasizing its dingo characteristics, was drawn up in 1897. The Australian cattle dog was slow to catch on in America, however, perhaps because it bore little resemblance to established herding breeds. When given a chance, it proved its merits and was welcomed as a herder and pet. The AKC recognized the breed in 1980, and it has since become a capable show dog, without sacrificing its functional makeup.
Temperament:
Smart, hardy, independent, stubborn, tenacious, energetic and untiring — these are all traits essential to a driver of headstrong cattle, and all traits of the Australian cattle dog. This dog must have a job to do or it will expend its efforts on unacceptable jobs of its own. Given challenging mental and hard physical exercise daily, it is among the most responsive and obedient of dogs, an exemplary partner in adventure. It tends to nip at the heels of running children.
Upkeep:
The Australian cattle dog was bred to be active and tireless. This dog needs a lot of physical and mental activity, more than a simple walk on a leash can provide. A good jog or long workout, coupled with obedience lessons or other intellectual challenges, is essential every day. It is happiest when it has a job to perform, and especially when that job is herding. The Australian cattle dog can live outdoors in temperate to cool climates. It is unsuited for apartment life. Its coat needs brushing or combing weekly to remove dead hairs.
Health:
• Major concerns: CHD, OCD, deafness, PRA
• Minor concerns: none
• Occasionally seen: cataract, lens luxation, PPM, vWD
• Suggested tests: hip, hearing, eye
• Life span: 10 – 13 years
Form and Function:
The Australian cattle dog is of moderate build, enabling it to combine great endurance with bursts of speed and the extreme agility necessary in controlling unruly cattle. It is sturdy and compact, slightly longer than it is tall. Its gait is supple and tireless, and it must be capable of quick and sudden movement. Its ability to stop quickly is aided by the rudderlike action of its tail (which is never docked). Its weather-resistant coat consists of a short, dense undercoat and moderately short, straight outer coat of medium texture.
Australian shepherd:
AKC Ranking: 34
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: United States
Date of Origin: 1800s
Original Function: sheep herding
Today's Function: sheep herding, herding trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 20-23 Weight: 50-65
Avg Size of Female: Height: 18-21 Weight: 40-55
Other Name: none
History:
The Australian shepherd is not really an Australian breed, but it came to America by way of Australia. One popular theory of the breed's origin begins during the 1800s, when the Basque people of Europe settled in Australia, bringing with them their sheep and sheepdogs. Shortly thereafter, many of these shepherds relocated to the western United States, with their dogs and sheep. American shepherds naturally dubbed these dogs Australian shepherds because that was their immediate past residence. The rugged area of Australia and western America placed demands on the herding dogs that they had not faced in Europe, but through various crosses and rigorous selection for working ability, the Basque dog soon adapted and excelled under these harsh conditions. The breed kept a low profile until the 1950s, when it was featured in a popular trick-dog act that performed in rodeos and was featured in film. Many of these dogs, owned by Jay Sisler, can be found in the pedigrees of today's Aussies. The first Aussie was registered with the International English Shepherd Registry, now known as the National Stock Dog Registry. In 1957 the Australian Shepherd Club of America was formed and subsequently became the largest Aussie registry in America. Because many ASCA members felt that AKC recognition was not desirable for their breed, proponents of AKC recognition formed the United States Australian Shepherd Association. The AKC recognized the Australian shepherd in 1993. Its popularity according to AKC statistics underestimates the popularity of this breed as a pet because a large proportion of this working breed remains unregistered with the AKC. It is among the most versatile of breeds, excelling at conformation, obedience, herding and agility competition. The Aussie is also adept at working cattle; in fact, some believe its close working style is more suited to cattle than to sheep.
Temperament:
The Australian shepherd has a great deal of stamina and is loving, bold, alert, confident, independent, smart and responsive. If it doesn't get a chance to exercise and challenge its strongly developed mental and physical activities, it is apt to become frustrated and difficult to live with. With proper exercise and training, it is a loyal, utterly devoted and obedient companion. It is reserved with strangers and has a protective nature. It may try to herd children and small animals by nipping.
Upkeep:
This breed needs a good workout every day, preferably combining both physical and mental challenges. Even though it is physically able to live outside in temperate climates, it is a breed for which human contact is so vital that it is emotionally unsuited for a life in the yard. Its coat needs brushing or combing one to two times weekly.
Health:
• Major concerns: cataract, CEA
• Minor concerns: CHD, nasal solar dermatitis, Pelger – Huet syndrome, iris coloboma
• Occasionally seen: lumbar sacral syndrome, epilepsy, PRA, vWD, distichiasis, PDA, PPM
• Suggested tests: hip, eye
• Life span: 12 – 15 years
• Note: This breed is often sensitive to ivermectin; however, the dosage for heartworm preventive is considered safe. Merle-to-merle breedings result in some offspring that are homozygous merle, which is detrimental to health, commonly resulting in deafness and blindness. Natural bobtail-to-natural bobtail breedings can result in some offspring with serious spinal defects.
Form and Function:
This is an athletic dog of medium size and bone; it is lithe, agile and slightly longer than it is tall. It is muscular and powerful enough to work all day, without sacrificing the speed and agility necessary to cope with bolting livestock. Its gait is free and easy, and it must be able to change direction or speed instantly. Its double coat is weather resistant, with the outer coat of medium texture and length, straight to wavy. The expression is keen, intelligent and eager.
Bearded Collie:
AKC Ranking: 101
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: Scotland
Date of Origin: 1800s
Original Function: sheep herding
Today's Function: herding trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 21-22 Weight: 45-55
Avg Size of Female: Height: 20-21 Weight: 45-55
Other Name: none
History:
The bearded collie probably originated from the central European Magyar komondor or lowland Polish sheepdog. In fact, records show that in 1514 two lowland Polish sheepdogs were brought to Scotland by Polish traders. Although dogs strongly resembling bearded collies are depicted in art dating from the 18th century, hard evidence of the breed cannot be found until the early-19th century, when the first breed description was published. These dogs were tireless herders of sheep and drovers of cattle over rough terrain in the cold Scottish mists. Long popular as a herding dog in Scotland, after the Victorian era the breed also gained favor as a show dog. Two strains, the border strain, which was brown and white with a slightly wavy coat, and the Highland strain, which had a gray and white coat, have since been interbred and merged into one breed. After World War I, the "beardie" was once again bred solely for work. Their value as stock dogs made it difficult for outsiders to acquire one from their shepherd owners. Eventually, however, a few breeders interested in showing beardies were able to bring some dogs to England and then to America. The AKC recognized the breed in 1977. It has since become a prominent show dog and continues as a capable herder, although it is more popular as a competitor in herding trials than as an actual working dog.
Temperament:
The boisterous beardie is lively and playful, full of enthusiasm and energy. It is smart and obedient, but it is an independent thinker with a clownish sense of humor. It likes children, but it may be too rambunctious for small children and may try to herd them when playing.
Upkeep:
This active dog needs either a good jog, a very long walk or a vigorous play session every day. It especially enjoys herding. The beardie can live outside in cool climates, but it is happier when allowed access to the house with its family. Its long coat needs brushing or combing every other day.
Health:
• Major concerns: none
• Minor concerns: CHD, epilepsy, colonic disease, pemphigus
• Occasionally seen: CHD, aortic stenosis, PRA, PPM, cataract, vWD
• Suggested tests: hip, (eye), (cardiac)
• Life span: 12 – 14 years
Form and Function:
The beardie is a medium-sized dog with a long, lean, strongly made body, which gives the impression of both strength and agility. Its gait is supple and powerful, with good reach and drive. The ability to make sharp turns, quick starts and sudden stops is essential in a sheep-herding breed, and the beardie must be able to keep this activity up for a long period of time under all conditions. Its coat is double with a soft, furry undercoat. The outer coat is flat, harsh and fairly straight; it is sufficient to protect the dog but not so much as to obscure the dog's lines. The beardie's expression is bright and inquiring.
Beauceron:
AKC Ranking: n/a
Family: Herding
Area of Origin: France
Date of Origin: 1500s
Original Function: Herder, guardian
Today's Function: Herder, guardian, police
Avg Size of male: Height: 25.5 - 27.5 Weight: 65 - 85
Avg Size of Female: Height: 24.5 - 26.5 Weight: 65 - 85
Other Name: Berger de Beauce, Bas-Rouge
History:
The Beauceron is an entirely French breed, dating back as far as the late 1500s. It originated in the plains area surrounding Paris known as La Beauce. The largest of the French sheepdogs, it was used as a general-purpose farm dog, driving and protecting sheep and sometimes, cattle, and guarding its family. In 1863, two types of plains flock-herding and guarding dogs were differentiated: the long-coated Berger de Brie (Briard) and the short-coated Berger de Beauce (Beauceron). The Societe Centrale Canine registered the first Berger de Beauce in 1893, and the first breed club was formed in 1922. Well known as the preferred herding dog in France, the breed remained virtually unknown outside of France. The French army employed Beaucerons as messenger dogs on the front lines during both world wars. The breed's extraordinary ability to follow directions, follow trails, and detect mines still makes them a respected military and police dog. They also serve their families as protection dogs. In the 1960s, a concerted effort was made to preserve the qualities of native French breeds, and since that time, the Beauceron?s popularity in France and elsewhere has grown. In 1980, the Beauceron Club of America formed, and, in 2001, the AKC admitted the Beauceron into the Miscellaneous class. They are making their presence felt by excelling in obedience, tracking, agility, Schuzthund and of course, herding.
Temperament:
Beaucerons are uncannily intelligent and adept at any task involving learning, memory, and reasoning. They are courageous and calm, and make reliable, thoughtful guardians. This is an extremely loyal breed that is eager to please its family; however, if not properly trained, the Beauceron can run the family. Beaucerons are patient with children, but can be overwhelming to them or try to herd them. They may be wary of strangers and do not take to unfamiliar dogs. They can get along with other family dogs and pets.
Upkeep:
This is a dog with an active mind and athletic body, and it needs mental and physical exercise every day. Without adequate stimulation, the Beauceron can become bored and destructive. Don't get a Beauceron unless you commit to taking time to train and exercise it regularly. It is very much a family dog and should not be relegated to a kennel, although it should spend time outdoors every day. Coat care is minimal, consisting of brushing once a week or so.
Health:
• Major concerns: none
• Minor concerns: CHD, gastric torsion
• Occasionally seen: none
• Suggested tests: hip
• Life span: 10 - 12 years
Form and Function:
The Beauceron is not a dog of extremes, but is a solid, balanced dog as befitting a true multipurpose dog ready to do a long day's work. Its body is powerful yet agile, its jaws strong, its gait fluid, effortless, and ground covering. The head is not held high when moving, but is lowered to the level of the back, as is typical of herding dogs. Its outer coat is straight, dense, and coarse, of medium length; this, combined with a dense undercoat, offers weather-resistant protection. An unusual trait is the presence of double dewclaws on the hindlegs, which seem to be a French tradition for herding and flock dogs. Although they serve no function, they were perhaps at one time associated with the best herders, and are now a breed trademark.
Belgian Malinois:
AKC Ranking: 96
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: Belgium
Date of Origin: 1800s
Original Function: stock herding
Today's Function: security, police, contraband detection, assistance, herding trials, shutzhund
Avg Size of male: Height: 24-26 Weight: 60-65
Avg Size of Female: Height: 22-24 Weight: 60-65
Other Name: Malinois, chien de berger Belge
History:
The Belgian sheep-herding breeds, collectively known as chiens de berger Belge, shared their early history as general-purpose shepherds and guard dogs of Belgium. As working dogs, they were bred for ability rather than esthetics, and no careful records were kept. Thus, when dog shows became popular in the late 1800s, it was not clear if Belgium had any recognizable breeds with which they could tout their national pride. In 1891, professor Adolphe Reul was asked to study the native dogs to see if they could be sorted into distinct breeds. He found a group of similar dogs that differed only in coat type and color, all of which were grouped as Belgian shepherds. The shorthaired variety was developed in the area around Malines, and so became known as the Belgian Malinois. It remains the most popular of the Belgian shepherd breeds in its native land, but has had a rockier road in America. Between 1911 and World War II, the Malinois enjoyed a good deal of popularity in America. After the war, registrations plummeted, and it was rare to find a Malinois entered in competition. When the breeds were separated in 1959, Malinois registrations began to grow once again, but they still fell far behind the other Belgian breeds. More recently, the Malinois is becoming popular because of its reputation as one of the pre-eminent police dogs in the world, surpassing even the German shepherd in demand. Thus, even though it may not be seen in many homes or show rings, it is making its presence known as a keeper of the peace throughout the world.
Temperament:
Intense best describes the Belgian Malinois. This is a high-energy breed with a need for regular mental and physical stimulation. It is alert, smart and serious, an ideal watchdog and guard dog. It is aloof with strangers and can be aggressive toward other dogs and animals. Some can be domineering. When confined, it often runs in sweeping circles in an effort to stay on the move. It is protective of its home and family.
Upkeep:
The Malinois is a high-energy dog that needs a lot of exercise. Its needs cannot be met with a leisurely walk on leash. It instead needs a good jog or a vigorous play session. It especially enjoys herding. This breed can live outside in temperate to cool weather, but it would prefer to divide its time between house and yard. Its coat needs weekly brushing, more when shedding.
Health:
• Major concerns: none
• Minor concerns: CHD, epilepsy, skin allergies
• Occasionally seen: none
• Suggested tests: hip
• Life span: 10 – 12 years
Form and Function:
The Belgian Malinois is a sturdy dog of square proportion with moderately heavy, but oval, bone. It is elegant, with very proud head carriage. The overall impression is of power without bulkiness. The gait is smooth and easy, seemingly effortless rather than hard driving. Such a gait gives the impression of tirelessness. The Malinois has a tendency to run in a wide circle rather than a straight line. Its coat is fairly short, straight, and hard, with a dense undercoat. Its expression is intelligent and questioning.
Belgian Sheepdog:
AKC Ranking: 111
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: Belgium
Date of Origin: 1800s
Original Function: stock herding
Today's Function: herding trials, schutzhund
Avg Size of male: Height: 24-26 Weight: 55-75
Avg Size of Female: Height: 22-24 Weight: 40-60
Other Name: Groenendael, chien de berger Belge
History:
The Belgian sheepdog, Belgian Tervuren and Belgian Malinois began as three local variations of one breed, which was known as the Belgian shepherd or Continental shepherd. The dog that was heir to the name Belgian sheepdog was originally known as the Groenendael variation of the breed. Like all the Belgian shepherds, it was a working farm dog expected to both herd and guard. It differed from the others because it had a rather long, black coat. In 1910 these dogs were officially dubbed Groenendael after the kennel that had selectively bred the black dogs since 1893 (just after the Belgian shepherds were recognized as a breed). By this time, the breed had gained some repute as a police dog and was already employed in this capacity in America. In World War I, they continued to shine as sentry dogs, messengers and even draft dogs. It was here that they captured the attention of the public, and they soon enjoyed a fair amount of popularity after the war. In 1959, the three Belgian shepherd breeds were divided into separate breeds, with the Groenendael subsequently known as the Belgian sheepdog. With its shimmering black coat, it is the most striking of the Belgian breeds, and that fact, along with its versatile abilities, has won it many faithful supporters.
Temperament:
Ever watchful and on the move, the Belgian sheepdog glides in large circles. It is playful, alert, watchful and protective — a tough, independent and intense dog. It is aloof with strangers and can be aggressive toward other dogs and animals. Some can be domineering. It is intelligent and biddable, but independent. It is protective of its home and family.
Upkeep:
The Belgian sheepdog needs a good deal of exercise, either a good long jog or a long, strenuous play session. It needs room to move during the day and does best with access to a yard. Although it can live outdoors in temperate to cool climates, it is family-oriented and happier if it can share time in the house with its family. Its double coat needs brushing and combing twice weekly, more when shedding.
Health:
• Major concerns: none
• Minor concerns: epilepsy, skin allergies
• Occasionally seen: CHD
• Suggested tests: none
• Life span: 10 – 12 years
Form and Function:
The Belgian sheepdog is an elegant, square-proportioned dog that is alert and agile with proud carriage. Its bone is moderately heavy. As a dog expected to herd for long hours, its gait is smooth, tireless and effortless rather than driving. It has a tendency to move in a circle rather than a straight line. It has an extremely dense undercoat along with an outer coat of abundant guard hairs that are long, well-fitting and straight. Its expression is intelligent and questioning; its black coloration is striking.
Belgian Tervuren:
AKC Ranking: 108
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: Belgium
Date of Origin: 1800s
Original Function: stock herding
Today's Function: herding trials, schutzhund
Avg Size of male: Height: 24-26 Weight: 55-65
Avg Size of Female: Height: 22-24 Weight: 40-50
Other Name: Tervuren, chien de berger Belge
History:
The Belgian Tervuren is one of four Belgian shepherd breeds, all sharing the same origins but distinguished by different coat types and colors. They are the wire-haired Laekenois, the shorthaired Malinois, the long black-haired Groenendael and the long anything-but-black-haired Tervuren. All these herding – guard breeds were interbred before and after their recognition as one breed (the Belgian, or Continental, shepherd) in 1891. The Tervuren was named after the village of Tervuren, where one of the breed's earliest proponents lived. The Tervuren lagged behind the other shepherd breeds in popularity, perhaps hindered by its less flashy color and disagreements over exactly what colors were desirable. The first Tervuren was registered in America in 1918, but the breed's numbers remained so low that these dogs died out by the Depression. The Tervuren had to be almost re-created after World War II from longhaired offspring of Malinois parents. In 1959 the Belgian shepherd was divided into three breeds, and the Tervuren was on its own. The Tervuren has since captured the eye of many fanciers because it is the most elegant of the three breeds. It now enjoys moderate popularity. The Belgian Tervuren is a versatile dog and is used less in guard work, but more in herding, than are its Belgian shepherd counterparts.
Temperament:
Alert, watchful and energetic, the Tervuren is an active and dependable companion that functions best when given daily mental and physical exercise. It enjoys playing and running outside, and can be a well-mannered companion inside as long as it is given sufficient exercise. It is smart and obedient, but independent. It is aloof with strangers and can be aggressive toward other dogs and animals. It may nip at the heels of children in an attempt to herd them.
Upkeep:
The Tervuren needs strenuous activity, either a long walk or jog or an invigorating play or work session every day. It especially enjoys herding, which is the ideal exercise. It can live outside in temperate to cool climates, but it does best when allowed access to both a house and yard. Its double coat needs brushing and combing twice weekly, more often when shedding.
Health:
• Major concerns: none
• Minor concerns: epilepsy, skin allergies
• Occasionally seen: CHD
• Suggested tests: none
• Life span: 10 – 12 years
Form and Function:
This breed combines elegance and strength. It is square-proportioned and of medium bone. It is noteworthy for its exceedingly proud carriage. Its movement is lively, graceful and seemingly tireless, exhibiting an easy, effortless gait rather than a hard-driving action. It has a natural tendency to move in a circle rather than a straight line. It combines a dense undercoat with an outer coat consisting of abundant guard hairs that are long, well-fitting, straight and of medium harshness. Its expression is intelligent and questioning.
Border Collie:
AKC Ranking: 65
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: Great Britain
Date of Origin: 1800s
Original Function: sheep herding
Today's Function: sheep herding, herding trials, obedience
Avg Size of male: Height: 20-23 Weight: 30-45
Avg Size of Female: Height: 18-21 Weight: 30-45
Other Name: none
History:
The consummate sheepdog, the border collie is the result of over a century of breeding for function above all other criteria. In the 1800s, a variety of sheep-herding dogs with differing herding styles existed in Great Britain. Some were "fetching" dogs, dogs having an innate tendency to circle stock and bring them back toward the shepherd. Most of these were noisy dogs, tending to nip and bark as they performed their job. Boasts of the superiority of certain dogs were only natural; in 1873 the first actual sheepdog trial was held in order to settle some of these boasts. This contest would indirectly lead to the first border collies, by way of a dog named Hemp, who so distinguished himself in trials that he sired a great number of offspring. He herded not by barking and nipping, but by calmly staring at the sheep ("giving eye") intimidating them into moving. Hemp is considered to be the father of the border collie. In 1906, the first standard was drawn up, but unlike the physical standards of most breeds, this was a description of working ability, with no regard to physical appearance. This emphasis has shaped the breed ever since. In fact, the dogs were still referred to simply as sheepdogs; only in 1915 was the name border collie first recorded, in reference to the dog's origin around the English and Scottish borders. The border collie came to America and instantly dazzled serious shepherds with its quick herding and obedience capabilities. In fact, the latter opened a new door for the breed as one of the top competitive breeds in obedience trials. Having worked hard to gain the reputation of one of the smartest breeds of dogs, a breed unspoiled by cosmetic emphasis, many border collie fanciers actively fought AKC recognition as a show dog. In 1995, however, the AKC recognized the breed and herded it into the show ring.
Temperament:
The border collie is a bundle of mental and physical energy awaiting its chance to be unleashed on the world. Among the most intelligent and obedient of breeds, it is nonetheless a disastrous house dog if it is not given a challenging job every day. Given sufficient exercise, it is a dependable and loyal companion. It is intent on whatever it does and tends to stare, which can be unnerving to other animals. It also likes to chase other animals. It is reserved, even protective, toward strangers.
Upkeep:
Few dogs are as work-oriented as the border collie. This is a dog that needs a job. It needs a lot of physical and mental activity every day to satisfy its quest for work. It can live outdoors in temperate to cool climates, but it enjoys being with its family inside as well. This is a dog that cannot live in an apartment and that should preferably have ready access to a yard. Its coat needs brushing or combing twice weekly.
Health:
• Major concerns: CHD
• Minor concerns: PRA, lens luxation, CEA, PDA, OCD, PPM
• Occasionally seen: cerebellar abiotrophy, ceroid lipofuscinosis, deafness
• Suggested tests: hip, eye
• Life span: 10 – 14 years
Form and Function:
This is a medium dog of strong bone, slightly longer than it is tall, combining grace, agility, substance and stamina. Its trot is smooth, ground-covering and tireless, moving with stealth and strength. It is able to change speed and direction suddenly. Border collies must be able to display incredible agility even after working for long periods. The coat can be either smooth or rough. The smooth coat is short all over the body; the rough coat is medium to long in length and flat to slightly wavy in texture. Its expression is intelligent, alert, eager and full of interest, a reflection of its temperament.
Bouvier des Flandres:
AKC Ranking: 86
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: Belgium
Date of Origin: 1600s
Original Function: cattle herding
Today's Function: security, herding trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 24.5-27.5 Weight: 69-90
Avg Size of Female: Height: 23.5-26.5 Weight: 69-90
Other Name: Belgian cattle dog
History:
The bouvier des Flandres served farmers and cattle merchants in controlling cattle in the great farmlands of southwest Flanders and on the French northern plain. In fact, bouvier means "cowherd" or "oxherd" in French, although the dogs were formerly more often called vuilbaard (dirty beard) or koe hond (cow dog). Besides its main duty as a cattle drover, the bouvier was an all-around farm dog, functioning also as a livestock and farm guard and draft dog. As expected from a dog selected to perform a variety of tasks, these working dogs were of a variety of types, colors and even sizes. This wide variety also reflected the fact that this was a working dog, and breeding stock was chosen by ability, not pedigree or esthetics. The derivation of the breed is not documented but may have included mastiff, sheepdog and possibly even spaniel breeds. The first breed standard, drawn up in 1912, reflected this diversity of types and signaled a growing interest in the breed from dog fanciers. In the midst of the breed's rising popularity, most of the bouviers were lost in World War I — although some served as ambulance and messenger dogs during the war. One of the few survivors was of such superior quality that the breed was successfully revived through his progeny. This dog, Ch. Nic de Sottegem, can be found in virtually every modern bouvier pedigree. In 1922, a revised standard further defined the desirable bouvier type, and helped pave the way to a more homogeneous breed. When the first bouviers entered American show rings in the 1930s, they aroused much attention among dog fanciers. The breed has never become extremely popular, but it is well-known at dog shows and herding trials.
Temperament:
The bouvier is a steady, stalwart companion that is loyal, devoted, fearless and protective. Given daily exercise, it is calm and well-mannered indoors, but ready for an adventure in the great outdoors. It is independent and confident of its own judgment, yet biddable and willing to please. It can be domineering. It is reserved, even protective, toward strangers and can be aggressive with strange dogs. It is very good with children, although it may nip at heels in play.
Upkeep:
The bouvier des Flandres is not a breed that can be put aside until the mood strikes to play with it. It needs daily exercise and daily interaction, and a lot of both. It loves the chance to herd, but its requirements can also be met with a good jog, a very long walk or a vigorous play session. It can live outdoors in temperate to cool climates. It makes a good house dog, however, and would prefer access to both house and yard. Its harsh coat needs combing once or twice weekly, plus scissoring and shaping (clipping for pets and stripping for show dogs) every three months.
Health:
• Major concerns: CHD
• Minor concerns: gastric torsion
• Occasionally seen: entropion
• Suggested tests: hip
• Life span: 10 – 12 years
Form and Function:
This is a versatile breed able to perform a variety of functions, including cattle herder, draft dog and guard. As such, it combines great strength with agility and endurance. The bouvier is a compact, short-coupled dog, of square proportion and rugged appearance. Its gait is free, bold and proud. Its weatherproof coat is tousled and double, with a fine undercoat and a harsh, dry outer coat. It is trimmed (if necessary) to a length of about 2.5 inches. The head is accentuated by a beard and moustache, which adds to the dog's bold and alert expression.
Briard:
AKC Ranking: 108
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: France
Date of Origin: 1300s
Original Function: herding and guarding sheep
Today's Function: herding trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 23-27 Weight: 75-100
Avg Size of Female: Height: 22-25.5 Weight: 50-65
Other Name: berger de Brie
History:
The briard is one of four French sheepdog breeds, the others being the Beauceron, Picardy and Pyrenean. It is the oldest of the four breeds, with dogs resembling briards depicted in art from as long ago as the eighth century, and more definitive evidence by the 14th century. These early dogs were known as chien berger de Brie (shepherd dog of Brie), giving rise to the belief that the breed originated in the province of Brie; however, it may also be a corruption of chien d'Aubry, referring to the dog of Aubry de Montdidier, which saved his son's life (according to 14th-century legend). The name briard was not used until 1809. Originally employed as a herd protector, the briard was expected to tackle wolves if the need arose. After the French Revolution, which resulted in the country's land being divided into smaller sectors, it was important that the flocks be kept close to home, and the briard turned its talents to herding rather than guarding sheep. Only around 1900 did it become a show dog. The first breed standard was written in 1897, but it was replaced by another in 1909. Briards came to America very early, with evidence that both Lafayette and Thomas Jefferson brought some of the first specimens to the New World. These dogs did not have a lasting influence, however. After World War I, American soldiers brought some briards to America, and this was the beginning of the modern American briard. The breed's popularity has been modest in America, but it remains the most popular sheep herder in its native France.
Temperament:
Devoted and faithful, the briard is a loving and protective companion. It is independent, intelligent and self-assured, but it is also willing to please and eager to serve as a partner in adventure. It is reserved with strangers. It can be aggressive with other dogs and may nip at people's heels when playing. It tends to stay at home and may attempt to keep the family's children home as well!
Upkeep:
This is a dog that needs a good amount of activity and interaction every day. Its favorite exercise is the chance to herd, but it can also be satisfied with a long walk or jog, or a long play session coupled with a little training. The briard can live outside in temperate to cool climates, but is happiest if allowed access to both house and yard. Its long coat needs brushing or combing every other day or mats can form.
Health:
• Major concerns: gastric torsion, CHD
• Minor concerns: nightblindness
• Occasionally seen: PRA, heart problems
• Suggested tests: hip, eye, (cardiac)
• Life span: 10 – 12 years
Form and Function:
The briard is square or slightly longer than it is tall and powerful without being course; the overall appearance is one of handsome form. Like all good herding dogs, it combines strength, flexibility, agility and endurance with the ability to make abrupt turns, springing starts and sudden stops. Its movement has been described as "quicksilver," with supple, light strides that give the impression of gliding. Its undercoat is fine and tight, and its outer coat is coarse and dry, lying flat in long, slightly wavy locks. On the shoulders, the coat's length is 6 inches or more. The questioning, confident expression is enhanced by the longer eyebrows, as well as the long-appearing head.
Canaan Dog:
AKC Ranking: 146
Family: livestock, herding, primitive, Southern (pariah)
Area of Origin: Israel
Date of Origin: ancient times
Original Function: sentry, messenger, and assistance
Today's Function: herding trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 20-24 Weight: 45-55
Avg Size of Female: Height: 19-23 Weight: 35-45
Other Name: kalef K'naani
History:
Canaan dogs have evolved through hundreds, and perhaps thousands, of years of hardship. It is thought that the breed originated in the biblical land of Canaan and were known as kelev Kanani ("dog of Canaan"). When the Israelites were dispersed from their homeland by the Romans 2,000 years ago, most of the Israeli dogs were left to fend for themselves in the Sebulon coastal plain and Negev desert. Bedouins captured male puppies from the wild to raise as guard and livestock dogs. When the Israeli Defense Force tried to develop service dogs in the 1930s, the traditional European service breeds weren't able to adapt to the harsh climate. The Canaan dog owes its existence primarily to the efforts of one woman, Dr. Rudolphina Menzel. Her search for a more suitable dog led her to the native feral dogs. Several dogs were captured, and a breeding and training program was begun. The dogs quickly proved their worth, serving as sentry dogs, messengers, mine detectors, Red Cross helpers and even locators of wounded soldiers during World War II and as guide dogs for the blind after the war. Perhaps no other breed of dog has ever risen from feral roots to become such a useful and dedicated companion in so short a time. The first Canaan dog came to America in 1965. Not the flashiest of breeds, the Canaan's understated good looks may have made many people overlook it, despite its companionship credentials. Nonetheless, it slowly attracted admirers, and the AKC finally admitted it into the herding group in 1997. Now beginning a new era as a show dog, the increased exposure is sure to attract many more people looking for a loyal and hardy pet.
Temperament:
Not only does the Canaan dog excel as a herder, but it has also proven itself in a variety of tasks involving dependability and obedience. This is an intelligent, devoted, docile dog that is quite tractable and willing to please. It is aloof toward strangers and protective of its family. The Canaan dog is generally good with other household pets and dogs, but it may be aggressive toward strange dogs. It is a natural guardian and tends to bark a lot.
Upkeep:
Few breeds can claim as pure a working heritage as the Canaan dog. This dog will not be happy just sitting around. It needs lots of exercise and mental and physical challenges. These needs can be met with herding exercise, a long jog, or a strenuous game session along with a challenging training session. It can live outdoors in warm to cool climates, but it also makes an excellent house dog. Its coat needs brushing about once a week to remove dead hairs.
Health:
• Major concerns: none
• Minor concerns: none
• Occasionally seen: none
• Suggested tests: none
• Life span: 12 – 13 years
Form and Function:
The Canaan dog resembles none of the other herding breeds, arising from a completely different background. nonetheless, it shares similar traits needed in any dog that must herd for hours. It is a medium-sized, square-proportioned dog of moderate substance that combines strength, agility and endurance. It is not exaggerated in any way. Its movement is athletic and graceful, with a brisk, ground-covering trot. It is able to change directions instantly. It has a double coat, with a short, soft undercoat that varies in density according to climate, and a straight, flat-lying, harsh outer coat, with a slight ruff. This breed must adapt to great extremes in weather ranging from hot days to cold nights.
Collie:
AKC Ranking: 32
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: Scotland
Date of Origin: 1800s
Original Function: sheep herding
Today's Function: herding trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 24-26 Weight: 60-75
Avg Size of Female: Height: 22-24 Weight: 60-65
Other Name: Scottish collie
History:
The derivation of the collie is as obscure as the derivation of its name. One theory of the breed's origins is that it was derived from the same rootstock as the border collie. One theory of the name's origin is that it was derived from a Gaelic word meaning useful, which certainly described the useful farm or stock dogs valued by the Celts who first settled on the British Isles. Although sheep herding and guarding are some of the most ancient of canine services, evidence of the collie dates only from about 1800. Both rough- and smooth-coated "Scotch" collies existed by that time, but they apparently were derived from different crosses. The rough-coated dogs were characteristically smaller and broader headed, and usually black or black and white. As the breed caught the interest of dog fanciers, both rough- and smooth-coated collies became taller and more refined. The rough-coated collie was especially influenced by the progeny of a dog named "old cockie," born in 1867 and thought to be responsible not only for setting type but also for introducing the sable color. Around this same time, Queen Victoria became enthusiastic about the breed; under her sponsorship, its popularity grew not only with shepherds appreciative of its working value but also with members of the upper class, who were enamored of its beauty. By 1886 a standard was drawn up that still describes the breed as it is today. Meanwhile, as sheep herding became more important in America, settlers brought collies with them to the New World. In 1878, Queen Victoria once again put the breed in the limelight by entering two collies in the Westminster Dog Show. This provided the impetus for America's social elite to join the collie clan, and soon the collie could be found in some of the most prestigious estates in America. Later the collie found a champion in Albert Payson Terhune, whose stories about collies heightened their popularity with people from all walks of life. The most famous collie of all, the te
Temperament:
The collie is gentle and devoted, a mild-mannered friend to all. It is a dog with a working heritage, and it needs daily mental and physical exercise or it can become frustrated. It is sensitive, intelligent and willing to please, although it is sometimes a bit stubborn. It can nip at heels in play. Some may bark a lot.
Upkeep:
A good walk or jog on leash or a fun play session is needed every day. Herding is an excellent exercise. The collie can live outdoors in temperate to cool climates, but it is such a family-oriented dog that it is far happier indoors. The coat of the smooth variety needs minimal care; the coat of the rough variety needs brushing or combing every other day, more when shedding.
Health:
• Major concerns: CEA
• Minor concerns: distichiasis, pyotraumatic dermatitis
• Occasionally seen: PDA, deafness, cerebellar abiotrophy (Rough)
• Suggested tests: eye, (cardiac), (hearing)
• Life span: 8 – 12 years
• Note: often sensitive to ivermectin. Merles should not be bred to merles because homozygous merle is lethal or detrimental to health.
Form and Function:
The collie is an active, lithe, strong dog that combines strength, speed and grace. Its gait suggests effortless speed as well as the ability to change speed and direction instantly, as required in herding dogs. The coat can be of two types, both with a soft, abundant undercoat. The outer coat of the smooth variety is short, hard and flat; that of the rough variety is straight, harsh, abundant and long, particularly on the mane and ruff. The collie's expression is an important hallmark of the breed, and depends upon the shape and balance of the skull and muzzle, as well as the characteristics of the eyes and ears. It should be bright, alert and intelligent — traits accentuated by a fairly refined head.
German Shepherd:
AKC Ranking: 4
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: Germany
Date of Origin: 1800s
Original Function: sheep herding, guarding, police dog
Today's Function: police, contraband detection, assistance, herding trials, schutzhund
Avg Size of male: Height: 24-26 Weight: 75-95
Avg Size of Female: Height: 22-24 Weight: 75-95
Other Name: Alsatian, Deutscher schaferhund
History:
Despite an outward appearance slightly resembling a wolf, the German shepherd dog is a fairly recently developed breed and, contrary to namve beliefs, it is no more closely related to the wolf than any other breed of dog. The breed is the result of a conscious effort to produce the ideal shepherd, capable of herding and guarding its flocks. Perhaps never in the history of any breed has such concerted effort been put into improving a dog, mostly due to the formation in 1899 of the Verein fur Deutsche Scharferhunde SV, an organization devoted to overseeing the breeding of the German shepherd. Breeders sought to develop not only a herding dog but also one that could excel at jobs requiring courage, athleticism and intelligence. In short order, the German shepherd had proved itself a more than capable police dog, and subsequent breeding strove to perfect its abilities as an intelligent and fearless companion and guardian. During World War I, it was the obvious choice for a war sentry. At the same time, the AKC changed the breed's name from German sheepdog to shepherd dog, and Britain changed it to Alsatian wolf dog, both attempts to dissociate the dog from its unpopular German roots. The wolf dog was later dropped as it caused many people to fear the breed. In 1931, the AKC restored the breed's name to German shepherd dog. The greatest boon to the shepherd's popularity came in the form of two dogs, both movie stars: Strongheart and Rin Tin Tin. The German shepherd held the number-one spot in American popularity for many years. Although presently it has dropped from the top spot, the German shepherd remains as one of the most versatile dogs ever created, serving as a police dog, war dog, guide dog, search-and-rescue dog, narcotics- or explosives-detecting dog, show dog, guard dog, pet — and even shepherd.
Temperament:
Among the most intelligent of breeds, the German shepherd dog is so intent on its mission — whatever that may be — that it is virtually unsurpassed in working versatility. It is utterly devoted and faithful. Aloof and suspicious toward strangers, it is protective of its home and family. It can be domineering. It can be aggressive toward other dogs, but it is usually good with other pets.
Upkeep:
This breed needs daily mental and physical challenges. It enjoys a good exercise session as well as learning session. It can live outside in temperate to cool climates, but it is family-oriented and does equally well as a house dog. Its coat needs brushing one or two times weekly.
Health:
• Major concerns: CHD, elbow dysplasia
• Minor concerns: panosteitis, vWD, progressive posterior paresis, cauda equina, pyotraumatic dermatitis, skin allergies, malignant neoplasms, pannus, cataract, gastric torsion, perianal fistulas, cardiomyopathy
• Occasionally seen: pancreatic insufficiency
• Suggested tests: hip, elbow, eye (blood)
• Life span: 10 – 12 years
• Note: GSDs are especially susceptible to a potentially fatal systemic fungal infection from Aspergillus.
Form and Function:
The German shepherd dog has an outline of smooth curves on a body that is longer than it is tall. It is strong, agile and substantial. Its gait is exceptionally outreaching and elastic, covering the ground in great strides. It has a double coat, with the outer coat consisting of dense, straight or slightly wavy, harsh, close lying hair of medium length.
Polish Lowland Sheepdog:
AKC Ranking: 135
Family: Livestock, Herding
Area of Origin: Poland
Date of Origin: Ancient times
Original Function: Sheep herding
Today's Function: Sheep herding, companion
Avg Size of male: Height: 18 - 20 Weight: 30 - 35
Avg Size of Female: Height: 17 - 19 Weight: 30 - 35
Other Name: Polski Owczarek Nizinny, PON
History:
The Polish Lowland Sheepdog is known in much of the world as the Polski Owczarek Nizinny (pronounced "pole-ski off-chair-ick na-gin-nee"), and even in America it goes by its nickname, the PON. The breed's origins probably reach back to Central Asia from one or more Tibetan breeds, such as the Tibetan Terrier, which were probably introduced to Eastern Europe by Tibetan traders. The long-coated Tibetan dogs were likely interbred with corded-coated Hungarian sheepdogs introduced by the Huns in the fourth century. While large flock-guarding dogs staved off large predators, the smaller PONs worked with shepherds to move and control sheep, and also kept watch against intruders. Unlike larger dogs, they didn't scare the sheep and they could work all day. They worked on the Polish lowlands for centuries until interest in purebred dogs and livestock swept through Europe in the late 1800s and early 1900s. This, combined with Polish national pride following World War I, created interest in promoting and selectively breeding the PON. Several PONs left the plains to live and work on large estates. In 1924, PONs were shown at a Warsaw poultry and dog show. PONs breeders were in the midst of starting a registry when Germany invaded Poland in 1939. Most dogs had to be abandoned, but legend has it that a Warsaw PON named Psyche was valued for her ability to predict incoming bombs, alerting people to take cover in shelters. Only about 150 PONs remained after World War II, but several fanciers sought to reconstitute the breed. The first PONs were registered with the Polish Kennel Club in 1957. A PON named Smok was influential in modeling the breed standard, which was approved in 1959. PONs were exhibited at the World Dog Show in 1965, exposing them to dog fanciers from around the world. In 1987eight fanciers formed the American Polski Owczarek Nizinny Club. In 2001, the PON was admitted to the AKC under the English translation of its name, Polish Lowland Sheepdog.
Temperament:
Lively and loyal, the PON has been shaped by centuries of work as a shepherd. This is a territorial breed that is often wary of strangers; however, to those it knows it is very affectionate. A PON's bark is one of its best friends, and the typical PON shows it off often. The PON has an independent and even willful side. It learns quickly, but sees no use in following commands blindly. Despite its shaggy dog look, the PON can be a serious dog. PONs are good with considerate children, most other pets, and most other dogs, although if challenged by a dog, they will hold their own.
Upkeep:
The PON is not a cuddly overgrown lapdog, but a serious worker that needs a job to be satisfied. This dog needs to exercise its body and mind daily. It flourishes when allowed to herd or learn agility. The PON does not accept extended confinement, but does best living inside and working and playing outside. Its coat needs considerable care, preferably brushing every couple of days.
Health:
• Major concerns: none
• Minor concerns: none
• Occasionally seen: none
• Suggested tests: hip, eye
• Life span: 10-14 years
Form and Function:
The PON is a cobby, medium-sized dog, slightly longer than tall, giving it great agility. It is strong and muscular, enabling it to control livestock. It has a fluid gait, with long stride, allowing it to trot effortlessly for hours. It is inclined to amble, which can act as a reconnaissance, energy-efficient gait. Toeing in is considered natural. The coat is long, dense, shaggy, and double, providing great protection against the elements. The PON is shown naturally, without scissoring.
Puli:
AKC Ranking: 129
Family: livestock, herding, gundog
Area of Origin: Hungary
Date of Origin: Middle Ages
Original Function: sheep herding
Today's Function: herding trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 17 Weight: 25-35
Avg Size of Female: Height: 16 Weight: 25-35
Other Name: Hungarian puli, Hungarian water dog
History:
Around the 9th century, the Magyar tribes came from the eastern Urals to occupy the central Danube area, intermingling with Turkish people along the way. They brought with them various sheepdogs, including the forebear of the modern puli. The puli's resemblance in body structure to the Tibetan spaniel has led some to surmise that the latter may have played a role in the puli's development. Whatever the origin, the small dogs were agile sheep herders, able even to turn a sheep by jumping on its back. The black color was important so that it could be easily spotted by the shepherd among the sheep. Thus, the Magyar's larger dogs were probably used as nighttime guards, and the small black dogs as daytime herders. After the decimation of Hungary by invaders in the 16th century, the country was repopulated by people, sheep and dogs from western Europe. These dogs interbred with the native pulik to produce the puli, and then the puli and pumi were interbred to such an extent that the original puli breed was nearly lost. In the early 1900s, an effort began to resurrect the puli; the first standard was written in 1925. Around that time, pulik in Hungary varied greatly in height from large "police" through medium "working" to small "dwarf" sizes. The medium-sized dogs were most representative of the traditional herding puli and were established as the desired size. In 1935, the U.S. Department of Agriculture imported several pulik in an effort to improve herding dogs in America. This effort was thwarted by war, but the breed's working ability became known in America, and by 1936 the AKC recognized the puli. The breed's fame spread farther throughout Europe as a result of Hungarians fleeing the war, bringing their dogs with them. The modern puli remains an adept herder, but it enjoys only modest popularity as a pet or show dog.
Temperament:
A mop on springs, the puli is full of bouncing energy. It is busy and curious and needs daily exercise. This smart dog is also headstrong and tough. It can be aggressive toward other dogs. Alert and watchful, it is also protective of its family. It barks a lot.
Upkeep:
This is an energetic breed on the lookout for a job, preferably something to herd. It can be satisfied with a good walk or jog, or a lively game and training session, however. It can live outdoors in temperate to cool climates, but it also makes an excellent house dog. Its coat can hold debris. Its nonshedding coat can be brushed or corded; if brushed, it needs brushing every one to two days. If corded, the cords must be regularly separated because the coat tends to hold dirt; bathing is time consuming and drying takes as much as one day. Pets can be clipped, but then part of the breed's unique appeal is lost.
Health:
• Major concerns: CHD
• Minor concerns: none
• Occasionally seen: PRA
• Suggested tests: hip, eye
• Life span: 12 – 16 years
Form and Function:
The puli is a compact dog of square proportion and medium bone. Its gait at a trot is quick stepping, but neither far reaching nor mincing. It is of utmost importance that the puli be able to change directions instantly, and it is quick, agile and even acrobatic. Its weatherproof coat consists of a soft, wooly, dense undercoat and a wavy or curly outer coat. This coat will form round or flattened cords, but it may also be brushed out.
Shetland Sheepdog:
AKC Ranking: 17
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: Scotland (Shetland Islands)
Date of Origin: 1800s
Original Function: sheep herding
Today's Function: sheep herding, herding trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 13-16 Weight: 20
Avg Size of Female: Height: 13-16 Weight: 20
Other Name: none
History:
The ancestors of the Shetland sheepdog were the herding dogs of Scotland that also provided the rootstock for the collie and border collie. Some of these dogs were quite small, measuring only about 18 inches in height. The Shetland sheepdog almost certainly is derived from these early collie type dogs, which then were further developed on the Shetland Islands. Some Iceland dogs may have also played a role, and perhaps even a black and tan King Charles spaniel. The paucity of vegetation favored smaller livestock, and the animals needed to herd them were proportionately smaller. In a land with few fences, an adept herder was essential to keep livestock away from cultivated land. As all-around farm dogs, they herded not only sheep but also ponies and chickens. In some remote areas, it was customary to keep all animals in the family's home building during winter, and the amiable herding dog no doubt worked its way right into the family part of the home. Because of its isolation from the rest of the world, the breed was able to breed true in a comparatively short time. The British naval fleet used to frequent the islands for maneuvers and often bought puppies to take home to England. Early dogs were referred to as "toonie dogs" (toon being the local Shetland word for farm), but they were initially shown (around 1906) as Shetland collies. Collie fanciers objected to the name, so it was changed to Shetland sheepdog. The breed is far more often referred to by its nickname of "Sheltie," however. In the early years in England, breeders often discreetly crossed Shelties with rough-coated collies in an attempt to improve on their collie characteristics. This practice led to oversized Shelties, however, and has long since stopped. Following the immense popularity of the collie, the Sheltie became the answer to the family wanting a loyal, striking pet of smaller size, and it is one of the most popular breeds in the world.
Temperament:
The Shetland sheepdog is extremely bright, sensitive and willing to please. This combination makes for a dog that is very obedient, quick to learn and utterly devoted to its family. It is not only gentle, playful, amiable and companionable, but also excellent with children, although it can nip at heels in play. It is reserved and often timid toward strangers. It barks a lot.
Upkeep:
The Sheltie is energetic, but its exercise needs can be met with a good walk, short jog or active game and training session. It can live outdoors in a temperate climate, but it is strongly advised that the Sheltie be a house dog. It is too attached to its family to do well separated from them. Its thick coat needs brushing or combing every other day.
Health:
• Major concerns: dermatomyositis
• Minor concerns: CEA, PRA, trichiasis, cataract, CHD, hemophilia, Legg – Perthes, patellar luxation
• Occasionally seen: PDA, deafness, epilepsy, vWD
• Suggested tests: eye, hip, DNA for vWD
• Life span: 12 – 14 years
• Note: may be sensitive to ivermectin. Merles should not be bred to merles because homozygous merle is lethal or detrimental to health.
Form and Function:
The Shetland sheepdog is a small, agile dog, longer than it is tall. Its gait is smooth, effortless and ground-covering, imparting good agility, speed and endurance essential in a herding dog. It has a double coat, with a short, dense undercoat and a long, straight, harsh outer coat. The hair of the mane, frill and tail is abundant. Its expression is gentle, intelligent and questioning. Although it resembles a rough collie in miniature, subtle differences distinguish the breeds.
Welsh Corgi-Cardigan:
AKC Ranking: 81
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: Wales
Date of Origin: ancient times
Original Function: cattle driving
Today's Function: cattle driving, herding trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 10.5-12.5 Weight: 30-38
Avg Size of Female: Height: 10.5-12.5 Weight: 25-34
Other Name: none
History:
One of the earliest breeds to come to the British Isles, the Cardigan Welsh corgi was brought from central Europe to Cardiganshire, South Wales, centuries ago. Its derivation is unknown, though it may have been influenced by the extinct English turn-spit dog, a short-legged, low-bodied dog used to turn spits in kitchens. Initially used as a family protector and even a helper in the hunt, it was only later that the corgi found its true forte. In a time when the land available to tenant farmers was determined by how much acreage their cattle occupied, it was to the farmer's advantage to have scattered, far-ranging stock. Thus, a dog that would drive, rather than herd, the cattle was an invaluable aid, and the corgi stepped right into this role, nipping at the cattle's heels and ducking their kicks. In fact the word corgi is probably derived from cor (to gather) and gi (dog). The original corgis were supposed to measure a Welsh yard (slightly longer than an English yard) from nose to tail tip, and in parts of Cardiganshire the breed was called the yard-long dog or ci-llathed. When the Crown lands were later divided, sold and fenced, the need for drovers was lost, and the corgi lost its job. Kept by some as a guard and companion, nonetheless, it became a luxury that few could afford, and it became perilously close to extinction. Crosses with other breeds had been tried, but most were not particularly successful. The exception was the cross with the brindle herder — present-day Cardigans are the products of this slight herder influence. The first Cardigans were shown around 1925. Until 1934, the Cardigan and Pembroke Welsh corgis were considered one breed, and interbreeding between the two was common. The first Cardigans came to America in 1931, and the AKC recognized the breed in 1935. For some unknown reason, the Cardigan has never enjoyed the popularity of the Pembroke corgi and remains only modestly popular.
Temperament:
Fun-loving and high-spirited, yet easygoing, the Cardigan is a devoted and amusing companion. This is a hardy breed, capable of a day dodging kicks, so it is agile and tireless. At home it is well-mannered but inclined to bark. It tends to be reserved with strangers and can be scrappy with other dogs.
Upkeep:
The Cardigan needs a surprising amount of exercise for its size. Its needs can best be met with a herding session, but a moderate walk or vigorous play session will also suffice. It can live outside in temperate to cool weather, but it is a very good house dog and best when it is allowed access to both house and yard. Its coat needs brushing once a week to remove dead hair.
Health:
• Major concerns: CHD
• Minor concerns: PRA
• Occasionally seen: urolithiasis, PRA
• Suggested tests: hip, (eye), (DNA test for PRA)
• Life span: 10 – 12 years
Form and Function:
The Cardigan is a low-set dog, approximately 1.8 times longer than it is tall, with moderately heavy bone. It is small but powerful — capable of the agility, speed and endurance necessary to drive cattle for extended periods. Its small size allowed it to duck under the cattle's hooves should they kick at it. Its gait is free, smooth, effortless and ground-covering. Its double coat consists of a soft thick undercoat and slightly harsh outer coat of medium length. Its expression is alert, gentle and watchful, yet friendly.
Welsh Corgi-Pembroke:
AKC Ranking: 24
Family: livestock, herding
Area of Origin: Wales
Date of Origin: 1110s
Original Function: cattle driving
Today's Function: cattle driving, herding trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 10-12 Weight: 27
Avg Size of Female: Height: 10-12 Weight: 25
Other Name: none
History:
The corgi was an essential helper to the farmers of South Wales. Although these little dogs specialized in herding cattle, nipping at their heels and then ducking under their kicking hooves, they were almost certainly also used in herding sheep and even Welsh ponies. Despite claims for the antiquity of the breed, it is difficult to trace its origins or even authenticate its existence in early times. A Welsh cattle dog is mentioned in a book of the 11th century, however. Although it certainly shares its past with the Cardigan Welsh corgi, the Pembroke was developed separately, in Pembrokeshire, Wales. As a hard-working dog, the corgi was out in the fields when many of the early dog shows were being held. Only in 1926 did a club form and the breed enter the show ring. The first exhibits were straight from the farm and aroused only modest attention. Breeders subsequently strove to improve upon the breed's inherent good looks and were rewarded with increased popularity. The obvious differences between the Pembroke and Cardigan were troublesome to judges — the Pembroke is smaller, with sharper features, a more foxlike expression and characteristically no tail. In 1934, the Cardigan and Pembroke corgis were divided into two separate breeds, after which the Pembroke soared in popularity. Its appeal was heightened when it became the favorite of King George VI and, subsequently, Queen Elizabeth II. By the 1960s, the Pembroke had become one of the most popular pet breeds all over the world, but especially in Britain. This popularity has since waned slightly, but far more Pembrokes can be found herding in back yards than in farmyards today.
Temperament:
Quick and quick-witted, the Pembroke Welsh corgi has an active mind and body. It needs daily physical and mental exercise to be at its best in the house. It is devoted and willing to please, fun-loving, amiable and companionable. It is very good with children, although it can nip at heels in play. It is usually reserved with strangers. Many bark a lot.
Upkeep:
The Pembroke loves to herd, and a daily herding session would be ideal to meet its exercise requirements. It can do fine without herding, however, as long as it gets a moderate walk on leash or a good play and training session off leash. It is physically able to live outdoors in temperate climates, but it is mentally far better suited to share its family's home and have access to a yard. Coat care consists only of brushing once a week to remove dead hairs.
Health:
• Major concerns: intervertebral disc disease, CHD
• Minor concerns: epilepsy
• Occasionally seen: vWD, skin fragility, PRA, lens luxation, urolithiasis
• Suggested tests: hip, eye, (blood)
• Life span: 11 – 13 years
Form and Function:
The Pembroke Welsh corgi is moderately long and low, and less heavily boned than the Cardigan Welsh corgi. Its movement is free and smooth, with good reach and drive. This is a breed that needs to be quick and agile, even after herding all day, in order to avoid the cattle's kicking hooves. It combines a weather-resistant undercoat of medium length with a coarser outer coat of slightly longer length. Its expression is intelligent and interested, foxy, but not sly.
Hound Group:
The hounds are one the oldest groups of dogs, aiding humans by pursuing and catching their quarry. The sighthounds pursue by sight and include the fast-running dogs of greyhound build, whereas the scenthounds pursue by scent and include the more solidly built dogs of general foxhound build. Some breeds hunt by both sight and scent, and a few breeds don't seem like hounds at all. Again, all hound breeds have in common the independent pursuit of mammalian quarry. As such, they traditionally could not wait for the hunter's direction; they led the way.
Afghan Hound:
AKC Ranking: 90
Family: sighthound, Southern (sighthound)
Area of Origin: Afghanistan
Date of Origin: ancient times
Original Function: coursing hare and gazelle
Today's Function: lure coursing
Avg Size of male: Height: 27 Weight: 60
Avg Size of Female: Height: 25 Weight: 50
Other Name: tazi, Baluchi hound
History:
With roots dating to the Egyptian pharaohs, the Afghan hound is an ancient breed derived from the group of Middle Eastern sighthounds. Despite such illustrious roots, most of the Afghan hound's development is the result of its use by nomadic tribes as a coursing hound capable of providing hare and gazelle meat for the pot. The dogs often hunted with the aid of falcons, which were trained to swoop at the quarry. Generations of hunting in the harsh mountainous terrain of Afghanistan produced a fast dog that also had a good deal of stamina, but most of all, had incredible leaping ability and nimbleness. Its long coat protected it from the cold climate. These dogs remained isolated for centuries, hidden in the impenetrable Afghanistan mountains. The first Afghan hound came to England in the early 1900s; at that time these dogs were called Persian greyhounds or Barukhzy hounds. These dogs were a diverse lot so a standard of perfection — modeled on Zardin, a particularly striking dog — that described the more elegant, racy dog of today was created. Popularity grew slowly, with the dog appealing mostly to the glamour set. Popularity in the show ring came faster, with the Afghan quickly becoming one of the most competitive and glamorous dogs in the rings. In the 1970s the Afghan became a fad breed with the public, but it has since dwindled in popularity.
Temperament:
Despite its glamorous reputation, the Afghan hound is a hunter at heart, bred to chase down game over rugged terrain. While it maintains its regal bearings inside, it needs a daily chance to stretch its legs in a safe area. Its worst trait is a reluctance to come when called. It will chase small animals outside; inside, it will coexist peacefully. Though gentle with children, it may not be playful and interactive enough with them. Described by some as "catlike," it is independent yet sensitive and not overly demonstrative. It is reserved with strangers; some can be timid. It has a gay, clownish side.
Upkeep:
The Afghan needs daily exertion, either in the form of a long walk followed by a short sprint, or preferably, a chance to run full speed in a safe, enclosed area. Although its coat might make it amenable to outdoor living in temperate areas, it needs a soft bed and is better suited as a house dog. The coat requires some commitment, especially when shedding the puppy coat; most adult coats need brushing or combing every two to three days.
Health:
• Major concerns: none
• Minor concerns: cataract
• Occasionally seen: necrotic myelopathy, CHD
• Suggested tests: (eye)
• Life span: 12 – 14 years
• Note: sensitive to anesthesia; prone to tail injuries
Form and Function:
The Afghan is built along greyhound-like lines, enabling it to execute a double-suspension gallop and run-down fleet game. The comparatively short back and steep pelvis helped it to leap great heights and to turn almost in place, essential attributes for coursing in rocky mountainous terrain. The large feet gave it a better foothold and were more resistant to injury on rough ground. The silky coat protected the dog from cold nights at high altitudes. The Afghan appears dignified and aloof, with an exotic expression and proud carriage. This dog's gait shows great elasticity and spring; the Afghan moves with its head and tail high.
American Foxhound:
AKC Ranking: 148
Family: scenthound
Area of Origin: United States
Date of Origin: 1600s
Original Function: trailing fox
Today's Function: trailing fox
Avg Size of male: Height: 22-25 Weight: 40-65
Avg Size of Female: Height: 21-24 Weight: 40-65
Other Name: none
History:
This most American of breeds dates back to 1650, with the first record of fox-chasing hounds arriving from England. By the 1700s, riding to the hounds had become extremely popular with the upper class; even George Washington found it a favorite pastime. Imports from England, France and Ireland helped shape the breed. Foxhound pedigrees have been recorded in America since 1850. Around this same time, the sport spread to the southern United States, particularly the mountains of Kentucky and Tennessee, and hunters there preferred a faster dog with the ability to start, chase and kill a fox alone, and also to give chase to deer. The dogs became more streamlined than their English counterparts. The dogs further developed into different strains, the most popular being the "Walker." This strain descends from a dog named Tennessee Lead, alleged to have been stolen from a deer chase by a dog trader, who subsequently sold him to George Washington Mauphin, who is sometimes called the father of the breed. His breeding of this fast-running foxhound produced some of the best running dogs ever seen. Dogs from that strain were subsequently called Walker hounds because the Walker brothers kept careful records of dogs produced from this strain. Other strains of foxhounds include Trigg, Goodman, July, Calhoun and Hudspeth. These dogs eventually became specialized as either running hounds or show hounds, with the former being even further specialized as competitive field trial hounds and pack hounds. The pack type is generally considered the prototypical foxhound. These dogs combine great speed, endurance and jumping ability with a strong nose and willingness to give chase as a pack member. The American foxhound was one of the earliest breeds to be registered by the AKC, although registrations have never been particularly high. The low AKC registration numbers belie the foxhound's popularity, however, because most foxhounds are kept in large packs by hunters with little interest in AK
Temperament:
Although by tradition the foxhound is not a house pet, it is actually well-mannered in the home. It gets along best with human or canine companionship. It is a tolerant, amiable and gentle dog, even though it is not very demonstrative. Most are reserved with strangers. It is first and foremost a hunter, ever ready to hit the trail. It needs daily exercise in a safe area. Once on a scent, it will follow gleefully, heedless of commands. This is a dog that likes the outdoors; it is not a city dog. It bays.
Upkeep:
The foxhound needs daily exercise, preferably in the form of a long walk or jog. If allowed to run off leash, it should only do so in a safe, enclosed area. Foxhounds traditionally live outside, although only with warm shelter and bedding and in temperate climates. They are highly sociable, however, and should never be expected to live alone. The coat is easily maintained, requiring only occasional brushing to remove dead hair.
Health:
• Major concerns: none
• Minor concerns: thrombocytopathy
• Occasionally seen: none
• Suggested tests: (blood)
• Life span: 10 – 13 years
Form and Function:
The American foxhound is slighter of bone and higher on leg than the English foxhound, with more rear angulation and arch over the loin. These attributes give it greater speed and agility for hunting over rough terrain. It has a melodious voice when on the trail. Its coat is hard and of medium length. Its expression is gentle and pleading.
Basenji:
AKC Ranking: 79
Family: sighthound, scenthound, primitive, Southern (pariah)
Area of Origin: Central Africa (Zaire and the Congo)
Date of Origin: ancient
Original Function: hunting small game
Today's Function: lure coursing
Avg Size of male: Height: 17 Weight: 24
Avg Size of Female: Height: 16 Weight: 22
Other Name: Congo dog, Congo terrier
History:
The basenji is among the most primitive of breeds, discovered on the African Congo with Pygmy hunters. Early explorers called the dogs after the tribes that owned them or the area in which they were found, such as Zande dogs or Congo terriers. The native tribes used the dogs (which often wore large bells around their necks) as pack hunters, driving game into nets. Early attempts to bring basenjis to England in the late 1800s and early 1900s were unsuccessful because the dogs all succumbed to distemper. In the 1930s, a few dogs were successfully brought back to England and became the foundation (along with subsequent imports from the Congo and Sudan) of the breed outside of Africa. The name basenji, or "bush thing," was chosen. The early imports attracted much attention, and soon after the basenji was brought to America. The breed's popularity as both a pet and show dog grew modestly but steadily. In the 1950s, a surge of popularity occurred as a result of a book and movie featuring a basenji. The 1980s saw two important but controversial events for the basenji in America. First, several basenjis were brought from Africa in an attempt to widen the gene pool and combat some widespread hereditary health problems; some of these dogs introduced the previously unrecognized brindle color into the breed. Second, the basenji was recognized by the American Sighthound Field Association as a sighthound and was allowed to compete in lure-coursing trials. Its body structure and hunting style had previously been deemed too unsighthound-like. The basenji has always been hard to categorize. It retains several primitive characteristics, most notably its lack of barking ability and its yearly, rather than twice yearly, estrus cycle.
Temperament:
Some consider the basenji to have terrier-like mannerisms because it is feisty for a hound. More often it is considered catlike in mannerisms: clever, inquisitive, stubborn, independent and reserved. Its hunting roots are very evident, as it loves to chase and trail. It needs regular mental and physical stimulation, lest it become frustrated and destructive. Basenjis may be barkless, but they are not mute. They do make a sort of yodel, howl and shriek — and occasionally bark, but just one or two "fox barks" at a time.
Upkeep:
The basenji is an active dog that needs daily mental and physical exercise. Its needs can be met by a long walk followed by a vigorous game, or by running freely in a safe, enclosed area. It can live outdoors only in warm climates and generally does best as an indoor dog with access to a yard. Coat care is minimal, consisting of only occasional brushing to remove dead hair.
Health:
• Major concerns: Fanconi syndrome, PRA, basenji enteropathy
• Minor concerns: PPM, PK
• Occasionally seen: CHD
• Suggested tests: eye, DNA test for PK, Fanconi urine test
• Life span: 12 – 14 years
Form and Function:
The basenji is square-proportioned and high on leg. It is far more slightly built and longer-legged than most other primitive breeds, giving it a good amount of speed and the ability to perform the double-suspension gallop. Its erect ears help it locate prey in thick bush and may act as heat dissipaters. Its short coat also aids in dealing with the hot climate of Africa.
Basset Hound:
AKC Ranking: 25
Family: scenthound
Area of Origin: France
Date of Origin: 1500s
Original Function: trailing rabbits and hare
Today's Function: trailing rabbits and hare, field trials, basset field trials
Avg Size of male: Height: <14 Weight: 40-60
Avg Size of Female: Height: <14 Weight: 40-60
Other Name: none
History:
The first mention of the basset dog is found in a 16th-century text about badger hunting. Dwarfed short-legged specimens occur in many breeds and have been known since ancient times, but it is difficult to know at what point such dogs were purposefully bred and which ones led to the present basset hound. The word basset is derived from the French word bas, which means "low thing or dwarf," so that definitive evidence of the breed may be hard to follow. Short-legged dogs were used by the French for hunting at a slower pace, but most of these dogs were dispersed, and their fates undocumented, during the French Revolution. The history becomes clearer after the revolution, when greater numbers of commoners took up hunting, often aided by guns. They needed a dog that they could follow on foot, but that still had great scenting ability and strong, heavy bone — in essence, a short-legged version of the pack hounds popular with the aristocracy. Because the basset could not pursue its quarry at speed, the quarry was less likely to be on the run and thus presented an easier target for the gunman. The dogs would hunt all mammals but were especially suited for rabbits and hares. Four different versions of short-legged hounds were created, with the basset Artesien Normand most closely resembling today's basset. In the late 1800s (and again in 1930), crosses with bloodhounds were made to increase size; the results were then tempered with subsequent crosses to the Artesien Normand. The first bassets were brought to England and America in the late 1800s, and interest in the breed grew gradually. By the mid-1900s, the basset's droll expression had won it a place in advertising and entertainment and in many new pet owners' hearts.
Temperament:
The basset hound is among the most good-natured and easygoing of breeds. It is amiable with dogs, other pets and children, although children must be cautioned not to put strain on its back with their games. It is calm inside, but it needs regular exercise to keep fit. It prefers to investigate slowly, and loves to sniff and trail. It is a talented and determined tracker, not easily dissuaded from its course. Because of this, it may get on a trail and follow it until it becomes lost. It tends to be stubborn and slow-moving. It has a loud bay that it uses when excited on the trail.
Upkeep:
The basset needs mild daily exercise, which can be satisfied by walking on leash or playing in the yard. It does best as a house dog with access to a yard. Its coat needs only minimal grooming, but its face may need regular cleaning around the mouth and wrinkles. Bassets tend to drool.
Health:
• Major concerns: foreleg lameness, OCD, entropion, ectropion, otitis
externa, intervertebral disc disease, glaucoma, vWD, CTP, gastric
torsion
• Minor concerns: foot cysts and infection
• Occasionally seen: patellar luxation
• Suggested tests: eye, blood
• Life span: 8 – 12 years
• Note: Obesity is a problem in the breed, especially because it
contributes to intervertebral disk disease.
Form and Function:
The basset's long, heavy body and short legs make it easy to follow on foot and give it an edge in dense cover. The basset hound has heavier bone, in proportion to its total size, than any other breed. Its thick, tight coat protects it from brambles without becoming caught in them. It is speculated that its long ears may stir up ground scent, and the wrinkles trap the scent around the face. The large muzzle gives ample room for the olfactory apparatus. Such room would not be available in a miniature dog; only a large dog with shortened legs can combine the short height with large muzzle size. The basset's movement is smooth and powerful; it tends to move with nose to the ground.
Beagle:
AKC Ranking: 3
Family: scenthound
Area of Origin: England
Date of Origin: 1300s
Original Function: trailing rabbits
Today's Function: trailing rabbits, field trials, contraband detection, beagle field trials.
Avg Size of male: Height: 13-15 Weight: 18-30
Avg Size of Female: Height: 13-15 Weight: 18-30
Other Name: English beagle
History:
By the 14th century, hare hunting had become a popular sport in England, and the dogs used were probably of beagle type. The origin of the name beagle may be from Old French words meaning "open throat" in reference to the breed's melodious bay, or from the Celtic, Old English or Old French words for "small." The word beagle was not used until 1475, however, but can then be found frequently in writings from the 16th century on. Hunters could follow these dogs on foot and could even carry one in a pocket if the need arose. By the 1800s, beagles existed in several sizes, but the smaller "pocket-size" dogs were particularly popular. These dogs measured only about 9 inches and often needed the hunter's assistance in crossing rough fields. One of the special appeals of the smaller beagles was that the hunt could be followed even by "ladies, the aged or the infirm," as they slowly followed the winding path of the hare. The first mention of the beagle in America was in 1642. Beagles were used in the South prior to the Civil War, but these dogs bore little resemblance to their English counterparts. After the war, English imports formed the basis of the modern American beagle. By the end of the 19th century, beagles were popular competitors in both field and conformation exhibitions. But the merry little scenthound did not stop there: It continued to become one of America's all-time favorite breeds, finding its special niche as a family pet.
Temperament:
One of the most amiable hounds, the beagle was bred as a pack hunter and needs companionship, whether human or canine. It loves to explore the outdoors and is an enthusiastic trailer. Given adequate exercise, it is a calm, tractable house pet. It is an excellent child's dog, gentle, incredibly tolerant and always ready to join in a game or an adventure. It is an independent breed, however, and may run off if a trail beckons. It barks and howls.
Upkeep:
The beagle needs daily exercise, either a long walk on leash or a romp in a safe area. It can live outdoors in temperate climates as long as it is given warm shelter and bedding. It is a social dog, however, and needs the companionship of either other dogs or its human family; as such, it is usually happiest if it can divide its time between the house and yard.
Health:
• Major concerns: intervertebral disc disease, CHD
• Minor concerns: glaucoma, epilepsy
• Occasionally seen: deafness, hemophilia A, cataracts
• Suggested tests: hip, (eye)
• Life span: 12 – 15 years
Form and Function:
The beagle should look like a miniature foxhound, solid for its size. The beagle's moderate size enables it to be followed on foot. It can also be carried to the hunt, and once there, can scurry around in thick underbrush. Its close hard coat protects it from underbrush. Its moderate build enables it to nimbly traverse rough terrain. The beagle's amiable personality allows it to get along with other dogs and to be a successful pack hunter. The beagle is noted for its melodious bay, which helps hunters locate it from a distance.
Black and Tan Coonhound:
AKC Ranking: 136
Family: scenthound
Area of Origin: United States
Date of Origin: 1700s
Original Function: hunting raccoons
Today's Function: hunting raccoons, night hunts
Avg Size of male: Height: 25-27 Weight: 55-75
Avg Size of Female: Height: 23-25 Weight: 55-75
Other Name: American black and tan coonhound
History:
A true American breed, the black and tan coonhound probably originated from crosses of the bloodhound and the foxhound, particularly the black and tan Virginia foxhound. The black and tan coonhound developed mostly in the Appalachian, Blue Ridge, Ozark and Smoky mountains, where these dogs were used to hunt raccoons and bears over fairly rugged terrain. They trailed in the fashion of their bloodhound ancestors, with nose to ground but at a somewhat swifter pace. Although they will trail any mammal, they specialize in raccoons and opossums, often trailing at night. When the quarry is treed, the dogs bay until the hunter arrives and shoots the animal. The AKC recognized the breed in 1945, but the black and tan has always been much more popular as a hunting dog than as a show dog or pet. Organized night hunts are extremely competitive and popular, and the United Kennel Club holds many bench shows for coonhounds only, in which black and tan coonhounds, blue tick coonhounds, redbone coonhounds, English coonhounds, Plott hounds and treeing Walkers compete.
Temperament:
Not the prototypical house dog, the black and tan coonhound, nonetheless, makes an exemplary pet. It is mellow, amiable, calm and unobtrusive indoors. Outdoors, its strong hunting instincts take over, and it can be difficult, if not impossible, to turn from a track after it starts trailing. As befitting a dog with its heritage, the black and tan is strong, independent and stubborn. It is gentle and tolerant with children, but it may be too independent to satisfy a playful child. It is reserved with strangers. It may bay and howl.
Upkeep:
The black and tan is a dog that can run for miles, although it is usually content with a moderate jog or long walk, with an occasional excursion into the field. It can wander if it catches a scent, so a safe area is mandatory. Its coat needs only occasional brushing. Most coonhounds drool to some extent, and the face may need regular wiping. The ears should also be checked regularly.
Health:
• Major concerns: CHD
• Minor concerns: ectropion
• Occasionally seen: hemophilia B
• Suggested tests: hip, (eye)
• Life span: 10 – 12 years
Form and Function:
The black and tan coonhound's moderate build gives it a blend of strength, speed and agility. It is square or slightly longer than tall, with moderate bone. Its long ears may help stir up ground scents. Its deep muzzle allows room for olfactory apparatus. Its deep voice enables the hunter to locate the dog when it has treed its quarry. Its hair is short but dense, providing an all-weather-protective coat. Its expression is alert, friendly and eager. Its stride is easy and graceful, with head and tail held high.
Bloodhound:
AKC Ranking: 49
Family: scenthound
Area of Origin: Belgium, England
Date of Origin: Middle Ages
Original Function: trailing
Today's Function: trailing humans, search and rescue
Avg Size of male: Height: 25-27 Weight: 90-110
Avg Size of Female: Height: 23-25 Weight: 80-100
Other Name: St. Hubert hound, chien St. Hubert
History:
The quintessential scenthound, the bloodhound traces its roots to ancient times. Its earliest ancestor may have been the black St. Hubert hound documented in Europe by the eighth century. William the Conqueror is credited with bringing these hounds to England in 1066. In the 12th century, many church dignitaries were interested in hunting with these dogs, and most monasteries kept carefully bred packs. So highly bred were these dogs that they came to be known as "blooded hounds," referring to their pure blood and noble breeding. Bloodhounds have been known in America since the mid-1800s. Even though they gained a reputation as slave trailers, many of those dogs were mixed scenthounds. The bloodhound has since proved itself to be one of the most useful breeds, using its unrivaled sense of smell to trail lost persons and criminals alike. After the person is located, the bloodhound's job is over because it is never inclined to attack. The bloodhound holds many trailing records (for both length and age of trail), and at one time it was the only breed of dog whose identifications were accepted in a court of law. Ironically, the bloodhound's name and bad press scared many people away from the breed because they believed stories that claimed the dogs trailed people out of a lust for blood. Nothing, of course, could be further from the truth. The breed is well-known to all but not particularly popular as a pet; it is a competitive show dog and unsurpassed working trailer, however.
Temperament:
For all its calm manners at home, the bloodhound is a tireless trailer once on the track. It is tough, stubborn and independent, yet it is so gentle and placid that it is extremely trustworthy around children — although it may not be playful enough for some children's needs. Nonetheless, it is not the lazy ol' hound dog portrayed in folklore but instead an active, playful companion. Although not the easiest breed to train for traditional obedience, it is exceptionally easy to train in tasks involving trailing. The bloodhound is reserved with strangers.
Upkeep:
As a hunting hound, the bloodhound needs a good deal of daily exercise. It was bred to trail through any hardship, and once on a trail it cannot be called off. It thus must be exercised in a safe area. The bloodhound drools a lot, so its facial wrinkles require daily cleaning; the ear tips drag in food and must also be kept clean. The ear canals also need regular cleaning for good health. Coat care is minimal, requiring only occasional brushing or wiping. Bloodhounds can live outside in temperate climates if they are given plenty of shelter and soft, warm bedding. Most do best as indoor/outdoor dogs; note, however, that this is not the breed for people obsessed with cleanliness in the house!
Health:
• Major concerns: ectropion, entropion, gastric torsion, otitis
externa, skin-fold dermatitis, CHD, elbow dysplasia
• Minor concerns: none
• Occasionally seen: none
• Suggested tests: hip, elbow, eye
• Life span: 7 – 10 years
Form and Function:
The bloodhound is a steadfast trailer, built for endurance rather than speed. Its skin is thin and loose, falling in wrinkles around its head and throat. Its long ears are supposed to stir up scents as the ears rake along the ground, and its profuse wrinkles are said to trap the odors around the face, although neither of these assertions has ever been scientifically verified. Its dense short coat protects it from being caught in brambles. Its docile temperament makes it nonthreatening to the humans it is sometimes now called upon to trail. Its gait is elastic and free, with tail held high. Its expression is noble and dignified.
Borzoi:
AKC Ranking: 93
Family: sighthound, Southern (sighthound)
Area of Origin: Russia
Date of Origin: Middle Ages
Original Function: coursing wolves
Today's Function: lure coursing
Avg Size of male: Height: >28 Weight: 75-105
Avg Size of Female: Height: >26 Weight: 60-85
Other Name: Russian wolfhound
History:
The borzoi (also known as the Russian wolfhound) was bred by the Russian aristocracy for hundreds of years. Coursing of hare for sport was known in Russia as early as the 13th century. In the 15th and 16th centuries, crosses of coursing hounds with bear hounds and with tall Russian sheepdogs were made to increase size and coat, both necessary for hunting wolves in the cold climate. The first standard was written in the 1600s in a book of borzoi hunting rules. Perhaps no other breed has ever been the focus of hunting on such a grand scale. Hundreds of serfs worked in the upkeep of the hounds on huge estates; the hunts themselves were grand events. One account describes the hounds, horses, beaters and hunters arriving in a train of over 40 cars, with another train bringing the grand duke and other nobility. Over 100borzois might partake in a hunt. Beaters and scenthounds initially trailed the wolf, followed by hunters on horseback. A pair or trio (consisting of two males and a female) of matched borzois were then unleashed when the wolf was sighted. The dogs would strike at the same time, forcing the wolf down and holding it until the hunter arrived to bind the wolf and then, often, set it free. By the 1800s, seven distinct subtypes of borzoi existed in Russia. Most present borzois descend from the Perchino type kept by Grand Duke Nicolai Nicolayevitch, and many of the early American imports came directly from the Perchino kennels. The Russian czar would often present borzois as gifts to visiting royalty. After the Russian Revolution, the days of the nobility were over and many borzois were killed. The fate of the breed was left in the hands of foreign royalty who had been given borzois and of a few remaining borzoi kennels. In America, the borzoi soon gained the reputation as the ultimate glamour dog, often seen at the sides of movie stars. Although only enjoying modest popularity as a pet, the breed remains a popular show dog, coursing dog and model.
Temperament:
A breed of quiet elegance, the borzoi exemplifies the well-mannered house dog. Outdoors, it races with wild abandon, and it will chase any small animal that runs. It is independent but very sensitive. Although generally good with children, it may not be playful enough to satisfy some children. Some can be timid. It is reserved with strangers.
Upkeep:
The borzoi needs the chance to exert itself daily. Although a long walk can satisfy most of its needs, it should be combined with a sprint in a large safe area. The coat, which is characteristically fuller on males, needs brushing or combing two or three times a week; at times it sheds a lot. Borzois can live outdoors in temperate climates as long as they have soft bedding and good shelter, but most do best as house dogs with access to a yard.
Health:
• Major concerns: gastric torsion
• Minor concerns: none
• Occasionally seen: none
• Suggested tests: none
• Life span: 10 – 12 years
• Note: sensitive to anesthesia
Form and Function:
The borzoi is a running hound capable of hunting large, fierce game in a very cold climate. As such, it retains the greyhound build necessary for running at great speed, but it is larger and stronger than the greyhound. Its jaws should be strong enough to hold down a wolf. The long, silky coat, which can be either flat, wavy or rather curly, provides protection against cold weather and snow. Borzois should possess elegance and grace, with flowing lines, whether standing or moving.
Dachshund - Standard:
AKC Ranking: 5
Family: scenthound, terrier, dachshund
Area of Origin: Germany
Date of Origin: 1500s
Original Function: flushing badgers
Today's Function: earthdog trials, dachshund field trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 8-9 Weight: 11-32
Avg Size of Female: Height: 8-9 Weight: 11-32
Other Name: teckel (miniature: zwergteckel)
History:
Definitive evidence of the dachshund as a breed isn't found until the 16th century, when reference was made to a "low crooked-legged" dog called a little burrow dog, dacksel or badger dog. The modern name dachshund means simply badger (dachs) dog (hund) in German. These tenacious hunters would follow their quarry, enter its burrow, pull it out and kill it. The dachshund comes in three coat varieties and two sizes. The original dachshunds were smooth-coated and arose from crosses of the bracke, a miniature French pointer, with the pinscher, a vermin killer of terrier type. Some 16th-century woodcuts provide evidence of longer-haired dachshund-like dogs. It is also possible that smooth dachshunds were later crossed with spaniels and the German stoberhund (a gun dog) to produce the longhaired variety. Mention is made of wire-coated dachshunds as early as 1797, but these dogs were not carefully bred and most modern wires were created around the end of the 19th century by crossing smooth dachshunds with German wirehaired pinschers and the Dandie Dinmont terrier. Each of these varieties was best suited for hunting under slightly different terrain and climatic conditions, but all were tough, strong dogs capable of dispatching badgers, foxes and other small mammals. Before 1900, very small dachshunds were kept for going to ground after small quarry, such as rabbits. Although some were simply runts, others were intentionally produced from crosses with toy terriers or pinschers. Most of the resulting miniatures lacked dachshund type, however. By 1910, stricter criteria were adopted for type, and each coat type was crossed with different breeds to achieve the best results: Smooths were bred with the miniature pinscher, longs with the papillon and wires with the miniature schnauzer. The dachshund has since found its real niche as a family pet, steadily rising in popularity to hold a place as one of the most popular hounds in America.
Temperament:
The dachshund is bold, curious and always up for adventure. It likes to hunt and dig, tracking by scent and going to ground after game. It is independent but will join in its family's activities whenever given a chance. It is good with children in its own family, but some may snap at strange children. Most are reserved with strangers. Some bark. The longhaired variety may be quieter and less terrier-like; the wires may be more outgoing. Some miniatures are more prone to be timid.
Upkeep:
Although dachsunds are active, their exercise requirements can be met with moderate walks on leash and games in the yard. The dachsund is amenable to city life or apartment living, but it is still a hunter at heart and enjoys forays into the wilds. Although it can live outdoors in warm weather, it does best when sleeping inside. The smooth coat requires minimal grooming. The long coat requires brushing or combing once or twice weekly and occasional trimming of stray hairs. The wire coat requires brushing or combing about once a week, with occasional trimming of stray hairs and stripping to remove dead hair twice a year.
Health:
• Major concerns: intervertebral disc disease
• Minor concerns: KCS
• Occasionally seen: diabetes, epilepsy, patellar luxation, deafness, gastric torsion
• Suggested tests: (eye)
• Life span: 12 – 14 years
• Note: Obesity is a major problem for the dachshund. Many dachshunds tend to be overweight, which in turn predisposes them to
intervertebral disc disease.
Form and Function:
The dachshund's long, low-slung body enables it to enter and move freely inside the confines of a den or tunnel, without sacrificing the necessary jaw and body strength to overcome its quarry. Its confidence, hunting instinct, keen nose and loud voice also are of significant aid in hunting underground. Agility, freedom of movement and endurance are necessary for the dachshund's work, and its gait is fluid and smooth. The dachshund has an energetic, pleasant expression. Each of the three coat varieties has special attributes: The smooth is short and shining, imparting some protection against the elements; the longhair is sleek, sometimes slightly wavy, providing somewhat more protection; the wire has tight, thick and hard hair with a finer undercoat, providing maximal protection.
Dachshund - Minature:
AKC Ranking: 5
Family: scenthound, terrier, dachshund
Area of Origin: Germany
Date of Origin: 1500s
Original Function: flushing badgers
Today's Function: earthdog trials, dachshund field trials
Avg Size of male: Height: 5-6 Weight: 1-11
Avg Size of Female: Height: 5-6 Weight: 1-11
Other Name: teckel (miniature: zwergteckel)
History:
Definitive evidence of the dachshund as a breed isn't found until the 16th century, when reference was made to a "low crooked-legged" dog called a little burrow dog, dacksel or badger dog. The modern name dachshund means simply badger (dachs) dog (hund) in German. These tenacious hunters would follow their quarry, enter its burrow, pull it out and kill it. The dachshund comes in three coat varieties and two sizes. The original dachshunds were smooth-coated and arose from crosses of the bracke, a miniature French pointer, with the pinscher, a vermin killer of terrier type. Some 16th-century woodcuts provide evidence of longer-haired dachshund-like dogs. It is also possible that smooth dachshunds were later crossed with spaniels and the German stoberhund (a gun dog) to produce the longhaired variety. Mention is made of wire-coated dachshunds as early as 1797, but these dogs were not carefully bred and most modern wires were created around the end of the 19th century by crossing smooth dachshunds with German wirehaired pinschers and the Dandie Dinmont terrier. Each of these varieties was best suited for hunting under slightly different terrain and climatic conditions, but all were tough, strong dogs capable of dispatching badgers, foxes and other small mammals. Before 1900, very small dachshunds were kept for going to ground after small quarry, such as rabbits. Although some were simply runts, others were intentionally produced from crosses with toy terriers or pinschers. Most of the resulting miniatures lacked dachshund type, however. By 1910, stricter criteria were adopted for type, and each coat type was crossed with different breeds to achieve the best results: Smooths were bred with the miniature pinscher, longs with the papillon and wires with the miniature schnauzer. The dachshund has since found its real niche as a family pet, steadily rising in popularity to hold a place as one of the most popular hounds in America.
Temperament:
The dachshund is bold, curious and always up for adventure. It likes to hunt and dig, tracking by scent and going to ground after game. It is independent but will join in its family's activities whenever given a chance. It is good with children in its own family, but some may snap at strange children. Most are reserved with strangers. Some bark. The longhaired variety may be quieter and less terrier-like; the wires may be more outgoing. Some miniatures are more prone to be timid.
Upkeep:
Although dachsunds are active, their exercise requirements can be met with moderate walks on leash and games in the yard. The dachsund is amenable to city life or apartment living, but it is still a hunter at heart and enjoys forays into the wilds. Although it can live outdoors in warm weather, it does best when sleeping inside. The smooth coat requires minimal grooming. The long coat requires brushing or combing once or twice weekly and occasional trimming of stray hairs. The wire coat requires brushing or combing about once a week, with occasional trimming of stray hairs and stripping to remove dead hair twice a year.
Health:
• Major concerns: intervertebral disc disease
• Minor concerns: KCS
• Occasionally seen: diabetes, epilepsy, patellar luxation, deafness,
gastric torsion
• Suggested tests: (eye)
• Life span: 12 – 14 years
• Note: Obesity is a major problem for the dachshund. Many dachshunds tend to be overweight, which in turn predisposes them to intervertebral disc disease.
Form and Function:
The dachshund's long, low-slung body enables it to enter and move freely inside the confines of a den or tunnel, without sacrificing the necessary jaw and body strength to overcome its quarry. Its confidence, hunting instinct, keen nose and loud voice also are of significant aid in hunting underground. Agility, freedom of movement and endurance are necessary for the dachshund's work, and its gait is fluid and smooth. The dachshund has an energetic, pleasant expression. Each of the three coat varieties has special attributes: The smooth is short and shining, imparting some protection against the elements; the longhair is sleek, sometimes slightly wavy, providing somewhat more protection; the wire has tight, thick and hard hair with a finer undercoat, providing maximal protection.
English Foxhound:
AKC Ranking: 151
Family: scenthound
Area of Origin: Great Britain
Date of Origin: 1700s
Original Function: trailing fox
Today's Function: trailing fox
Avg Size of male: Height: 23-27 Weight: 55-75
Avg Size of Female: Height: 23-27 Weight: 55-75
Other Name: foxhound
History:
Careful pedigrees have been kept of English foxhounds since the late 1700s — longer than for any other breed. Still, the exact origin of the breed is unknown. At the time of its inception, coursing the stag with greyhounds was still the favored dog sport of the gentry. Around 1750, a few men envisioned hunting foxes with swift horses and hounds. The hounds would have to be able to track a faint scent while on the run and to maintain their chase for hours. Fox hunting gained its appeal as a pastime of the wealthy, and packs of hounds were tended to by masters of foxhounds, who looked to the care and breeding of the dogs. Riding to the hounds became an affair steeped in ceremony, with the actual killing of the fox anticlimatic. As the esthetic aspects of the hunt increased in significance, care was taken to produce dogs that looked good not only individually but also as a pack. Thus, pack members would usually share the same coat coloration, most often the black saddle over a tan body with white points. Fox hunting became so popular that by the late 1800s, 140 packs (each with about 50 hounds) were registered in England alone. Foxhounds came to America in the 1700s, although in time a good percentage of these dogs were bred with other dogs to produce the American foxhound. The latter has since surpassed the English foxhound in popularity in America, although neither is popular as a pet or show dog. The English foxhound is still the first choice of hunters wishing a traditional outing on horseback, riding to the melodious bay of this most classic of breeds.
Temperament:
Traditionally a pack hound, the English foxhound nonetheless makes a stately house dog, as long as it has human or canine companionship. It gets along well with horses, dogs, children and other pets. It is an avid sniffer and trailer, however, and needs daily exercise in a safe area. It is a tolerant, amiable and gentle dog, even though it is not very demonstrative. Most are reserved with strangers. It is not well-suited for city life. It bays.
Upkeep:
The foxhound is an easygoing dog that nonetheless needs plenty of exercise. It is bred to run for miles, and it can make a good jogging companion on leash or a hiking companion in a safe area. It can live outdoors in temperate climates as long as it has warm shelter and bedding and, preferably, another foxhound. The coat needs only occasional brushing to remove dead hair.
Health:
• Major concerns: none
• Minor concerns: none
• Occasionally seen: CHD, renal disease
• Suggested tests: none
• Life span: 10 – 13 years
Form and Function:
The English foxhound is of powerful build, with large bone. The size of bone at the ankle is considered especially important. This build, along with comparatively straight angulation of the stifles, favors stamina over speed. The rich, deep voice is prized for the hunt. Many English foxhounds have "rounded" ears, in which about 1 =" are surgically removed from the end of the ear.
Greyhound:
AKC Ranking: 131
Family: sighthound, Southern (sighthound)
Area of Origin: Great Britain
Date of Origin: ancient times
Original Function: coursing hares
Today's Function: racing, lure coursing, open-field coursing
Avg Size of male: Height: 27-30 Weight: 65-70
Avg Size of Female: Height: 27-30 Weight: 60-65
Other Name: none
History:
One of the first types of dogs selectively bred by humans was the sighthound, a dog that could run after and catch game by outrunning it. The prototypical sighthound has always been the greyhound. Greyhound-like dogs have been depicted since ancient Egyptian, Greek and Roman times. The name greyhound may come from Graius, meaning "Greek," or from the Latin gradus, denoting "high grade." By the time of the Saxons, greyhounds were well-established in Britain and were valued both by commoners, for their ability to put food on the table, and by nobility, for the sport of the chase. In 1014 the Forest Laws prohibited all but nobility from keeping greyhounds near royal forests unless they had been "lamed"; these laws remained in effect for 400 years. Even when they were repealed, greyhounds remained the dogs of nobility because with the growing importance of agriculture and domestic animal food sources, the running dog was not economically advantageous. Instead, greyhounds were used for coursing hare for sport, and during the 1800s coursing became a consuming pastime of the upper class. Early American immigrants often brought greyhounds with them to the New World, where they proved adept at coursing on the open plains. When coursing was made available to the masses by staging it first in closed parks and then on tracks after a mechanical lure, the greyhound's fate was sealed. Track racing proved so popular that dogs were bred specifically for short bursts of speed, ultimately resulting in the fastest breed of dog. At the same time, greyhounds entered the show ring. The breed soon became divided into show and racing types, which were seldom interbred. In America, the greyhound is one of the least popular breeds according to AKC registrations of show stock. The National Greyhound Association registers many thousands of greyhounds annually; however, recently retired racers from NGA stock have become popular as pets.
Temperament:
Known as "the world's fastest couch potato," the greyhound is quiet, calm and extremely well-mannered indoors. They are good with other dogs, and with other pets if raised with them; outdoors, they tend to chase any small thing that moves. They are reserved with strangers, very sensitive and sometimes timid. Despite their independent nature, they are eager to please.
Upkeep:
The greyhound needs daily exercise, but it is a sprinter, not an endurance runner. Its needs can thus be met with a chance to run, or by a longer walk on leash. It loves to run and chase outdoors, and can easily run into danger at great speed unless exercised in a safe area. It is not generally amenable to living outdoors. Greyhounds relish creature comforts and must have soft bedding and warmth. The coat is extremely easy to care for, needing only occasional brushing to remove dead hair.
Health:
• Major concerns: none
• Minor concerns: esophageal achalasia, gastric torsion, osteosarcoma
• Occasionally seen: none
• Suggested tests: none
• Life span: 10 – 13 years
• Note: Racing injuries — especially toe, hock and muscle injuries — are common in retired NGA dogs. Both NGA and AKC greyhounds are sensitive to anesthesia and are prone to lacerations and tail-tip injuries.
Form and Function:
The ultimate running dog, the greyhound is built for speed. Its long legs and arched back enable it to contract and stretch maximally while executing the double-suspension gallop. It has tremendous muscle mass and light legs, further enhancing speed. The feet are long and narrow, giving maximum leverage. The long tail serves as a rudder and brake when running at high speed. The coat is short and smooth. Two types of greyhounds are available: AKC (show) and NGA (racing). Retired NGA greyhounds are smaller, sturdier and faster than show dogs and may be more inclined to chase small animals.
Harrier:
AKC Ranking: 149
Family: scenthound
Area of Origin: Great Britain
Date of Origin: Middle Ages
Original Function: trailing hares
Today's Function: trailing hare and fox
Avg Size of male: Height: 19-21 Weight: 45-60
Avg Size of Female: Height: 19-21 Weight: 35-45
Other Name: none
History:
The word harier was Norman for dog or hound, so it is difficult to unravel the ancient history of hounds in general. nonetheless, the harrier may be one of the older scenthounds still in existence today, with references dating from 13th-century England. They probably stem from the long-extinct Talbot and St. Hubert hounds, and perhaps the Brachet and later, the French basset. This lineage produced a dog that tracked hare by scent at a pace that enabled hunters to follow on foot. Thus, although harrier packs were kept by the gentry, poorer hunters without horses could also hunt with harriers, often combining the few dogs each individual had to form an impromptu pack. Smaller English foxhounds may have been bred with these dogs in the early 1800s to develop a longer-legged, faster dog also capable of running with mounted hunters. The harrier has been known in America since Colonial times. Despite its classic proportions and handy size, it has never been popular as a show dog or pet.
Temperament:
The harrier is somewhat more playful and outgoing than the foxhound, but not as much as the beagle. It is amiable, tolerant and good with children. Its first love is for the hunt, and it loves to sniff and trail. It needs daily exercise in a safe area. Most are reserved with strangers. It tends to bay.
Upkeep:
The harrier needs daily exercise, but its needs can be met with a long walk or jog and a vigorous game in the yard. It can live outdoors in temperate climates as long as it is given warm shelter and bedding. The coat is easily cared for, needing only occasional brushing to remove dead hair.
Health:
• Major concerns: none
• Minor concerns: none
• Occasionally seen: none
• Suggested tests: none
• Life span: 10 – 12 years
Form and Function:
The harrier is a smaller version of the English foxhound, more suited for hunting hares. It has large bone for its size, and is slightly longer than tall. It is a scenting pack hound and should be capable of running with other dogs, scenting its quarry and hunting tirelessly over any terrain for long periods. It has a gentle expression when relaxed and alert when aroused. The coat is short and hard.
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